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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 24 Feb 2017, 11:47 

Joined: 20 Aug 2012, 22:01
Posts: 447
Location: martinsburg, wv
didnt you relocated batteries from when you first bought it?

and i have a spare keeper washer. its double the thickness of the stock ones, so they wont break.



BigTerp wrote:
JoshKeller wrote:
only problem is, this tracker is .063 aluminum. Im not sure id want to touch it for fear of cracking/creasing/etc. and I dont see 5 mph from that damage. are you sure that the motor isnt just getting broken in and not as tight as when you first rebuilt it?

are you turning the same rpm as before?

if you buy my 75, ill knock 500 off it to keep it in the local family


This is what I'm afraid of as well.

Not sure on the motor being broken in and loosening up a bit. Certainly could be. RPM's are the same as before. When it was first rebuilt I was getting 26 up river by myself and no gear. Now by myself and minimal fishing gear up river I'm about 20-21. I'll tear the foot off and check the impeller and clearance before I take it back out. The hook on the transom is the only other thing I can think of that would be causing my issue.

Thanks, but I'm good on the motor for now.


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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 24 Feb 2017, 12:35 
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Joined: 20 Aug 2010, 14:46
Posts: 1705
Location: Halifax, Virginia
I had a stick wedge in my nozzle once. Guessing you already checked for something like that though.



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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 24 Feb 2017, 13:05 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
Posts: 1947
Location: Falling Waters, WV
JoshKeller wrote:
didnt you relocated batteries from when you first bought it?

and i have a spare keeper washer. its double the thickness of the stock ones, so they wont break.


No, I haven't changed anything since I first set it up.

I'm thinking it's the bottom condition and the little hook I have near the transom. The bottom certainly isn't as good as it was from day one.

I guess my foam could be waterlogged. I put in the blue sheets from Lowes when I rebuilt the boat 3-1/2 years ago. I do fill it up with water maybe twice a year to check for leaks. Not sure if that's enough for that foam to get waterlogged or not? I would think not. Other than that, it lives under a cover and stays dry.

Thanks on the washer. I went ahead and ordered that along with a few other spare parts to keep on hand from OBJ this morning.

We'll see how cleaning up the impeller does. I tried to polish it as well, but it's already in pretty good looking shape. I'm going to have it out soon with a buddy in the back to see how it does.



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BigTerp's Tracker Sportsman 16' build-------> viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774
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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 24 Feb 2017, 13:06 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
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Location: Falling Waters, WV
RiverBottomOutdoors wrote:
I had a stick wedge in my nozzle once. Guessing you already checked for something like that though.


I looked pretty good last night and the pump looks good. I'll have to double check though. Thanks.



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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 24 Feb 2017, 13:29 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
Posts: 1947
Location: Falling Waters, WV
What do you guys think of my liner condition?

Also, I sharpened my 3 blade stainless impeller from the top, not the bottom like OBJ suggests. Lil Blue Rude does it this way on 3 blade impellers (as well as others) and says they perform better. I have one blade that is needing more filing then the rest but don't want to take off too much material. How much filing is too much? Also, how "perfect" do the beveled edges need to be? Should I be trying to get them just like the OBJ diagram shows, or is close enough good? How do you guys polish your stainless impellers?



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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 24 Feb 2017, 21:30 

Joined: 13 Nov 2014, 08:01
Posts: 755
I'm not sure about OB jet pumps, but on my PWC pump, the clearance between impeller & pump hsg is critical. Once past wear limit, thrust goes way down.


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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 25 Feb 2017, 22:51 

Joined: 20 Aug 2012, 22:01
Posts: 447
Location: martinsburg, wv
I take mine as seriously as hitting it with the grinder, then removing the burr on the opposite side. Takes me longer to remove the boot than sharpen the impeller


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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 26 Feb 2017, 20:11 

Joined: 26 Oct 2013, 14:56
Posts: 568
Location: Ewing, NJ
Do you have the stock reeds or aftermarket ones in the motor?



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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 26 Feb 2017, 21:06 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
Posts: 1947
Location: Falling Waters, WV
JL8Jeff wrote:
Do you have the stock reeds or aftermarket ones in the motor?


Aftermarket. Chris Carson reeds.



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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 26 Feb 2017, 23:20 

Joined: 26 Oct 2013, 14:56
Posts: 568
Location: Ewing, NJ
BigTerp wrote:
JL8Jeff wrote:
Do you have the stock reeds or aftermarket ones in the motor?


Aftermarket. Chris Carson reeds.


Do you think they could have weakened or something and are causing a slight loss of power? Just a thought.



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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 27 Feb 2017, 09:26 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
Posts: 1947
Location: Falling Waters, WV
JL8Jeff wrote:
BigTerp wrote:
JL8Jeff wrote:
Do you have the stock reeds or aftermarket ones in the motor?


Aftermarket. Chris Carson reeds.


Do you think they could have weakened or something and are causing a slight loss of power? Just a thought.


I've thought about this as well, but haven't taken them out to see. I'll have the boat out this weekend so we'll see how it runs after cleaning up the impeller and shimming it down one shim (if I can).



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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 28 Feb 2017, 10:26 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2012, 11:40
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Location: Falling Waters, WV
Got my impeller dressed up and to my surprise was able to shim it down one shim without it rubbing. The .015" feeler gauge was pretty tight in spots, but still fit the whole way around. There are still some spots that are .025" or greater, but afraid if I go down another shim it will rub. Taking it out Saturday to see if any of this made some improvements.

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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 02 Mar 2017, 10:09 

Joined: 20 Aug 2012, 22:01
Posts: 447
Location: martinsburg, wv
my ghetto way of checking clearance... pull out the spark plugs. shim the impeller. set the liner up. put 2 bolts in. have someone turn the flywheel by hand. shim it down as much as i can without rubbing.


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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 03 Mar 2017, 12:25 
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Location: Falling Waters, WV
JoshKeller wrote:
my ghetto way of checking clearance... pull out the spark plugs. shim the impeller. set the liner up. put 2 bolts in. have someone turn the flywheel by hand. shim it down as much as i can without rubbing.


Will do it like this the next time I have a helper. Honestly didn't feel like tearing it all apart again the other night to try one more shim on top. Pure laziness.



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 Post subject: Hull dents
PostPosted: 03 Mar 2017, 13:06 
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Joined: 08 Apr 2014, 07:59
Posts: 153
Location: SouthWest Virginia
Since OBJ recommends a clearance of .030" with an aluminum impeller and you say the .015" gauge is tight in spots, I'd say you need to run it before trying to add another shim on top. If I'm running a liner with some noticeable wear on it, I like to paint the inside of the liner with some black spray paint after adding shims on top. Makes it easier to tell if the impeller is rubbing.

FWIW, I don't think there is anything to gain by running an impeller with less than .020". It usually just results in more wear on the liner and impeller with little or no gain in performance.



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