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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2019, 15:49 

Joined: 12 Sep 2018, 20:22
Posts: 19
Picked up a $75 Fastwin electric start (condition unknown at time of purchase). She ran in a barrel, and went forward/reverse. so now I am willing to dig into some tune up. (Actually got the 2 pictured below from the back of a barn for $150 total)

Found this unconnected wire? Of any consequence? Comes from timing plate area.

ImageImage

Next step is tackling the carb rebuild once I stare at everything a little linger to remember where it all goes and try to get the bugger out.


Here is the 18 and 5.5 after a hose down
ImageImage


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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2019, 23:20 
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Joined: 15 May 2010, 00:38
Posts: 2681
Location: Central Florida
Wire should be there to serve as a shut off for the ignition. Can be connected to a push button kill switch or something dash mounted. Other side of the switch should go to ground.
Make sure you do the entire job and do it correctly on the engine.
Use OEM parts. Why? They fit! Sierra carb kits are incomplete. Sierra points do not line up. Sierra coils often will not mount at all and when they do the center pickup shoe is too far from the flywheel magnets to produce spark.
Same with water pump. Do not bring this engine back into service without doing the water pump. Use OEM components here as well.
Spark plugs should be Champions. The engine was designed using these and they do a very good job in them.
Engine can be run on a 50:1 mixture but for longevity I would run a heavier mixture.


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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2019, 00:01 

Joined: 03 Mar 2013, 02:14
Posts: 437
Location: San Antonio, TX
adam_mac84,

Fwiw, electric-start 18HP OBs (at least here in South TX) are "scarcer than hen's teeth" & 200-300 each (in repairable shape) is about what they will bring to power the larger tin John-boats.

Also, I have NEVER had any difficulty with SIERRA PARTS from our local NAPA Auto parts house. = About half the price of the "name brand" parts & work FINE.
(I only own about a dozen "Big Twins", mostly SEA KINGs, from 15-40HP, so I know at least a little about buying, "fixing-up" & running CHEAP outboards built by Brooklure, Evinrude, Gale, Johnson & Sea King.)

ADDENDA: For the 1962 year model OMC outboards, the gas to oil mix is 24-1. - I just checked my notes to be sure.

Note: Should you find a GREEN Brooklure of 20HP or more, "grab it with both hands & hang on", is my advice.
Money wouldn't buy my formerly "one-owner", "very low hours", electric start Brooklure 2500 (Model 3327) Big Twin, that I bought for 50 bucks at the end of an Austin estate sale in 2016.

Also, in the event that you don't have a copy (I wore-out my first copy & bought another copy.), buy a copy of CHEAP OUTBOARDS: The Beginner's Guide to Making an Old Motor Run Forever by Max Wawrzyniak III & READ IT "cover to cover" before picking up a screwdriver/wrench.
(I paid 5 bucks for my 1st copy at Salvation Army's local store & paid 8 bucks at Goodwill for the "new" one. - You may also want to check-out Amazon.com or ebay.com for a CHEAP copy.)

Note: As our area's "friendly neighborhood cheapskate", I'll keep running my "garage sale outboards" for as long as I'm able to "get out there" to fish/"boat-ride" with my beloved Darla.

just my OPINIONS, tex :D :D



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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2019, 12:54 

Joined: 20 Jul 2015, 11:19
Posts: 561
That off center button on the front that's above the needle adjustments is the kill switch. It's supposed to be wired to that plug.
Image

I'd agree with Pappy, for the small dollars involved, go with OEM parts where you can. Is the powerhead painted green ? Hard to tell for sure in phone photos... but if it is then the motor has been rebuilt at least once with an older (Pre 56) Johnson powerhead.


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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2019, 20:24 
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Joined: 15 May 2010, 00:38
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Location: Central Florida
Correction to my statement about 50:1. That engine should be run on 24:1 as was mentioned earlier. For some reason I had a later year model in my head! 50:1 engines did not appear until 1964.
Shaugh mentioned the green powerhead. Very true, 1955 and earlier powerheads were painted this color and in that model year there was no 18hp. The 15hp did not appear until 1956 and the 18hp did not appear until 1957. Neither one of those had the green color. Does the powerhead appear to have been re-painted to that color?
Give me the model numbers listed on the tags on the port transom brackets. Let's see what these engines actually are. We may be able to make more sense of the green powerhead then.


