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PostPosted: 12 Oct 2017, 00:19 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
Posts: 3766
Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
The first time I start this engine it has to crank for 15/25 seconds, then I try again and after another 15/20 seconds, she finally does start. First, I pump the bulb and it gets hard. Then I press the key in and hold it for 10 seconds, and then turn the key ON.

The rest of the day she starts with me barely touching the key.

Normally, I would just take it into my trusted mechanic, but this boat will now live out her days in TN. and my mechanic is in Houston, TX.

The few times I did take it into my Houston guy, he said there was "nothing wrong with the engine except the operator". ( we know each other very well for 20 years) I later found out that he was using his own separate tank.

My tank was a new EPA tank with the pressure regulator. I found that the pressure regulator was leaking. I removed the pressure regulator completely and replaced the EPA tank cap with a vented cap. From that time on, she started better, but still not right. Now, she is falling back into the hard starting issues again.

Any ideas appreciated. I normally leave engine work for the pros, but I don't trust the two mechanics I've used for small issues here in TN.
thanks richg99



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PostPosted: 12 Oct 2017, 11:48 
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Joined: 17 Dec 2010, 12:15
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Location: Kankakee County, IL
I have a 89 48hp spl johnson. I pump the bulb til hard, then I turn the key and push in at the same time for about 3-4 seconds. If it does not start right away, I make sure the bulb is hard, if not, I pump it again. I think air might be in there sometimes, usually starts pretty soon after that. I use the primer to keep it going after it fires up with momentary squirts. This is only after a extended non-use, if using daily, she starts right up. FWIW
Tim



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16ft 1989 Fisher SV-2 w 1988 48hp SPL Johnson "CIGAR BARGE"
(engine looks like a wreck but runs great)
Used to have 1972 14ft Lund w 1977 15hp Mariner
(engine looked great but always ran marginal)
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PostPosted: 12 Oct 2017, 19:29 
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Joined: 15 May 2010, 00:38
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Location: Central Florida
Your engine is equipped with a primer system and the previous post was very accurate in describing a proper starting technique.
The primer works only off of pressurized fuel. When the key is depressed you are opening a fuel valve in the primer and fuel will flow as long as there is pressure. A good hand prime is necessary for a normal first cold start.
Now....Lets check your nipples!
No.....not those! The ones on your engine that the primer hoses hook up to! The delivery hole in them is tiny and can plug up super easy. Make sure they are clean and clear first, then, while your hoses are still disconnected pressurize the fuel system and check fuel flow through the hoses by using the key switch then the manual override on the primer solenoid. Once the system is verified then use the procedure outlined above and you should have a good starting engine.
First starts on a cold engine that is trimmed down are more sucessful than one that is started in the high trim or low tilt position as well. Fuel flows better downhill !!


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PostPosted: 12 Oct 2017, 20:13 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
Posts: 3766
Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Thanks, Pappy, I was hoping you'd post up.

I'll see what I can check out tomorrow. As far as
"manual override on the primer solenoid. "
can you direct me to any pictures on the internet that would show me what to look for?

I've been messing about with boats for about 60 years, but generally, leave the engine stuff to guys like you.

richg99


Last edited by richg99 on 13 Oct 2017, 20:41, edited 1 time in total.


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PostPosted: 13 Oct 2017, 14:50 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Well, I guess I am just plain really dumb.

For the last 40 years or so of running outboards, I had never heard of the "tilt the engine in" suggestion.

This only worked one time today, but...I used to keep the engine level when starting. Seemed to make sense to me. Today, I tucked the motor all of the way tight. She started in just a few seconds. I hope to check that process out a few more times before this tinny gets left to Winter in TN.

Thanks, Pappy, et al.

richg99


Last edited by richg99 on 13 Oct 2017, 20:41, edited 1 time in total.


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PostPosted: 13 Oct 2017, 19:22 
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Joined: 15 May 2010, 00:38
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Location: Central Florida
Johnny? lol

You mentioned nothing about verifying that the tiny holes in the delivery nipples were clean and clear. Did you check? Did you verify the system works as outlined? The manual override is the small red lever located on the primer solenoid. Pump the primer bulb and turn it and verify the system works manually. May get you out of a jam if you lose all batt. power one day.

Pappy.......!


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PostPosted: 13 Oct 2017, 20:49 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Pappy, Pappy, Pappy....NOT Johnny...

Please accept my humblest apologies for mixing you two oracles up. I know Johnny is the PAINT guy, and Pappy is the ENGINE guy.

My excuse is.....well, I don't have any excuse other than its been a strange and dis-oriented day or two. I woke up with one plan for the next three days, and by noon, that plan had dissolved and been changed markedly. We head back to Houston mid-week so that hasn't helped.

Anyhow, the only chance that I had to run the engine was 15 minutes this afternoon, and that was to put her on the trailer (for more adventures tomorrow). I will take a good look at the fuel system, as you recommended, but it will probably be Sunday or Monday.

Heck, if it starts tomorrow like it did today, I might be afraid to lift the cowling.....

Thanks again for all of the help.

Now, we can just wait until I get to Houston and start messing about with the 50 hp 2 cycle 2009 Mercury on the Texas boat!!



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PostPosted: 13 Oct 2017, 22:08 
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Had to bust your chops on that one. Not a problem. I know Johnny personally and he is a great guy and a super knowledgeable man.
Shhhhh.....don't tell him I said that or his hat won't fit any more. :D


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PostPosted: 15 Oct 2017, 09:47 

Joined: 31 Aug 2017, 15:20
Posts: 86
Location: Maryland
I like being part of a forum with a few amiable oracles...

Seriously, this place is like a secret decoder ring for all the weird stuff that the marine industry has put together over the last 60 years or so.


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PostPosted: 15 Oct 2017, 17:34 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Well Pappy, what can I say.

When tilted back, the motor starts in seconds each time. I took her out yesterday for a short while, and again this morning. It is like I have a new motor. Thanks.

Today, I did look for the red switch on the solenoid (picture attached) and believe I will know what to look for in the future, should I ever need to. I presume that if I ever lose total power, and I have to pull start her, I push that switch to prime the engine????

Also today, I wasn't able to check for function on the "primer" /key switch since I had already run the motor dry when I finished with her this morning. Too many things to think of when I only want to go fishing!

This closing down one boat, one van, and one house has become a mess this Fall. Perhaps I'll be better equipped next year. This is the first time I am leaving the boat here for the entire Winter. She's been fogged and run dry of fuel, the two gallons left in her tank will be treated tomorrow, or I'll find a yard guy to haul it off.

Thanks for all of your help. I feel like I have a new motor now!

richg99


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