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akmccallumco

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PostPosted: 02 Aug 2016, 01:42 

Joined: 20 Aug 2015, 19:33
Posts: 457
I'm gonna take a look at one this weekend. Can someone tell me what kinda compression numbers i should see when checking please. Thanks!

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PostPosted: 02 Aug 2016, 12:29 
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Joined: 21 Apr 2012, 17:11
Posts: 1082
Location: rural SW Wisconsin
Texas Prowler wrote:
I'm gonna take a look at one this weekend. Can someone tell me what kinda compression numbers i should see when checking please. Thanks!

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I did the Google search for you. Found this link, as well as the others I posted in your other inquiry post:

Seems that as long as the two cylinders are within 10% of each other, it doesn't matter much, all the way down to 50psi. Posts are from iboats.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-r ... sion-specs


Be safe, have fun.



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1955 Alumacraft Model A
http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic ... 08&start=0
1959 Alumacraft Model F
http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25386
1980 Alumacraft Model F7, 1955-56? Johnson 10hp
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=35326
1956 Alumacraft Model RB
http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=39249
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PostPosted: 02 Aug 2016, 14:28 

Joined: 20 Aug 2015, 19:33
Posts: 457
Thank you!

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PostPosted: 02 Aug 2016, 21:35 
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Joined: 15 May 2010, 00:38
Posts: 2396
Location: Central Florida
I would put that limit, with wet cylinders at around 65-70 minimum. 50 is scary low.
That engine is hard to kill.
Worked on one today as a matter of fact. After putting a water pump in the same engine a couple weeks ago the engine came back for a repeat shutting down issue. While working on that I did a digital temp reading on the cylinder head and block. Block was at 132f and cylinder head was at 230f. Just a tad warm. The engine didn't seem to care! There are a bunch of other engines out there that would have stuck by that time. Pulled the cylinder head and found water jackets packed with sand and silt. Removed the gunk and it ran 108f and around 150f. Good to go. Shut down issue was a filter with too fine a screen in it that would not flow fuel when the tank got low.
Anyway.....when you get the engine going run a ton of engine tuner through it. These little guys really respond to it and clean up well.
The little 3hp engines are ones that I plan on always having one or two around in my arsenal for fun. They are that good!


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PostPosted: 03 Aug 2016, 21:33 

Joined: 20 Aug 2015, 19:33
Posts: 457
Hey i really appreciate your input pappy. The seller has offered it for$75.00 it doesn't run tho. I wanted to get one for my bass raider. Are all the parts still available like piston rings and pistons? How about paint?

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PostPosted: 03 Aug 2016, 21:49 

Joined: 20 Aug 2015, 19:33
Posts: 457
https://youtu.be/zaAXg_GKZ50
Figured I'd post a YouTube find.

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PostPosted: 03 Aug 2016, 22:45 
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Joined: 15 May 2010, 00:38
Posts: 2396
Location: Central Florida
Texas Prowler wrote:
Hey i really appreciate your input pappy. The seller has offered it for$75.00 it doesn't run tho. I wanted to get one for my bass raider. Are all the parts still available like piston rings and pistons? How about paint?

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I haven't checked on pistons and rings for one in a long long time. They usually do not need it. All of the service parts are still readily available including head
gaskets and exhaust cover gaskets. Pumps, carb kits, ignition all available as well.


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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 23:32 

Joined: 20 Aug 2015, 19:33
Posts: 457
Good deal. I plan to go check it out this weekend. I'll keep you guys updated.

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PostPosted: 14 Aug 2016, 15:17 

Joined: 20 Aug 2015, 19:33
Posts: 457
Well it's a no go. I had interest in the two i found available. One runs but has no id tag and sellers asking more than I'm willing to fork over. The other doesn't run and seller sounds shady and won't let me bring a compression tester. Oh well I'll keep busy on my other project until another pops up.

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