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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 09:48 
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Joined: 25 Jul 2013, 16:12
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Location: Contoocook, NH
My boat is a 1992 and pretty much untouched since then. 14' Starcraft with a 25hp side console, electric start. Has run like a top for the 4 years I've owned it. But recently I'm having engine trouble that I believe is electrical. About a week ago I went out and boat started fine, I ran for maybe 20 minutes then shut it down for a few, then when I went to restart it cranked for a split second then completely dead- no click or noise or anything. Then I was able to pull start it and it ran fine for another half hour until I got back to the launch.

Then last weekend I took it out and it would not start. No click, no nothing. I also could not pull start it, no matter where the key switch was. I checked all the fuses and found no problems there. I jumped the solenoid with a screwdriver and the starter cranks hard and perfect, but the motor has no spark. The safety tether has been suspect for a while, so I took that out of the circuit since it's easy, but that was not it. I believe it is the ignition switch itself, since it's the only thing that would kill juice to the starter and spark to the coils.

So I figured I would replace it, but that is not as easy it seems, because the original ignition all the contacts are epoxied. How can I replace this igniton switch, since I have no idea what all the wires do? And why does a simple ignition switch have so many wires? Even a car, motorcycle, snowmobile- everything I have ever worked on the ignition needs 3 or 4 wires total. I'm lost and any help or advice as how to proceed is appreciated.

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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 09:54 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
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Location: New England
Find schematic of your motor brand switch on-line and you'll find info on the wiring codes and locations.

As per these examples, for an OMC switch - http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... witch.html


Ignition.png
Ignition.png [ 6.57 KiB | Viewed 421 times ]

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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 10:00 
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Joined: 17 Mar 2015, 07:22
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It looks to me as if someone has replaced the switch before. The PO used epoxy to hold the wrong sized lugs in place. You didn't mention the motor brand, model, or year.

Good luck :D


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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 10:35 
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Joined: 25 Jul 2013, 16:12
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Location: Contoocook, NH
It's a 1992 Mercury 2 stroke 25HP remote. The eyelet crimps appear to be screwed onto the switch correctly, it just appears they epoxied the contacts. I think.

I found a wire schematic, but the colors at the motor are not the colors at the switch. It's really a cluster#@$% of epic proportions. I'm disgusted at the wiring situation of this boat... this is what is under the stupid console- a rats nest:

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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 10:40 
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Location: Contoocook, NH
DaleH wrote:
Find schematic of your motor brand switch on-line and you'll find info on the wiring codes and locations.

As per these examples, for an OMC switch - http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... witch.html


Well, that article explains why there are so many wires there. That's big time helpful, Dale- thanks.



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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 13:16 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2016, 23:10
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Location: Bellevue, WA
There is a color code that should be followed for vessel wiring (ABYC wiring standards), which might help you decipher what some of those tangled wires are for (purple should be instrument cluster, yellow/red should be the starter, etc.), but there's no telling if the PO followed convention (probably not). I'd guess you're in for a fun time of tracing wires.



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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 13:27 
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Location: New England
enginerd wrote:
There is a color code that should be followed for vessel wiring (ABYC wiring standards), which might help you decipher what some of those tangled wires are for (purple should be instrument cluster, yellow/red should be the starter, etc.), but there's no telling if the PO followed convention (probably not).

CAUTION - Those will also denote only the generic ones ...

I have encountered differences in ignition and motor wiring colors when working on different brands. One should not assume ... (I know that is not what you meant ... :wink: )



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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