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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 15:40 

Joined: 29 Aug 2011, 04:59
Posts: 871
I was trying to find some research on rinsing down my outboards powerhead with a freshwater mist from my hose,there is mixed opinions so I was wondering if anyone here does that after using it in saltwater. I use mine primarily in saltwater(say 95%)so I read that rinsing it off gently won't hurt a thing. From all I've read is come home do the powerhead rinse first then run it on muffs to warm it up to dry it off,plus I have the fl sun. Anyone do this???? I also use super tech lubricant from Walmart as a protective dressing for over 20yrs but I like the idea of rinsing it off first. I know to cover up the carb and coils,plus the computer,I would think all the rest is waterproof. Any opinions?????.


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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 16:18 

Joined: 19 Feb 2013, 15:33
Posts: 371
2-3x per year, but not every time you run it on muffs. this is how i do it:

step 1: engine degreaser (auto parts store)
step 2: soak (read the can)
step 3: gentle washdown with a hose, don't spray, don't mist, gentle flow of water from top down, let gravity work, & avoid watering the carbs & the electrical components like the starter, the coils, & the computer (if it has 1), cover them if you can but don't worry if you can't, step 4 saves you here, you MUST let the engine dry completely before you crank it
step 4: dry (air dry, use a towel where you can)
step 5: tire shine (this protects & makes it look factory fresh, WD40 also works, but tireshine lasts longer)


I suggest doing this as infrequently as you can get away with. While you are removing some salt, you are also washing some salt into other areas you can't see/reach

do this when you do NOT have to crank the boat for a while, because you don't want to crank it up if any water got into the electrical system, it can blow fuses or worse. same method i use to clean under the hood of my truck, you have to let it air dry before you crank it up

i also use waterproof grease (the blue stuff) like i put in my steering arm to protect the motor mounts, & anything else that looks like it needs protection & is not electrical. use dielectric grease on the spark plug boots, be sure to use the red hi temp grease on your trailer as the blue stuff will liquify @ highways speeds even though it protects better at reasonable temps than the red


Last edited by chevyrulz on 05 Aug 2016, 13:11, edited 1 time in total.


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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 17:13 

Joined: 29 Aug 2011, 04:59
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The issue is I get salt buildup every trip no matter what. That saltwater finds it's way in. In the last 20yrs or so I have never used water,just spray the entire engine from cowling to prop with freshwater, then I take the cowling off and spray super tech lubricant all over the powerhead and I have never ever had one drop of corrosion on any outboards but the freshwater powerhead wash intrigued me a bit. Never heard of tire shine used,interesting. I have black magic tire dressing if that's what you mean.


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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 17:17 

Joined: 29 Aug 2011, 04:59
Posts: 871
What exact grease do u use? I have a special big tub of marine reel grease made by amsoil that seems to be some great stuff but only use regular Marine grease, it's I believe marine pennzoil grease,stuff turns to goo fast,I need a new grease.


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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 19:04 
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Joined: 15 May 2010, 00:38
Posts: 2394
Location: Central Florida
If it is just salt a plain old soap and water bath is all it needs. Keep the water out of the starter and carbs, other than that just wash it !
I use T9 BoShield to protect the powerheads we run through the shop. After several years of seeing the same boat/engines come through the shop
for annual services I can say it works. Side benefit of the BoShield (or I would imagine whatever equivalent) is that it seems to keep the Mud Daubers
from building nests under the cowlings. The powerheads stay slippery and I don't think they like it for nesting purposes.


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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 20:35 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
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Location: New England
FWIW I've seen that Boeshield T9 gum up over time and cause moving parts to stick. I use it, but only for static (non-moving) parts.



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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 23:06 
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Joined: 15 May 2010, 00:38
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Location: Central Florida
No gumming issues at all in the last 7 years down here. Perfect for what we use it for.


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PostPosted: 05 Aug 2016, 02:16 

Joined: 29 Aug 2011, 04:59
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Went out and bought some good marine grease,the thick blue stuff. For the life of me I couldn't understand why the grease on my moving parts,like the linkage areas and the plastic shift pieces,I used the wrong grease. The grease I was using was so loose,it was like a light green color,the blue stuff I just opened up is thick and looks like it won't break down at all. I will just stick to my plan I guess of rinsing my outboard from top to bottom with freshwater, then I will check the powerhead, if it's real salty then I will squirt it down with light soap and water in a bottle and then rinse it off with a light mist from my hose nozzle. I use super tech lubricant after every use and I have never had any issues so I guess I will stick to what works. I got some cheap paint brushes to get into all the nooks and crannies so no salt will build up anywhere. I'm very miticulous about how I care for my stuff. I need to clean my outboard every trip because it makes me feel good about it. I like an extremely clean engine, easy to work on and looks fantastic as well as runs awesome. I also use turtle wax spray and dry on the whole outboard from top to bottom when it drys and it looks like new. Sorry,I'm very analysis about maintenance and how it is cared for as far as being clean. It's a 24yr old outboard and I like to keep it another 24yrs,lol. It's a 93 but in showroom condition. She takes care of me,I take care of her,lol.


Last edited by scoobeb on 05 Aug 2016, 12:33, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 05 Aug 2016, 03:05 

Joined: 29 Aug 2011, 04:59
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Once the corrosion x is on the powerhead and I go on my next trip will the corrosion x come off the powerhead if I wash it down with just freshwater? Do I spray the corrosion x on my powerhead after every trip which is near 4-5 times a week I fish so I'm constantly in salt. Once I spray the corrosion x on how do I go about cleaning the powerhead because if I see any salt I clean till it's gone,so please how does it work????


