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PostPosted: 06 Mar 2017, 12:04 

Joined: 28 Sep 2014, 09:02
Posts: 236
Location: Charlottesville, VA
I used a good used impeller that I got from Larry "The Man" MC!! It had never been filed at all and I just stuck it on there as is.

Clearly, the cavitation issue was caused due to way too much filing of the under side of the impeller. I kept all other factors exactly the same, down to the amount of gas I had and the person that I brought with me. I am very happy so for. Can't wait to add the fins on to see how they do in windy/choppy waters.


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PostPosted: 16 Mar 2017, 08:55 
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Joined: 02 Jun 2015, 09:56
Posts: 281
Location: southern indiana
I don't see why pods would hurt they would just give you more flotation in the back of the boat to help make it draft less.


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PostPosted: 24 Apr 2017, 17:27 

Joined: 28 Sep 2014, 09:02
Posts: 236
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Ok fellas,

I am bringing this thread back to life here.

I am playing with ideas to get the boat to draft less while on plane. I also still have some undesireable cavitation in certain condition. It is not terrible, but I would like to make it better. I would also like to help with holeshot some. I really do appreciate having the 4 stroke engine though. It is so quiet and smooth. I can toss my anchor over and pop her in reverse and just wait til the anchor locks in. Then I leave it in reverse and throw out the back anchor. Snug up the lines and cut the motor off. Works like a charm!!

That being said, I did notice that the bottom of my boat, just before the tunnel, has about a 1/4" deep hook. The hook is 2' long and looks like I need to hammer it out from inside the boat. My guess is because of the weight setting on the roller trailer. In order to do that I need to pull the floor, and possible cut the rear box out (which I dont like anyways.)

Do you think the hook could be adding to the cavitation?

I am hoping to bring the passenger up front with me to help with weight distribution. When I am the only one on this boat it rides LIKE A DREAM!! Add another @$$, and not so much. My fear is that if I bring the tail end up more, I will cavitate more in the chop. Ulgghhhh.


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PostPosted: 30 Jul 2017, 11:09 

Joined: 12 Jul 2017, 11:00
Posts: 107
I'm on the back end of this topic, it's interesting because I run a UHMW Hyde drift boat now, and three former UHMW bottom boats, one we retrofitted the bottom in the machine shop.

All the boats are flat/rocker bottom without strakes. And that probably makes a big difference. I don't think the weight is as big a factor, the material we use can't be much more than 30lbs on a 14ft. The Koffler RMTB 14/54 would get up and go with 10hp and three adults. Doubt it ran 20mph, but it responded well, did slide pushed hard in a turn but that's how the hull is supposed to do on these and why we can run class III.

Jon boat hulls are different. If I try it on one, will put the UHMW between the strakes and expect to loose some handling. I think my UHMW bottom adds some lift while drifting.


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PostPosted: 06 Dec 2017, 14:24 

Joined: 26 Oct 2017, 09:46
Posts: 8
Hey rotus623, I guess you are the one on Cville Craigslist that was selling the 60/40... I live in western Goochland and just acquired a 1997 sea ark allwelded 17' with a 90/65 2 stroke... Would be glad to demo for you though my boat is lighter it would be a decent comparison. I had mine out for the first time since buying (waiting on the title) two weeks ago and it does 32 down river and 30 up... at Watkins landing...


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