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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2018, 00:24 
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Joined: 14 Aug 2016, 22:25
Posts: 1108
Location: Clayton California
I'm approaching the 300 hour service on my 2013 Mercury 25 EFI four stroke. Besides the water pump kit, I need a couple of fuel filters and some other misc items. I've done a little checking online but thought I would benefit from asking here. What is your favorite online place for ordering parts?

Thanks.

Larry



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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2018, 08:25 

Joined: 13 Nov 2014, 08:01
Posts: 628
I have had good luck with iboats


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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2018, 09:45 

Joined: 18 Jan 2016, 11:23
Posts: 59
Location: ND
MarineEngine.com and Iboats have been good for me.


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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2018, 10:05 

Joined: 20 Jul 2015, 11:19
Posts: 462
Just plug the part number into the search box on ebay.... You'll find several choices and it's always cheapest.


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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2018, 10:53 
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Joined: 08 Apr 2014, 07:59
Posts: 153
Location: SouthWest Virginia
CrowleyMarine.com and Boats.net are good places to shop for parts. Crowley prices are usually a little higher than Boats.net but shipping is cheaper. eBay is a good place to find parts but I haven't found prices to always be lower than they are on the two places I've mentioned.



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2011 Lowe Roughneck 1655CC - 2008 Mercury 2 Stroke 90/65 (Converted from prop 90)
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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2018, 18:55 
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Joined: 26 Feb 2013, 22:57
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Amazon has alot of parts also. I find that a lot of times the search function works well on that site but every once in awhile you have to find an actual part number. Best thing about it is that if you're a Prime customer shipping is always free

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2018, 20:23 
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Joined: 14 Aug 2016, 22:25
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Location: Clayton California
Thanks everyone. Your feedback was great. I got OEM parts and managed to save about $30 by shopping it around, so that is a good thing.



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PostPosted: 05 Jan 2018, 11:26 
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Joined: 02 Dec 2013, 21:05
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Can you snap some pics and tell us how easy or hard the maintnence was to perform?



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1991 18' Valco Bayrunner Evenrude 48 SPL

Arizona
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PostPosted: 05 Jan 2018, 15:09 
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Joined: 14 Aug 2016, 22:25
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Location: Clayton California
Stumpalump wrote:
Can you snap some pics and tell us how easy or hard the maintnence was to perform?


In all fairness I'm probably the last guy you want to follow for something like this. But sure, I would be happy to. I'm hoping I get the parts and get this done before the rains let up. Stay tuned.



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PostPosted: 11 Jan 2018, 02:35 
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Joined: 14 Aug 2016, 22:25
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Location: Clayton California
Stumpalump wrote:
Can you snap some pics and tell us how easy or hard the maintnence was to perform?


Here are some pics. I basically did as much of the 300 hour service as I could. I didn’t check timing because it is ECM dependent and I don’t have the software. I didn’t check valve lash. It is listed as a periodic maintenance item in the owner’s manual but not so in the service manual.

Please keep in mind, I’m not a skilled at this. I sprung for the service manual so I could hopefully save on some maintenance items by doing them myself.

Spark Plugs: There are 3. The lower one was a bear to get to. You can see the plug socket peeking through the mess of stuff . Access was easy after I removed the middle and lower ignition coils. Mercury’s Service manual says to use anti-seize on the plug threads. NGK says not to because you will over torque and their threads already have an anti-seize coating. I followed what NGK says.

Spark Plug.JPG


Replacing the fuel filter element is easy. Just remove the nut holding it on the bracket and pull the whole thing outside of the cowling. Unscrew and put the new element inside. Don’t put it back if you plan on replacing the high-pressure fuel filter because it will be in the way.
Fuel Filter.JPG


Here is a shot of the element I removed (on the right) and the new correct one (on the left). I had a place do a previous service and think they used some other filter they had handy. It was kind of crunched up like it didn’t fit that well. Seems not very good considering I paid a shop to perform the maintenance. But what do I know, maybe it is a better filter.

Fuel Filter Elements.JPG


The high-pressure fuel filter is buried down in the lower cowling. I’m pointing at it with a wrench in the photo below. The service manual says to release fuel pressure via a Schrader valve, which is located on the opposite side of the engine. Remove hose clamp and hose. Remove the 10 mm bolt. Then you can lift the whole thing up to access the bottom hose clamp.

Hig Pressure Fuel Filter 1.JPG


Next photo shows the high-pressure fuel filter pulled up above the lower cowling. At this point it is no big deal to replace and reinstall. BTW, these are expensive.

High Pressure Fuel Filter.JPG
High Pressure Fuel Filter.JPG [ 36.13 KiB | Viewed 172 times ]


Impeller Replacement: To remove the lower gear housing you first have to remove the dowel pin from the shift shaft connector. Use a small punch like the one shown in the photo below. Once you get it started it comes out easily. Make sure you order a replacement, as the pin will likely be damaged when you take it out. BTW, I wrapped electrical tape around the coupler and lower shift shaft so I wouldn’t lose the adjustment/setting.

Once the coupler is disconnected, dropping the lower housing and replacing the water pump is simple. In my case, remove 5 bolts and the housing drops right out. It might be a good idea to have a place in mind to put it while you replace the impeller.

shift linkage.JPG


Here is the gear housing sitting in my woodworking vise. Pull the 4 bolts, slide the plastic housing, pump liner, and impeller up and off the drive shaft. Grab the drive key off the shaft before it falls out. The kit I ordered has new gaskets, face plate, drive key, liner, and of course a new impeller. The old face plate showed no wear so I didn’t replace it. I used the gaskets, liner, new drive key and of course the new impeller. I put grease in the liner per the service manual. Also greased the splines on the upper part of the drive shaft. I was careful not to put grease on top of the drive shaft. Per the service manual this could cause fitment problems and damage. Reassembly is simple. Sorry I didn’t take more photos, but it was kind of over before I thought about photos. One note, the rubber bushing on the left side of the water pump housing is the lower seal for the water tube. Next time I will probably order a new one just so I have it in hand in case it needs to be replaced.

Water Pump.JPG


Here is a photo of the old impeller in the old liner. If you look closely, one of the vanes is pointing (bent) in an opposite direction – not a good thing. This isn’t how it was operating. The impeller kind of sits eccentrically inside the liner. This happened when I removed it from the driveshaft.

Kind of scary to think that little piece of rubber is keeping my outboard from turning into scrap metal.

Old Impeller.JPG



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