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PostPosted: 21 Aug 2018, 13:36 

Joined: 23 Jul 2018, 11:52
Posts: 35
Location: phx az
I have ordered a Grizzly 1448. I have yet to order the motor.
The actual shaft length on the Merc short shaft is 15.9 in. and the long shaft is 21.7
The transom is 17.5 in. If I get the short shaft it will be 1.5 in above the transom. If I get the long shaft I can adjust with a mini jacker etc.
My question is what would be better for the boat, motor, prop. Fixed i.5 above transom with the short shaft or use of mini jacker and long shaft with a 4" offset?

Thx



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PostPosted: 22 Aug 2018, 19:25 

Joined: 24 Dec 2011, 22:06
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Location: 72032
With a 17.5" transom, you need a short shaft. You "could" put a long on a jack plate but then it looks weird and the motor's moved back about 4" which makes the tiller handle "shorter".

The transom on mine's a short one and measures 16 7/8" from the top of the transom to the bottom of the keel. I run a 16" (short) motor on it and it works fine. Boat manufacturers are weird about the measurements sometimes. IMO, they should be called "short" or "tall"-and leave it alone.


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PostPosted: 22 Aug 2018, 23:45 

Joined: 23 Jul 2018, 11:52
Posts: 35
Location: phx az
turbotodd wrote:
With a 17.5" transom, you need a short shaft. You "could" put a long on a jack plate but then it looks weird and the motor's moved back about 4" which makes the tiller handle "shorter".

The transom on mine's a short one and measures 16 7/8" from the top of the transom to the bottom of the keel. I run a 16" (short) motor on it and it works fine. Boat manufacturers are weird about the measurements sometimes. IMO, they should be called "short" or "tall"-and leave it alone.


Thx for your response. I picked up the boat this am. After talking to the cabelas maintenance guys I ordered the long shaft. I'll be mounting the jacker where I want it and they will just drop the engine on and drill two bolts. It will be about 1" above the bottom transom. Merc sent me these schematics.
I wish tracker would make their 1448 with a 20" option. I love the new front hatch. This thing is a tank.


image002.png
image001.png

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PostPosted: 15 Sep 2018, 05:58 

Joined: 23 Jul 2018, 11:52
Posts: 35
Location: phx az
turbotodd wrote:
With a 17.5" transom, you need a short shaft. You "could" put a long on a jack plate but then it looks weird and the motor's moved back about 4" which makes the tiller handle "shorter".

The transom on mine's a short one and measures 16 7/8" from the top of the transom to the bottom of the keel. I run a 16" (short) motor on it and it works fine. Boat manufacturers are weird about the measurements sometimes. IMO, they should be called "short" or "tall"-and leave it alone.


I think you are correct even tho Cabelas said I need a long shaft at least initially, now they want to know if I want to try a short shaft. BTW TH mini jacker is too narrow for the merc 25 bolt pattern. They said maybe I could have a metal fabricator widen the jack. I left. I spoke with Tohatsu who makes a 25 short shaft with power trim. They said their 15.9 short shaft is closer to 17". I trust someone who has a short shaft on a 17" transom like yourself. I have a lot to learn about marine tech.



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PostPosted: 15 Sep 2018, 23:07 

Joined: 24 Dec 2011, 22:06
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Location: 72032
fyr4efect wrote:
I have a lot to learn about marine tech.


So do I, which is why I'm on this site as often as I am.


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PostPosted: 16 Sep 2018, 16:50 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
I believe that Tahatsu makes both their own small engines, and also makes most of the Mercury small engines, too.



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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2018, 19:23 

Joined: 23 Jul 2018, 11:52
Posts: 35
Location: phx az
turbotodd wrote:
fyr4efect wrote:
I have a lot to learn about marine tech.


So do I, which is why I'm on this site as often as I am.


I've got it boiled down to a Tohatsu 25 electric,PT&T or Suzuki 25 electric PT&T. I am still studying both. The Tohatsu dealer here looks like hes working out of a house and the Suzuki dealers is 120 miles away but looks more reputable. Appreciate any opinions.



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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2018, 19:41 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
I have owned both 10 hp Tahatsu and a 10 hp Suzuki. Didn't own either of them long enough to have any trouble.

