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PostPosted: 12 Jan 2018, 14:37 

Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 01:49
Posts: 12
It hasn't been that bad feeding the 5356 030 wire through my little welder. The whip is quite short, and probably is what makes this possible. But overheating the contact tip leads to broken wires and feed issues.

File comment: bird nesting? hah. what a pain.
26694994_10154987075906470_528049002_o.jpg


My buddy has a miller 211 but he's in the next town about an hour away. I'd borrow it, but I'm worried that the longer whip may create more feed issues without a spool gun. So many options. Still eyeing the everlast 185. Can probably buy it, build the boat, and sell it afterwards to keep the cost down. Yeah right, who ever sells a welder without buying a better one first?

See you on the water.

Brian


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PostPosted: 12 Jan 2018, 18:39 

Joined: 13 Nov 2014, 08:01
Posts: 618
Funny that you can rent a backhoe but not a welder.

I was lucky that a relative loaned me his spool gun machine. It still ate tips.

Something I learned - run an oversized contact tip (.045 for ,035 wire) so it doesn't drag as much. I suppose it doesn't transfer as much amps but it cut down on burnbacks.

If it is a one time project, then an option is to rivet it together & take it to a weld shop.


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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2018, 02:37 

Joined: 09 Oct 2017, 20:11
Posts: 25
Outside corner welds are a little more difficult. Get yourself a backer bar/plate made out of copper. a 2"wx6"Lx 1/2" thick bar works best and cut a 45 on one end. your welds especially butt welds will improve tremendously!

Im also flat out shocked that you are getting any of that wire to feed through the "hose". Pushing aluminum wire is is like herding cats


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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2018, 01:44 

Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 01:49
Posts: 12
I'm pleasantly surprised by my equipment, especially considering the small amount of practice time. For sure, the welder is near it's limits, all the knobs are at or near maximum. I'll have to make time to practice my aluminum welding over the next few weeks. Can't expect decent results from a novice, so will have to hone the skill set before burning holes in the real thing. Thanks again for the tips and encouragement. I do have a backup plan, if the equipment isn't adequate, I can take the boat to a shop for welding. But being a hands-on kind of guy, really want to make this happen in the garage. With my own hands.

I've finally cleared out enough space in the garage to get the ski inside, so I can get it running properly. If it's not running properly in the ski hull, I fear I'll never get it to run properly. Still, not much to report at this time. I did perform a compression test, which was 125psi on both cylinders, cold engine. Didn't get to check crank case pressure sealing yet.

Pulling the carburetors out to overhaul is a royal pain. The exhaust pipe runs over the carbs, so needs to be removed for access, but it's bolted to everything, and physically surrounds the entire top of the engine. Took a bunch of salty language to disassemble. Hidden bolts and hidden couplers make what appears to be a simple job more difficult than it is. Chalk this up to lack of experience with 2-stroke watercraft.

Thankfully, the carbs look to be in good shape from the outside, and looking through the throats. Now I'm awaiting overhaul kits to arrive in a couple weeks. Thankfully, one of the local shops has a retired yamaha factory bike racing team tech there. Quite likely the diaphragms have failed, and these are the fuel pumps that draw fuel from the tank. They're powered by crank case pulse pressure. Learning quite a bit about 2 stroke stuff.

File comment: carburetors, out on the bench.
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So, while I'm waiting for parts, and for the carbs to be ready, I've been playing with paper models a bit more. Ignore the braces in the middle, they're just for ease of glue up. The overall profile is beginning to take shape.

File comment: simple nose. ignore floor glue-up braces
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I've found that wattscraft in New Zealand has a minijet boat intake kit for a reasonable sum of money. But shipping will be a pain. However, they have a business partner in Canada that does their cutting for the North American market. I'm in the process of contacting them about obtaining a jet intake kit.

See you on the water,

Brian


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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2018, 09:19 

Joined: 13 Nov 2014, 08:01
Posts: 618
Looks like great progress!

If your welds don't need to be waterproof, then making a bunch of short ones may be easier. I had the problem of heat getting head of me & I would burn a big hole after about 4 inches.

Regarding running the engine out of water, it behaves drastically diferent with no load, won't tell you much. I tested mine by tying boat to traiier extra well & running engine with trailer backed down ramp. Stirs up some mud but much safer than being out in the current.

I had problems with th 'pop-off' springs, made it run bad at midrange. There is a pressure test foir pop off you might want to do.

Good luck.


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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2018, 09:20 

Joined: 13 Nov 2014, 08:01
Posts: 618
Looks like great progress!

If your welds don't need to be waterproof, then making a bunch of short ones may be easier. I had the problem of heat getting head of me & I would burn a big hole after about 4 inches.

Regarding running the engine out of water, it behaves drastically different with no load, won't tell you much. I tested mine by tying boat to traiier extra well & running engine with trailer backed down ramp. Stirs up some mud but much safer than being out in the current.

I had problems with th 'pop-off' springs, made it run bad at midrange. There is a pressure test for pop off you might want to do.

Good luck.


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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2018, 00:59 

Joined: 11 Oct 2017, 01:49
Posts: 12
quick update, finally got the carburetors back together, and am installing them back into the waverunner. There's a hose that runs to the top of the bearing in the propshaft, but it's dangling into the bilge. What's it supposed to connect to?

The reed valves look to be in good shape too, so that's a plus. Hope to get the donor waverunner water tested this coming weekend. Will likely rip around with it for a couple weekends to learn to drive it before tearing it apart. What's it cost to have the driveshaft/propshaft shortened and re-splined?

Hoping to get this on the water soon.

Brian


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PostPosted: 22 Apr 2018, 08:27 

Joined: 13 Nov 2014, 08:01
Posts: 618
Green hulk website is a great resource to research your hose question.

Getting a shaft resplined will be very expensive. Why do you need to do that? Some brands have different shaft lengths (2 vs 3 person).

Good luck


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