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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2017, 14:09 
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Joined: 22 Nov 2008, 08:27
Posts: 95
Location: Central New Jersey
.Mike wrote:
richg99 wrote:
That's the way I am leaning.

Since this is the second converter harness, I'm not excited about spending another $60. for a third.

If it appears to be the converter, what about jumpering the brown wire?

Nobody has offered a single suggestion that explains how a bad black box could cause the interaction you are experiencing between light dimmers and your trailer lights. An intermittent ground (in the black box, or elsewhere in your vehicle), or even ground potential, explains it all day long. So does interference, which a 2 minute web search reveals can be an issue with Sienna vans.

5 minutes with a voltage tester, following the suggestion I made, will allow you to determine if you need to spend the extra $60. Randomly replacing components is guessing, not troubleshooting. You've already guessed once for $60. Do you really expect that another $60 guess will produce a different result?

What is the harm in following a reasonable troubleshooting procedure? If you aren't measuring the voltage going in and out of the black box, you aren't troubleshooting. If you aren't securing the grounds and testing for resistance or ground potential, you aren't troubleshooting.

Great suggestion here. You need to logically troubleshoot, not hunt and peck.

PostPosted: 01 Dec 2017, 16:14 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
Posts: 4763
Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Well, she is fixed ( I HOPE). I actually did pretty much everything that various people suggested on this and another site or two. CatFan on the BBC site suggested I make a long wire tester so that I could see when she was ON or OFF. That helped immeasurably.

On this site, Renn90 said that he had the exact same wiring harness, and his troubles disappeared after he fixed the end connector by squeezing the "tubes". Many have encouraged me to re-do the ground connections. I did all of the above.

I could have stopped and checked for a solution after each and every "fix". i.e. The Scientific Method. I chose to do all of them at once and take her for a ride.

When I was done, and with my extension sitting next to me, I drove all over and stopped, bumped, and turned the lights on and off many times. She never went off. I then drove to the boat barn and hooked up the trailer. We went for another couple of miles trek over every railroad track and bumpy road nearby. Once again, the lights stayed on.

I don't have a real solution for the next guy, other than to follow the excellent suggestions from this and other groups until you cure the problem.

thanks for all of the help and regards, richg99

p.s. Of course, the last time I thought I had the problem fixed, it re-occurred in 3 weeks. I won't call it DONE until I take the boat and trailer out for a half dozen additional runs.

“Busy is a choice. Stress is a choice. Joy is a choice. Choose well.”.....Ann Voskamp
PostPosted: 01 Dec 2017, 16:19 
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Joined: 02 Dec 2013, 21:05
Posts: 806
I'm with Mike. Ya gotta prove the input is good or bad by poking wires. If you determine its the vehicle then put in a new car battery next. Swap with the wife's car. That fixes weird computer problems and is simple to try.

1991 18' Valco Bayrunner Evenrude 48 SPL

PostPosted: 01 Dec 2017, 17:41 

Joined: 31 Aug 2017, 15:20
Posts: 246
Location: Maryland
Since this is not 100% conclusively resolved, I’ll add two very simple suggestions that you probably tried in the beginning, mostly for the benefit of some future sufferer.

First, make sure your plugs are clean using electric contact cleaner and dielectric grease. This fixed an intermittent light problem on my boat trailer.

Second, always check your grounds with the wires plugged in but with the hitch unhooked. Intermittent grounding through the hitch concealed wiring problems on my utility trailer that advanced my hair loss considerably.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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