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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2016, 14:18 

Joined: 12 Nov 2014, 11:32
Posts: 339
Location: Magnolia, TX
Howdy All,

My 1966 Johnson 9.5 (MQ-12A) runs like a scalded dog. I could not be happpier with this motor.

One thing I would like to do is to re-center the slow speed mixture knob on the front panel. I have it adjusted right at the 9-o'clock position so I would like to re-center it to the 12-o'clock spot, as on occasion for a short period of time I do rich it up a bit. This is the type of system where there is a flexible cable going from the front panel to the carb body. See pics below.

I do have the Service Manuals for this motor but I can't find anything on doing this specific task.

Thanks for any help.

CMOS


DSCN6899.JPG
DSCN6898.JPG
DSCN6897.JPG

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1963 Lone Star 14' "Commander" with a 1998 25 HP Mercury
1982 Johnson 15 HP - in pieces, in progress :wink:
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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 10:05 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
Posts: 4722
Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Perhaps the cable has, finally, stretched? What do I know (nothing )about this stuff?

I'd try the Antique outboard guys at http://www.aomci.org/

richg99



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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 10:33 

Joined: 12 Nov 2014, 11:32
Posts: 339
Location: Magnolia, TX
Hey Rich,

I'm hoping that Pappy will chime in. He'll know! :mrgreen:


CMOS



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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 10:38 
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Oh,I agree.... send him a PM, too. richg99



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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 12:08 

Joined: 20 Jul 2015, 11:19
Posts: 548
There should be an E clip that holds the knob on to the face plate. once you get the knob free it should spread open and pull off the shaft end of the cable... pretty sure it's just a splined shaft that the knob is pushed on... should pull straight off.. but get it detached from the face plate first so you don't crack it.


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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 13:39 
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Joined: 05 May 2016, 18:46
Posts: 161
Location: Central Illinois
I have the 1967 version of this motor.

When I got the motor the knob was MIA. So I ordered a new one. I already set the position of the of the cable and just popped the new knob I got. It was not 100% centered, just off a bit. I have enough room to adjust either direction.



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1979 MirroCraft F4604
1967 Johnson MQ13 9.5 Hp
1974 Evinrude 25452M 25 Hp

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 13:43 

Joined: 12 Nov 2014, 11:32
Posts: 339
Location: Magnolia, TX
FormerParatrooper wrote:
I have the 1967 version of this motor.

When I got the motor the knob was MIA. So I ordered a new one. I already set the position of the of the cable and just popped the new knob I got. It was not 100% centered, just off a bit. I have enough room to adjust either direction.



So the knob just pulls off the cable with a friction fit?



CMOS



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1982 Johnson 15 HP - in pieces, in progress :wink:
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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 14:12 
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Joined: 05 May 2016, 18:46
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Location: Central Illinois
The one I got was just a friction fit, it was OEM. But, the next one, also a friction fit, I drilled a small hole in it and put a allen head screw in it. The friction fit alone went MIA as well. So far after a few outings it is still there.

Not sure about the 66's, mine is a 67 and I understand the only difference is the factory installed vibration dampener.

I found a lot of good info on these motors on this site and on Leeroys Ramblings.



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1979 MirroCraft F4604
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1974 Evinrude 25452M 25 Hp

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 14:26 

Joined: 12 Nov 2014, 11:32
Posts: 339
Location: Magnolia, TX
FormerParatrooper wrote:
The one I got was just a friction fit, it was OEM. But, the next one, also a friction fit, I drilled a small hole in it and put a allen head screw in it. The friction fit alone went MIA as well. So far after a few outings it is still there.

Not sure about the 66's, mine is a 67 and I understand the only difference is the factory installed vibration dampener.

I found a lot of good info on these motors on this site and on Leeroys Ramblings.



Yep - LeeRoy has been a big help to me. In fact he has 2 pictures of my motor on his web site for this date rage of motors. Apparently I had some good, clear pics of a couple certain engine areas that he wanted to use. :mrgreen:

I do not have a C-clip on the inside of my front panel for this knob. I can see the groove but no clip. So I guess I'll try wiggling it out and then see if I can re-center the knob.

CMOS



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1982 Johnson 15 HP - in pieces, in progress :wink:
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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 14:32 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Sometimes...simple is best.

richg99



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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 14:37 
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Joined: 05 May 2016, 18:46
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Location: Central Illinois
CMOS wrote:
FormerParatrooper wrote:
The one I got was just a friction fit, it was OEM. But, the next one, also a friction fit, I drilled a small hole in it and put a allen head screw in it. The friction fit alone went MIA as well. So far after a few outings it is still there.

Not sure about the 66's, mine is a 67 and I understand the only difference is the factory installed vibration dampener.

I found a lot of good info on these motors on this site and on Leeroys Ramblings.



Yep - LeeRoy has been a big help to me. In fact he has 2 pictures of my motor on his web site for this date rage of motors. Apparently I had some good, clear pics of a couple certain engine areas that he wanted to use. :mrgreen:

I do not have a C-clip on the inside of my front panel for this knob. I can see the groove but no clip. So I guess I'll try wiggling it out and then see if I can re-center the knob.

CMOS


Find the part number and look for it on ebay. I found my knob there for $12 instead of the $30-$40 price that other sites want. You definitely want it on, it will keep the cable from moving too much in and out which will help the know disappear into the drink.



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1974 Evinrude 25452M 25 Hp

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 14:59 

Joined: 20 Jul 2015, 11:19
Posts: 548
Sometimes they can get very stuck on that shaft... grab the brass shaft on the inside with a smooth pliers and the knob with one of those kitchen jar opener rubber things if you can't budge it. Be careful that ancient plastic can get very brittle. And find a 50 cent E clip at the local hardware. Just measure the shaft diameter.


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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2016, 15:11 

Joined: 12 Nov 2014, 11:32
Posts: 339
Location: Magnolia, TX
Shaugh wrote:
Sometimes they can get very stuck on that shaft... grab the brass shaft on the inside with a smooth pliers and the knob with one of those kitchen jar opener rubber things if you can't budge it. Be careful that ancient plastic can get very brittle. And find a 50 cent E clip at the local hardware. Just measure the shaft diameter.



Sounds like a plan. I can't seem to find one on Ebay or the other usual suppliers of parts for these older motors.

CMOS



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