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PostPosted: 01 Aug 2016, 12:29 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 1660
Location: New England
Got this idea =D> from Richg99!

My bunks are positioned with the 2" by 4" horizontally, so I couldn't use the typical gutter covers he did. The stuff I got, donated for free from a neighbor, was an odd-angled 'U'-shape, where the sides of the 'U', if you will, have an extra bend in them.

I just used a simply C-clamp on each bunk end to temporarily hold the plastic/PVC/whatever in position, then just secured it with a few weather-roof siding screws and washers.

Simple and works well! The 1000+ pound boat & motor easily slid off the trailer into the water, before I would have to muscle it off ... depending on the steepness of the ramp and tidal stage. Or resort to the 'tie off the bow line, reverse fast and BRAKE' to slide her off the carpeted bunks.


Bunks1.JPG
Bunks2.JPG

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#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
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PostPosted: 01 Aug 2016, 14:19 
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Joined: 21 Apr 2012, 17:11
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Location: rural SW Wisconsin
Nice work.

yeah, Rich99 is one of those discrete treasures the forum has. Although I want to see a video of him catching one of the stripers he's shown while fishing from his kayak. =D> =D> =D>



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1980 Alumacraft Model F7, 1955-56? Johnson 10hp
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PostPosted: 17 Aug 2016, 15:54 

Joined: 25 Jul 2015, 18:30
Posts: 56
Location: Takoma Park, MD
Here's another happy gutter owner. I stripped the carpeting off the bunks. I lightly champfered the sides of the 2x4's to fit the gutter channel. On launching, I stop the trailer before the hubs touch the water. Then , with a light boat, I slide to 16' boat off with a light jiggle to break the first grip and a push to the water. On recovery, the winch pulls the boat up over the first roller. I have a lot less salt water held against the hull than with carpeted bunks.


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PostPosted: 17 Aug 2016, 15:56 

Joined: 10 Aug 2015, 20:07
Posts: 167
Location: Virginia
Will these work with my trailer with 2" wide bunks?


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PostPosted: 17 Aug 2016, 16:08 
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Location: New England
Scott85 wrote:
Will these work with my trailer with 2" wide bunks?

I think the rectangular in cross-section vinyl gutter material might work for you better. Heck ... whatever's the cheapest, right?



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 17 Aug 2016, 16:34 

Joined: 10 Aug 2015, 20:07
Posts: 167
Location: Virginia
DaleH wrote:
Scott85 wrote:
Will these work with my trailer with 2" wide bunks?

I think the rectangular in cross-section vinyl gutter material might work for you better. Heck ... whatever's the cheapest, right?
thanks buddy.


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PostPosted: 18 Aug 2016, 08:24 

Joined: 11 Mar 2013, 12:25
Posts: 32
Location: VA
how good do the boats slide on the gutter covered bunks? i've got a couple ramps that i use that when the water gets low can be hard to load and have to hand crank right much. i just installed some new carpet covered non treated lumber bunks but I d/k how long they will last and always looking for better ideas. thanks


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PostPosted: 18 Aug 2016, 10:01 

Joined: 25 Jan 2009, 15:19
Posts: 112
Where do you get that material (gutter covers)? Never seen it around here.


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PostPosted: 18 Aug 2016, 10:08 
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Location: New England
timsmcm wrote:
Where do you get that material (gutter covers)? Never seen it around here.

I see it at Home Depot or Lowes, the big box hardware stores.



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 09 Oct 2016, 07:36 
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Joined: 28 Jan 2014, 17:22
Posts: 102
Location: Way Up Northern NY
Remember, if it won't line up with the desired contours of your bunks get out the heat gun or hair dryer. PVC and any of the soft plastics form nicely once you get them hot enough. Even an infrared drying lamp helps as does using a couple of hair dryers. You can massage it with a mallet to flatten out the sharp edges. As long as it is hot it won't crack.
No worries about the wife bitchin because you ain't gonna tell here right [-X . If you toss her hair dryers in your tool box then things may get dangerous. [-o<



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PostPosted: 09 Oct 2016, 08:08 

Joined: 05 Aug 2011, 23:42
Posts: 240
timsmcm wrote:
Where do you get that material (gutter covers)? Never seen it around here.

************************************************************

Tims; look at the pics again. Those aren't gutter "covers". They're regular gutters, but flipped upside down, being used as bunk covers.
DaleH's word choice has you slightly confused.

Roger


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PostPosted: 09 Oct 2016, 21:47 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
Posts: 4305
Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Since my name has been brought up...and I've used the 3x4 DOWNSPOUTS, sliced horizontally, for a full season...I'd like to explain how I use them.

Launching...I have a verrrry long rope/painter on my boat. I tie one end to my trailer's winch tower and the other is on the bow of the boat.

I release the bow strap carefully when the stern is over the water.

My rope is so long that, after I back down the ramp, stop and BUMP the brake, the boat slides easily into the water. It glides way back and I step out of the vehicle; untie the rope and haul the boat to the dock. Too short of a rope/painter and the system doesn't work very well.

When recovering, the slipperiness of the PVC topper allows me to put less of the trailer into the water than before. Cranking the boat up is far easier than before.

The only issue that some have had (not me) is on a very steep ramp recovering can be hindered due to the boat sliding back down. If your ramps are that steep, one solution can be to only put the PVC on the lower half of the carpeted bunks.

Another solution is to keep the motor running until you latch the bow strap.

Hope this helps answer some questions.

richg99



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PostPosted: 12 Dec 2016, 19:11 

Joined: 25 Jul 2015, 18:30
Posts: 56
Location: Takoma Park, MD
Another happy user with a light 16' skiff. Easy on & off and secure on the road.

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PostPosted: 12 Dec 2016, 19:42 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
I was happy to have them a few weeks ago. My engine crapped out and I couldn't use the trolling motor to get me onto the bunks.

So, I floated the bow end up onto the far end of the bunks. I then had to hand-crank her all of the way up, on a fairly steep ramp, too. Without the slick surface of the gutter downspouts, there is NO WAY that I would have been able to put the boat on the trailer.

They work!

richg99



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PostPosted: 12 Dec 2016, 20:26 
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Location: New England
richg99 wrote:
The only issue that some have had (not me) is on a very steep ramp recovering can be hindered due to the boat sliding back down. If your ramps are that steep, one solution can be to only put the PVC on the lower half of the carpeted bunks.

Why not the upper half? Thinking that if the ramps one uses has a pretty good grade to it, the stern of the boat floats the transom off the rear of the bunks, then you're dragging the boat's weight up the front part of the bunks, where the vinyl could be.

I guess there's no right or wrong way, but I - like you - just covered the entire bunks with them and like it that way. As is I don't pull off the safety chain until ready to launch her in anyway ...



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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