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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 14:25 
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Joined: 17 Apr 2014, 15:39
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Location: Cullman, Alabama
I have yet to do any wiring on my 1648 flatbottom. I have tentatively decided that I want to get a switchpanel with integrated fuses so that I can simply mount it on a weatherproof pvc electrical junction box which I can locate somewhere convenient on the boat. I figure this is the best way to keep it neat and simple. Junction boxes come in a number of sizes and depths and shouldn't have a problem finding one to fit most any switch panel. Anyone have any recommendations? I would like to have a 3 way switch for navigation/anchor lights, plus enough switches for a bilge, livewell, lights, and a couple of extras. A 12V and usb outlet would also be nice but I could always add those separately.



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2016 Alumacraft 1648 NCS - 1992 Johnson 9.9 HP Tiller
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 16:12 
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Location: New England
I like the marine panels by Blue Seas but also recall seeing somemnice integrated switch panels on eBay where the circuit also lit up with an LED when energized. I have since seen the same make/models at two different boat stores, but I forget the seller's brand.



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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 16:48 
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Wow, this one looks cool! $49

http://m.ebay.com/itm/like/122043246268 ... mwBanner=1


image.jpeg

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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 16:49 
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Location: New England
Breakers/fuses not on front of the panel though ...



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 17:07 
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DaleH wrote:
Breakers/fuses not on front of the panel though ...


That one is very cool! Does that one have resettable breakers or fuses on the backside or is it purely switches only? Having fuses/breakers isn't a must have but just preferred. I guess there are plenty of low profile fuse boxes which may actually fit into or onto the side of the junction box if I were to get a large enough one.



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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 18:07 
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Location: New England
No built-in provision for circuit protection.

Quite honestly, and I've rigged dozens of boats, maybe 1/2 for me ... but after doing the wiring in as professional a manner as I can, at least for an experienced amateur ... I have YET to ever have had any circuit trip or blow or fuse or need any corrective action.

Done once, done right ... is DONE well!



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 18:17 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2016, 23:10
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Location: Bellevue, WA
While it's not quite as flashy as the one above, I like the switch panel below (note that I haven't actually used that panel myself though, so this isn't a testimonial). You may be able to find it on eBay a little cheaper and I think they come in a variety of sizes. Given the choice, I'd opt for breakers, since that means you don't have to worry about carrying extra fuses. It comes with an assortment from 5-amp up to 15-amp, but you can also buy other amperage breakers to replace as needed.

Image
http://www.amazon.com/Amarine-made-Aluminium-Circuit-Breaker-Waterproof/dp/B00W765DTS/ref=sr_1_14

You would need to replace one of the switches with a double-pole double-throw switch for the anchor/navigation lights, but those switches are readily available on your pick of websites. It also does not have your desired USB outlet, but you could easily lose one of the rocker switches and replace it with this:

Image
http://www.amazon.com/Mictuning-Universal-Rocker-Style-Charger/dp/B010T3D1CQ/ref=sr_1_4



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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 22:02 
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Built this using a 8x8x4 box from Home Depot. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=38748



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PostPosted: 20 Jul 2016, 10:08 
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Wow, thanks for the great ideas guys.

Enginerd, I like the the idea of just using breakers. Dale is right too....if everything is wired correctly, there is very little chance you ever trip one. So that seems like a good way to go to reduce clutter.

Produceman, that is exactly the type of box I plan to use. Right now my ribs on the sides are exposed so I'm thinking about using a piece of a road sign to span between them near the top and attaching the box there. From there I can fish my wires through the gunnel, down the groove behind the side ribs, or through the floor down the strakes.

Has anyone seen any junction boxes, or similar products, which come in rectangular shaped options? All junction boxes seem to be either 4, 6, 8, or 12" squares (4-6" in depth). A lot of the switch panels are rectangular and would require the 12"x12" box which is overkill. Some alternative product may be better than the junction box anyway.



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PostPosted: 20 Jul 2016, 10:46 
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Location: Dearborn, Manton Michigan
they call them electronic project boxes

come in many configurations

you can see a sample by searching Amazon with that term



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PostPosted: 21 Jul 2016, 10:22 
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perchjerker wrote:
they call them electronic project boxes

come in many configurations

you can see a sample by searching Amazon with that term


Thanks! Exactly like what I had in mind.



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PostPosted: 21 Jul 2016, 22:05 
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Location: New England
For my skiffs I make them out of those Tupperwear-type boxes that have latches to go hold the cover on, $3 at the Dollar Store - go figure ...



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 25 Jul 2016, 10:39 
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DaleH wrote:
For my skiffs I make them out of those Tupperwear-type boxes that have latches to go hold the cover on, $3 at the Dollar Store - go figure ...


Ah, I know what you mean. How do they hold up in the sun?

Also, thinking some more on this, I'm starting to lean towards not have a switch panel with built in fuses/breakers nor a fancy fusebox. Rather just use some generic inline fuse holders on the power wire between the switch and accessory and contained within the weatherproof box. If I wire everything up with appropriate gauge wire and use solid connections I really shouldn't have any issues and in the event I have to replace a fuse it would just require unscrewing 4 or so screws on the faceplate and replacing the fuse.

I really need to make a decision and go forward with it....I need navigation lights so I can get out to fish at night and beat this miserable heat lol!



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PostPosted: 25 Jul 2016, 11:14 
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wmk0002 wrote:
Ah, I know what you mean. How do they hold up in the sun?

Great question! Mine have been under transom caps or underneath the helm/console ... so they've been fine. Agreed a NEMA-type electrical box would be best suited if mounted out in the open!

Glad you clarified that for others :) .



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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