My tendency would be towards the Tahatsu but only because they do have a fine reputation and they make the Mercury motors, so you might be able to get service from a Merc. guy. Though, that might not be under warranty.

Guess you have to do some internet searching to see which one has the better feedback online.



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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2018, 21:50 

Joined: 23 Jul 2018, 11:52
Posts: 35
Location: phx az
richg99 wrote:
I have owned both 10 hp Tahatsu and a 10 hp Suzuki. Didn't own either of them long enough to have any trouble.

My tendency would be towards the Tahatsu but only because they do have a fine reputation and they make the Mercury motors, so you might be able to get service from a Merc. guy. Though, that might not be under warranty.

Guess you have to do some internet searching to see which one has the better feedback online.

Thx for the input



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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2018, 09:19 

Joined: 17 Sep 2018, 21:34
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I have a 2017 Grizzly 1448 that I bought 1 year old. (and yes, 17.5" transom as well). Came with a 2017 20 HP Suzuki tiller short shaft. Main reason for the 1448 is it fits in my small garage but I really wanted a side console version so I sold the motor, bought a side console setup, and a 2018 Suzuki 25 HP (DF25ATL) remote steer long shaft to be attached to a THMarine micro-jacker power jack.
I feel your pain with the decision to go short or long shaft. 17.5 is sort of in the middle of 15" versus 20". The short shaft tiller had to be setup just right. Top speed versus venting of the prop on corners versus getting it to plain out with two on board. But, it did work and the boat moved along nicely at 27 MPH or so. I can say just bolting on a long shaft to the existing transom without some sort of jack plate will end up with the vent plate being 2" to 3 " below the bottom of the transom. I will hurt top speed - too much motor in the water.
For me, because the combined weight of the DF25ATL (~158 lbs) and the micro-jacker (~30 Lbs), I also welded on a pair of beavertail flotation pods to the rear end.
I'm new to the forum but would be happy to share my experience with this if anyone is interested.


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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2018, 09:30 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Thanks for sharing. Please post a picture of your boat's stern when convenient.



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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2018, 13:03 

Joined: 17 Sep 2018, 21:34
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Will do in a few days. Away from home this week ...


Last edited by jtsull on 18 Sep 2018, 15:12, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 18 Sep 2018, 13:30 

Joined: 23 Jul 2018, 11:52
Posts: 35
Location: phx az
jtsull wrote:
Will do in a few days. Away from home the week ...


Just got off the phone with Suzuki. Said 25ATHS [short shaft] measures 16.6" clamps to cav plate. Theyre sending a schematic. Pic of my swing tongue added. Saved two ft.


IMG_20180918_105312933.jpg
DF25ATH dimension specs.pdf [54.89 KiB]
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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2018, 16:27 

Joined: 17 Sep 2018, 21:34
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So here is my build. Note: the transom is no longer 17.5". I had a 2" x 2" x 1/4" aluminum square tube welded to the top of the transom and welded into the corner supports. Even with that, the micro-jacker is mounted 1/2" above the transom top resulting with the motor's cav plate about 1/2" below the bottom of the boat when the jack is all the way down. So my jack's travel is about 1/2" below the bottom of the boat to 4 1/2" above. (Great for skinny water but a little too high for on plain motoring). In my humble opinion with your 17.5" transom, I would clamp a short shaft on it if not using a jack. If you get a long shaft, even with a jack consider I have mine mounted at 20" and still it is a little below the bottom of the boat. Without the mod I made to the transom the cav plate would be about 2 1/2" below the bottom of the boat all the way down. Note: I couldn't use a short shaft and mount the jack plate lower on the transom because the motor clamps won't clear the transom when lowering. Adding 2" to the transom locked in into a long shaft. However with the pods and 19 1/2" transom, no more water slashes in over the transom.
Pictures attached. My sealing job with white marine sealant is a mess. But the setup does work nicely. Hope this helps.


File comment: Jack up/down switch on console.
6.jpg
File comment: View from boat with Jack up
5.jpg
File comment: Jack all the way up - vent plate about 4" above bottom of boat.
4.jpg
File comment: Jack all the way down - vent plate even with bottom of the boat
3.jpg
File comment: Jack all the way down
2.jpg
File comment: Jack all the way down.
IMG_4642.jpg
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