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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2016, 23:14 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
I just picked up my first boat ever and am in the process of getting it ready to go on the water. Does anyone have a good resource where i can see how the carb and choke connections should be set up. I have the service manual, but would like to be able to see an actual picture if possible. I have not made any changes from how it was when I got it last week, but I am not sure that everything is correct. I have zero experience with motors and realize that i have a lot to learn.

I was able to get the motor started and ran it in a barrel for a while, but I just have a gut feeling that something isn't right.

thanks


File comment: this side faces away from the engine (towards the boat). the valve is open like this in the rest position (choke lever pushed in), when i pull the choke lever out it closes a little bit, but not very much, certainly less than halfway.
Photo Sep 14, 7 32 24 PM.jpg
File comment: this is the side that connects to the engine, the valve is closed in the rest position, pulling the choke lever has no effect on it from what i can tell.
Photo Sep 14, 7 32 09 PM.jpg
File comment: before removal from the engine
Photo Sep 14, 7 01 38 PM.jpg
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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2016, 08:42 

Joined: 18 Sep 2016, 18:47
Posts: 6
I've got a '73 20 HP Johnson, that has the exact same carb.

Unfortunately, my choke lever was replaced with bailing wire. I'm getting parts on Friday to replace the wire with the actual choke lever. Once I get that installed hopefully this weekend I'll check mine out and let you know how it behaves.

I'm in the same boat you are -- this is my first outboard and it's been neglected.


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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2016, 09:12 

Joined: 20 Jul 2015, 11:19
Posts: 537
lots of good photos here. Looks like the adjustment screw is broken off ?

http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/PikeS ... 3.jpg.html


http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 4&p=251956


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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2016, 20:40 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
brassyb wrote:
I've got a '73 20 HP Johnson, that has the exact same carb.

Unfortunately, my choke lever was replaced with bailing wire. I'm getting parts on Friday to replace the wire with the actual choke lever. Once I get that installed hopefully this weekend I'll check mine out and let you know how it behaves.

I'm in the same boat you are -- this is my first outboard and it's been neglected.


cool, i will post here with anything that i notice and hopefully between the 2 of us we will have 2 well running motors


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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2016, 20:48 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
Shaugh wrote:
lots of good photos here. Looks like the adjustment screw is broken off ?

http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/PikeS ... 3.jpg.html


http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 4&p=251956



thanks, that was just was i was looking for! hopefully i will have some time to work on it this weekend


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PostPosted: 23 Sep 2016, 08:59 

Joined: 18 Sep 2016, 18:47
Posts: 6
So I got my new choke lever installed, and when my choke knob is all the way pulled out, it's almost 100% closed. There might be a small sliver of open space, but it's completely closed for the most part.


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PostPosted: 23 Sep 2016, 12:17 

Joined: 12 Nov 2014, 11:32
Posts: 339
Location: Magnolia, TX
To the both of you: new fuel lines and fuel filter.

Before hooking up the new fuel lines to your newly cleaned carbs, use the primer bulb on the fuel tank line to flush the lines. Get out any debris in the system so it doesn't get into you nice;y cleaned carb.

Good luck. 25 HP is a really nice tiller to have!

CMOS



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1963 Lone Star 14' "Commander" with a 1998 25 HP Mercury
1982 Johnson 15 HP - in pieces, in progress :wink:
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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 17:13 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
CMOS wrote:
To the both of you: new fuel lines and fuel filter.

Before hooking up the new fuel lines to your newly cleaned carbs, use the primer bulb on the fuel tank line to flush the lines. Get out any debris in the system so it doesn't get into you nice;y cleaned carb.

Good luck. 25 HP is a really nice tiller to have!

CMOS



I had thought about the fuel lines, the ones inside the motor were not original for sure, so i looked more closely and they were made in 2007. they are Bombardier ES 1763 and stamped with the date and time they were made. take a look at the picture below, they should be ethanol resistant and not need replaced, correct?

also re: the fuel filter, part # 3 in the diagram from this link is what you are referring to, correct?

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1973&hp=25&model=25302A&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Fuel+Pump

i had popped that off last week and looked at it, it looks clean to me, not sure about that discoloration though. any thoughts?

thanks


File comment: fuel filter?
Photo Sep 25, 4 11 06 PM.jpg
File comment: es1763 bombardier fuel line
Photo Sep 25, 3 27 55 PM.jpg
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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 17:17 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
brassyb wrote:
So I got my new choke lever installed, and when my choke knob is all the way pulled out, it's almost 100% closed. There might be a small sliver of open space, but it's completely closed for the most part.


mine does not do that, it only closes maybe 25%. looks like i have to figure out how to fix it. i need to look more closely at those pictures and see what i can figure out.


