It is currently 20 Sep 2018, 12:49
Join the free forum or login with your account and the annoying banner goes away

eaglelodgemaine

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




 Page 2 of 2 [ 20 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
PostPosted: 06 Feb 2018, 18:46 

Joined: 20 Nov 2017, 12:35
Posts: 75
Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
Like Rich’s said in his original comment solder and heat shrink.

This is wrong, you cannot do that it needs a mechanical connection as per ABYC standard. Yes the lineman union joint is mechanical but I have a sneaking suspicion that if somebody ask if they can splice different gauge wires together, they don’t know how to do a proper lineman union joint. If it’s not done properly it’s not a proper mechanical connection.

Solder needs to be properly supported when used, if it’s not it will fail.

The easiest proper way is a crimp and heat shrink. It’s cheap, easy to use, and meets the standard.

What you do is always up to you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 06 Feb 2018, 22:41 
User avatar

Joined: 08 May 2017, 21:42
Posts: 381
Location: Southeast Florida (Tri county)
TheLastCall wrote:
Like Rich’s said in his original comment solder and heat shrink.

This is wrong, you cannot do that it needs a mechanical connection as per ABYC standard. Yes the lineman union joint is mechanical but I have a sneaking suspicion that if somebody ask if they can splice different gauge wires together, they don’t know how to do a proper lineman union joint. If it’s not done properly it’s not a proper mechanical connection.

Solder needs to be properly supported when used, if it’s not it will fail.

The easiest proper way is a crimp and heat shrink. It’s cheap, easy to use, and meets the standard.

What you do is always up to you.


"The easiest proper way is a crimp and heat shrink. It’s cheap, easy to use, and meets the standard."

Standards be damned I've had and seen Waaay.... to many crimp connections fail, and NEVER, ever a single western union AND solder AND heat shrink fail. When a boat catches fire it will not be the fault of my method. YMMV, it's not my boat :-)

My OP said...

"If a western union joint is soldered and the resulting connection is insulated with robust heat shrink tubing I'll put solder connections up against any mechanical crimp connection any day."

I stand by that



_________________
Regards,

Gary (in South Florida)
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 09 Feb 2018, 12:24 

Joined: 25 Feb 2017, 13:36
Posts: 18
Right on, lots of information there thanks fellas.

To be honest it is for 16 foot aluminum duck boat, so I am taking everything into account but i'm not running a whole lot of power at the end of the day (light bar and fog lights, led's under the gunnel on the inside, and as well on the outside, and a bilge) total amp draw for all of them running at once is 22 amps.
It'll be very rare for me to be using the bilge, so total amp draw of all the lights running is about 16 amps, i'll be running them off of a 32 amp hour Sealed Lead Acid battery. I live in Canada and it'll be fairly cold when I am utilizing it as a duck boat, so my battery will most likely be brought in and put on the charger after every use so its not outside in the cold and is always fully charged.

The longest time I would have absolutely all the lights going at the same time is about half an hour to 45 minutes max. Cabin lights will be used the most @ 2 amps, and someday i'll be adding a fish finder as well which doesn't draw much.

I will have inline fuses for the main battery run, the run to my headlights, a battery disconnect, and breakers at the switch panel for everything else. Everything will be grounded to a common busbar that will be isolated from the hull.

So at the end of the day I figure I'll do mostly crimp connectors, because they are easy and my wires will but tucked away into flexible conduit, so they won't be going through much abuse. My boat is also stored inside. I'll be soldering the connections to the LED's only, and sealing them with caps filled with RTV sealant for maximum waterproofing.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 10 Feb 2018, 23:20 
User avatar

Joined: 19 Jan 2013, 22:35
Posts: 115
Location: Sullivan county, Indiana
I have owned many boats over 30 years and have never, ever, had a soldered connection fail. I have, however, seen many crimped connections fail. I will keep soldering and enjoy worry free electrical.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 11 Feb 2018, 09:17 

Joined: 13 Nov 2014, 08:01
Posts: 708
Just my .02, I usually bundle wires together, w/ zip ties & plastic corrugated conduit. That cuts down on harmonic vibration of individual wires. My experience is that corrosion kills wire, not cracks.


Offline
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 Page 2 of 2 [ 20 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: muddywaders and 31 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Join the free forum or login with your account and the annoying banner goes away

Fiberglasssupplydepot