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PostPosted: 05 Aug 2016, 08:27 
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Location: New England
scoobeb wrote:
Do I spray the corrosion x on my powerhead after every trip which is near 4-5 times a week I fish so I'm constantly in salt.

FWIW I have been boating for almost 50-years in saltwaters now ... and for many years my bros and I were running up to 13 OBs a season amonsgt us 4. Plus I run the boat dock at my boat club with another fleet of over a dozen smaller OB powered boats of the tin and plastic flotilla. We have YET to ever had to rinse, flush, or washdown an OB during the season ... for cause.

We keep good records and do excellent pre-season and post-season preps, washes, rinses, flushes, clean/lube and service. We have never had an OB go down or taken out of service for anything but the "Awh crap ..." incidents that just happen, that NO ONE could ever forecast or prevent against. We've had zero damages or issues with salt air exposure to the motors.

Sure, to keep them looking good, wash down the cowls/hoods and keep them covered in sunbrella or other breathable covers when not in use. Even throw in a mid-season waxing. That's what I did with my big V6s puppies.

But otherwise I just don't honestly see the need for what you propose under the cowling ... a good cleaning and wax job like you're doing, but in the pre-season, should suffice.



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#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
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PostPosted: 05 Aug 2016, 09:17 
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Joined: 16 Feb 2016, 13:20
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Location: Dearborn, Manton Michigan
DaleH wrote:
scoobeb wrote:
Do I spray the corrosion x on my powerhead after every trip which is near 4-5 times a week I fish so I'm constantly in salt.

FWIW I have been boating for almost 50-years in saltwaters now ... and for many years my bros and I were running up to 13 OBs a season amonsgt us 4. Plus I run the boat dock at my boat club with another fleet of over a dozen smaller OB powered boats of the tin and plastic flotilla. We have YET to ever had to rinse, flush, or washdown an OB during the season ... for cause.

We keep good records and do excellent pre-season and post-season preps, washes, rinses, flushes, clean/lube and service. We have never had an OB go down or taken out of service for anything but the "Awh crap ..." incidents that just happen, that NO ONE could ever forecast or prevent against. We've had zero damages or issues with salt air exposure to the motors.

Sure, to keep them looking good, wash down the cowls/hoods and keep them covered in sunbrella or other breathable covers when not in use. Even throw in a mid-season waxing. That's what I did with my big V6s puppies.

But otherwise I just don't honestly see the need for what you propose under the cowling ... a good cleaning and wax job like you're doing, but in the pre-season, should suffice.


he wants to eat dinner using his flywheel as a dinner plate lol



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PostPosted: 05 Aug 2016, 12:43 

Joined: 29 Aug 2011, 04:59
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Hey,sorry I care about my stuff,yes you can eat dinner off the flywheel also among the rest of my outboard. In my eyes a motor not flushed from saltwater is no option for me,I don't care if it's saltwater or freshwater, I flush it,takes me a whole 5-10 minutes out of my day and clean as a whistle. I will just continue my routine because it works and add in a freshwater bath on the powerhead once a week or once every two weeks. A motor clean and spotless is a motor happy.


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PostPosted: 05 Aug 2016, 13:08 

Joined: 19 Feb 2013, 15:33
Posts: 371
scoobeb wrote:
What exact grease do u use?
outboard steering, tilt, & other low temp applications:
Image

trailer wheel bearings, prop shaft, & other hi temp applications:
Image

scoobeb wrote:
I have black magic tire dressing if that's what you mean.
That'll work, any brand will work, I prefer aerosol for both the degreaser & the shine, these are the ones I usually get:
Image
Image

as mentioned, soap & water works too. the best protectant is called Fluid Film, but it ain't cheap. yes washing with water will eventually remove the coating of fluid film (or corrosion X, or WD 40, or whatever), but it takes a bit before that happens. i spray my trailer leaf springs & hardware with WD-40 whenever they look "dry" like when they stop beading water, buddy does this to his trailer, & it's from 1970 & looks brand new still. you can get WD40 at harbor freight by the gallon & pour it into a regular spray bottle like would be used for windex/409, the aerosol version gets expensive for spraying down a trailer lol

& none of this is required maintenance. the motor will run fine w/o any of this. i like to keep it looking showroom new though as well :mrgreen:



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PostPosted: 05 Aug 2016, 14:20 

Joined: 29 Aug 2011, 04:59
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I got the same Lucas brand at home depot yesterday but the marine grease,will that work on the prop,etc.. or does it need to be the red stuff?Also I spray every nut and bolt on my trailer with lithium grease and have never had a drop of rust on any new bought trailer. The spray stuff in the can works awesome, I don't trailer my boat far,a mile to a couple max,I live on the water but the ramp is a few blocks away. I have torsion Axles so no b leaf springs to worry about to. That white lithium grease sticks like glue and protects all my bolts and nuts well.


Last edited by scoobeb on 05 Aug 2016, 19:02, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 05 Aug 2016, 15:35 

Joined: 19 Feb 2013, 15:33
Posts: 371
definitely, the blue is good for everything except the trailer wheel bearings

the blue is what i put on my prop shaft if i don't have the red, the prop shaft doesn't get that hot so it's fine

the evinrude blue & the lucas blue is the same thing



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