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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 17:31 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
I was able to replace the dry-rotted kill switch today. I bought a seadog universal lanyard killswitch. it came without any wires to use. the service manual says the originals are 18 gauge. i didn't have anything laying around that i was sure was 18 gauge. i almost used some 14 gauge electrical wire, but decided to use some extra trailer light wire which looked to be the same size. I clipped the corroded wire and connected them together because i couldn't figure out how to get the original wire connector out of the plastic housing clip. the guy at the autoparts store thought i could use a "pickset tool" to do that, but i don't have one of those. he also suggested i use vinyl tape instead of electrical tape to cover these connections, so i was thinking of going to buy some of that. should this be OK or should i just go buy some 18 gauge wire, will it make a difference? I'm also worried the trailer wire might not be insulated enough to stand the heat of the motor.

thanks


File comment: new wire connection
Photo Sep 25, 3 29 46 PM.jpg
File comment: new killswitch connection
Photo Sep 25, 3 29 33 PM.jpg
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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 17:35 

Joined: 12 Nov 2014, 11:32
Posts: 339
Location: Magnolia, TX
rkc118 wrote:
CMOS wrote:
To the both of you: new fuel lines and fuel filter.

Before hooking up the new fuel lines to your newly cleaned carbs, use the primer bulb on the fuel tank line to flush the lines. Get out any debris in the system so it doesn't get into you nice;y cleaned carb.

Good luck. 25 HP is a really nice tiller to have!

CMOS



I had thought about the fuel lines, the ones inside the motor were not original for sure, so i looked more closely and they were made in 2007. they are Bombardier ES 1763 and stamped with the date and time they were made. take a look at the picture below, they should be ethanol resistant and not need replaced, correct?

also re: the fuel filter, part # 3 in the diagram from this link is what you are referring to, correct?

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1973&hp=25&model=25302A&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Fuel+Pump

i had popped that off last week and looked at it, it looks clean to me, not sure about that discoloration though. any thoughts?

thanks



The fuel screen is there to help but I would still suggest you install a true inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb. This will filter out even very small pieces of debris.

Als0, at 7+ years old, just go ahead and replace the fuel lines. It's literally only a few bucks, and there may very well be material improvements made to the hoses since 2007.

CMOS



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1963 Lone Star 14' "Commander" with a 1998 25 HP Mercury
1982 Johnson 15 HP - in pieces, in progress :wink:
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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 17:47 

Joined: 12 Nov 2014, 11:32
Posts: 339
Location: Magnolia, TX
rkc118 wrote:
I was able to replace the dry-rotted kill switch today. I bought a seadog universal lanyard killswitch. it came without any wires to use. the service manual says the originals are 18 gauge. i didn't have anything laying around that i was sure was 18 gauge. i almost used some 14 gauge electrical wire, but decided to use some extra trailer light wire which looked to be the same size. I clipped the corroded wire and connected them together because i couldn't figure out how to get the original wire connector out of the plastic housing clip. the guy at the autoparts store thought i could use a "pickset tool" to do that, but i don't have one of those. he also suggested i use vinyl tape instead of electrical tape to cover these connections, so i was thinking of going to buy some of that. should this be OK or should i just go buy some 18 gauge wire, will it make a difference? I'm also worried the trailer wire might not be insulated enough to stand the heat of the motor.

thanks



The wire itself will be fine. The air temperature inside the cowling is not that high. My only concern with what you did is the crimp terminations. I'm anal, and I don't like them. At some point, the crimp connections will oxidize. I always solder these connections. A soldered connection is hermetic, which will not oxidize. It'll work for now but I'd suggest getting an inexpensive Weller soldering iron, watch a couple YouTube videos and learn to solder those connections.

CMOS



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1963 Lone Star 14' "Commander" with a 1998 25 HP Mercury
1982 Johnson 15 HP - in pieces, in progress :wink:
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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 19:50 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
CMOS wrote:


The fuel screen is there to help but I would still suggest you install a true inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb. This will filter out even very small pieces of debris.

CMOS



any suggestions on which one to get? sounds like something i could work on over the winter.


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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 19:51 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
CMOS wrote:

The wire itself will be fine. The air temperature inside the cowling is not that high. My only concern with what you did is the crimp terminations. I'm anal, and I don't like them. At some point, the crimp connections will oxidize. I always solder these connections. A soldered connection is hermetic, which will not oxidize. It'll work for now but I'd suggest getting an inexpensive Weller soldering iron, watch a couple YouTube videos and learn to solder those connections.

CMOS



thanks, advice like that is much appreciated.


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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 20:41 

Joined: 12 Nov 2014, 11:32
Posts: 339
Location: Magnolia, TX
rkc118 wrote:
CMOS wrote:


The fuel screen is there to help but I would still suggest you install a true inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb. This will filter out even very small pieces of debris.

CMOS



any suggestions on which one to get? sounds like something i could work on over the winter.



Check your fuel line ID, but I think this should work: 0388742 - Fuel Filter

CMOS



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1963 Lone Star 14' "Commander" with a 1998 25 HP Mercury
1982 Johnson 15 HP - in pieces, in progress :wink:
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