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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2019, 23:16 

Joined: 03 Mar 2013, 02:14
Posts: 437
Location: San Antonio, TX
Pappy,

My GUESS is that somebody repaired the Evinrude OB by changing a out the powerhead for an earlier year model JOHNSON unit.
(Perhaps the original power-head was RUINED by NOT using the proper gas/oil mixture??)

yours, tex



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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2019, 11:00 

Joined: 12 Sep 2018, 20:22
Posts: 19
Shaugh wrote:
That off center button on the front that's above the needle adjustments is the kill switch. It's supposed to be wired to that plug.
Image

.


That button is wired to the starter.

I’ll try to grab some of the powerhead numbers tonight. Using OEM as much as possible. Good local engine shop nearby


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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2019, 11:33 

Joined: 12 Sep 2018, 20:22
Posts: 19
Pappy wrote:
Wire should be there to serve as a shut off for the ignition. Can be connected to a push button kill switch or something dash mounted. Other side of the switch should go to ground.
Make sure you do the entire job and do it correctly on the engine.
Use OEM parts. Why? They fit! Sierra carb kits are incomplete. Sierra points do not line up. Sierra coils often will not mount at all and when they do the center pickup shoe is too far from the flywheel magnets to produce spark.
Same with water pump. Do not bring this engine back into service without doing the water pump. Use OEM components here as well.
Spark plugs should be Champions. The engine was designed using these and they do a very good job in them.
Engine can be run on a 50:1 mixture but for longevity I would run a heavier mixture.


I am placing an order for the water pump as well as the throttle gear bushing and that little wedge pin in the throttle linkage. Trying to tighten things up a bit. Also ordering new fuel filter and maybe the parts for fuel pump. Although it seems be operating fine (for now)


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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2019, 11:50 

Joined: 12 Sep 2018, 20:22
Posts: 19
Snagged some pics. I had not noticed the two tone but it certainly looks like a couple colors going on here (lower is also 2 tone it seems)

I did see what looked like some welding on the powerhead. I can’t say if I know if this is normal
IMG_1267.jpg
ImageImageImageImage


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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2019, 12:18 
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Joined: 15 May 2010, 00:38
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Location: Central Florida
A 15036 is a 1962 18hp for sure. What baffles me is the green powerhead. The plug in the powerhead does not appear to have been installed by anyone other than the factory.
The welding is definitely a repair of some sort. The engine does have some of the original colored parts on it from what it looks like. Can you take a couple more pics of the side of the engine that has the plug in it? and a close up of the plug? Or can you take a good look at the plug and see if it looks like it has been installed in that powerhead by someone other than the factory. This is interesting.......


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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2019, 12:35 

Joined: 20 Jul 2015, 11:19
Posts: 561
Quote:
That button is wired to the starter.


Ok I think that was a common override with an electric start. Here is the exploded diagram:

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/john ... otor+Cover


It's interesting that marineengine.com doesn't even show a listing for 1962. But the parts should be the same in all but only a few cases.

Regarding the greenish color, it's easier to see in those better photos that it is all Evinrude imo. That light blue often cooked to a greenish color over time.

The weld is likely a repair of a stress crack caused by the electric start... which appears to be a later addition using newer parts.


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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2019, 14:25 

Joined: 12 Sep 2018, 20:22
Posts: 19
It certainly goes up toward the points. ImageImage
Image

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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2019, 14:55 

Joined: 20 Jul 2015, 11:19
Posts: 561
Yes when they converted it to an electric start they replaced the kill switch with the ignition switch. The kill switch was probably just discarded and the plug you see is what was left. Or it's possible it was wired to a remote switch, but I think many times people just killed the motor with the choke in those days.

here's a photo of a 59 Evinrude I have in the shop showing how the paint does turn greenish over time:
IMG_3543.JPG


I think the green in your photos is mostly a camera / background reflection issue.


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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2019, 15:45 

Joined: 12 Sep 2018, 20:22
Posts: 19
Well. Touch old motors and things happen. Here (was) the old plug. Just fine tho. If it’s a kill ground I’ll just wire a leash. Image


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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2019, 15:53 

Joined: 20 Jul 2015, 11:19
Posts: 561
That drawing was hard to see how the factory kill switch was wired... watch this movie at 2:35... the kill switch is the bottom center button. That's what should be connected to that plug:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXeo9vlTJlA

Yours has the battery wiring going out that switch hole.


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