It is currently 22 May 2018, 13:31
Join the free forum or login with your account and the annoying banner goes away

“ElcoMotorYachts”

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




 Page 1 of 2 [ 21 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: 18 Dec 2015, 09:45 
Donor
User avatar

Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 1650
Location: New England
FYI, there's been a few posts lately about stuck bolts and such. Here's a great easy-to-mix DIY product that will be the best penetrating fluid you could use ...

Jim - Perhaps this should be a stickie post ...

==========================================================

FWIW the best penetrating oil one can use is a DIY homemade mix of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid (ATF).

Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.

This is what they came up with:

  • Nothing: 516 lbs
  • WD-40: 238 lbs
  • PB Blaster: 214 lbs
  • Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs
  • Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
  • ATF/Acetone mix (50/50 mix): 50 lbs



_________________
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
Online
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 18 Dec 2015, 10:42 
Donor
User avatar

Joined: 05 Apr 2009, 08:37
Posts: 1554
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
My dad used to use brake fluid


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 18 Dec 2015, 11:49 

Joined: 21 Jul 2011, 10:31
Posts: 1050
Location: palmerton pa.
Since reading about the ATF and Acetone mix awhile back, I started using it.
All I can say is: It Works!


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 18 Dec 2015, 12:56 
Donor
User avatar

Joined: 02 Mar 2014, 19:52
Posts: 3191
Location: Central FLORIDA - The Sunshine State -
and I agree - since Dale posted it, I have seen it discussed
in other forums such as vintage car and truck restoration.
It is not easy to compare the ATF to the others without having
a base line with several equally stuck bolts.
I keep a pint squirt bottle nearby and use it frequently.

yes, IT WORKS !!



_________________
http://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
http://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = http://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = http://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1959 Lone Star Malibu 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 18 Dec 2015, 13:05 
User avatar

Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1687
Location: CT
Keep in mind though Acetone does not play nicely with a wide variety of paints & plastics & overspray/spilling etc. will be more of an issue. I stopped using this combo after too much collateral damage.



_________________
For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs, Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - restoration posting coming soon w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp 2-Stroke & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v shared w/ my 14'


The way people should be
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 07 Jun 2016, 09:47 

Joined: 09 Oct 2015, 15:03
Posts: 19
Location: Iowa
I've used KROIL for the past 40+ years, I love the product and it has no adverse effect on paint, I have used it to dry out points etc. on distributors when they have become wet and motor wouldn't run. very good product, only downfall is you have to order it directly from Kano laboratories, but well worth it.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 07 Jun 2016, 10:13 
User avatar

Joined: 16 Feb 2016, 13:20
Posts: 590
Location: Dearborn, Manton Michigan
IADIVER wrote:
I've used KROIL for the past 40+ years, I love the product and it has no adverse effect on paint, I have used it to dry out points etc. on distributors when they have become wet and motor wouldn't run. very good product, only downfall is you have to order it directly from Kano laboratories, but well worth it.


I just walk over to our machine shop and fill up a little bottle of it 8)

I am lucky



_________________
my build 1976 14ft Meyers V hull

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=40127
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 07 Jun 2016, 10:22 

Joined: 21 Jul 2011, 10:31
Posts: 1050
Location: palmerton pa.
I just walk over to our machine shop and fill up a little bottle of it 8)
I am lucky[/quote]

I am lucky too, I have a buddy that works at a machine shop! :wink: Good stuff!
One thing I found interesting when they did the test, liquid wrench tested better than the much acclaimed PB Blaster.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 07 Jun 2016, 10:28 
User avatar

Joined: 19 Dec 2015, 20:40
Posts: 87
Location: S.C.
Thanks Dale. Going to remember this as my usual go to tool is my oxygen and acetylene torch but sometimes it's not practical.



_________________
Retired ... Nothing to do and all day to do it.

2001 16' Lund 25 Yamaha
various sailboats
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 07 Jun 2016, 11:14 

Joined: 09 Oct 2015, 15:03
Posts: 19
Location: Iowa
perchjerker wrote:
IADIVER wrote:
I've used KROIL for the past 40+ years, I love the product and it has no adverse effect on paint, I have used it to dry out points etc. on distributors when they have become wet and motor wouldn't run. very good product, only downfall is you have to order it directly from Kano laboratories, but well worth it.


I just walk over to our machine shop and fill up a little bottle of it 8)

I am lucky


you are lucky perchjerker, I used to work on typewriters, adding machines, cash registers, etc. in the family business, and used it all the time for a machine that would either lock up, not type because of sticky key's etc. we used kroil to "unstick" everything and then use a mixture of liquid graphite and kroil, kept the machines working extremely well for a long time after.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 08 Jun 2016, 23:31 
User avatar

Joined: 04 Aug 2014, 17:24
Posts: 269
Location: Northwest Indiana
IADIVER said " and then use a mixture of liquid graphite and kroil,

Kroil now offers a graphite/penetrant. Works real good especially on choke and throttle cableson lawn mowers.
They sent a can with the last gallon I ordered.

Steve A W




_________________
Professionals build the Titanic.
Amateurs built the Ark!
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2016, 19:37 

Joined: 21 Mar 2016, 21:48
Posts: 103
Location: Yukon Ok.
I use aero-kroil because I got a lot of it free.

When I run out I will probably mix my own again.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 11 Jun 2016, 13:11 

Joined: 17 Apr 2016, 19:24
Posts: 115
From experience in antique engines with anything you can think of froze stuck, iodine. The same thing you use on cuts. Give it some time to work if it doesn't release right away.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 11 Jun 2016, 15:03 
User avatar

Joined: 31 Jul 2013, 11:13
Posts: 200
Location: Michigan
I used transmission fluid on brake line fittings(wanting to at least save a rear junction) of an old ,many salty winters truck.
Soaked fittings down daily a few days first.
Perhaps my only success with well rusted brake fittings coming un-threaded.



_________________
88 Misty River 12 ft with 87 4 h.p. Johnson (saddle tank).
97( 50th Anniversary edition) Sea Nymph FM 146 side console with 25 h.p. twin Evinrude.
93 Radisson 14 ft. Square stern canoe.
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 24 Jun 2016, 11:03 

Joined: 11 Jul 2010, 16:58
Posts: 36
I just seen this older post so thought I throw in my 2 cents. I used the acetone and Trans fluid mix. An old tractor guy told me about it. I work in an office so to maintain my sanity I work on anything with a motor when I get home. I just rebuilt the entire front end and A-arms original to a 1980 Z28. VERY serious rust. Mon - Fri I hit the nuts once in the morning and once at night. That Saturday I was able to remove everything without using a breaker bar. Next I am using it on header bolts. Best I have ever used. I also use it on vintage garden tractors and it has never failed me. Between that, vinegar, and using electrolysis I can clean up just about anything vintage.


Offline
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 Page 1 of 2 [ 21 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 73 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Join the free forum or login with your account and the annoying banner goes away

SliderG5