Transom wood reclamation.

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adam_mac84
Posts: 19
Joined: 12 Sep 2018, 20:22

Transom wood reclamation.

Post by adam_mac84 » 18 Sep 2018, 20:20

I am rehabbing a 74 Sea Nymph 14b.

Took off wood transom support to replace. Noticed the wood (placed by PO, Not factory) does not fit a small indent that seems stock. Just to confirm. Should I try to fit the transom board to this indent? Common sense would say yes. PO places a 20” 1.5” board across the whole back.

The issue is that water seems to have been getting up behind there.

I tried to mark the area for better visual contrast for photo. Also pictured is removed transom board. (Blue is indent in aluminum. Yellow is where board I removed was placed)
ImageImage



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MrGiggles
Posts: 223
Joined: 12 Jul 2017, 21:42
Location: Springfield, MO

Transom wood reclamation.

Post by MrGiggles » 18 Sep 2018, 21:03

Yes, the board the should reach almost gunnel to gunnel. You lose a lot of rigidity by having it only in the middle.

As for the shape, you can cut it more or less as you please, I don't think it has to be curved like the factory.

adam_mac84
Posts: 19
Joined: 12 Sep 2018, 20:22

Re: Transom wood reclamation.

Post by adam_mac84 » 18 Sep 2018, 22:26

Copy that. I was just worried about the dead space behind the board back there. If I run it all the way across. That will end up having 1/8” gap or so between board and transom. (In the U shaped area outlined in blue). Does that make sense?[emoji848]

I guess I can just fill with 5200. But that seems messy


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earl60446
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Joined: 17 Dec 2010, 12:15
Location: Kankakee County, IL

Transom wood reclamation.

Post by earl60446 » 20 Sep 2018, 14:34

I would try to construct the new transom wood to fill the void completely.
16ft 1989 Fisher SV-2 w 1988 48hp SPL Johnson "CIGAR BARGE"
(engine looks like a wreck but runs great)
Used to have 1972 14ft Lund w 1977 15hp Mariner
(engine looked great but always ran marginal)
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ProduceMan
Posts: 136
Joined: 14 May 2015, 19:14
Location: San Diego Ca.

Transom wood reclamation.

Post by ProduceMan » 20 Sep 2018, 20:07

Why not just have someone cut some aluminum plate thicker than that void and forget the wood. Maybe somebody can chime in on what thickness to use. 1/4", 3/8" ?
1973 Hewescraft Big Fisherman 14
1980 Johnson 15
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adam_mac84
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Joined: 12 Sep 2018, 20:22

Re: Transom wood reclamation.

Post by adam_mac84 » 24 Sep 2018, 22:00

Image

Easier to see now that it’s painted. Planned on going all the way across the transom with wood. I’ll have to fill that area in. I have some experience in body filler. [emoji848]. Wonder if that’d be an option.


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richg99
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN

Transom wood reclamation.

Post by richg99 » 27 Sep 2018, 13:11

I think that you are 100% correct in filling in the void. If nothing else, a motor clamped over a void will bend and eventually warp the outer board if you don't fill it in.

I love 3M5200 but would not use it to fill such a large area. You should be able to get a thin piece of plywood and cut it to the indent's shape. Glue that piece onto the inside of your large transom structure and everything should be filled and tight.

Have fun!

surfman
Posts: 713
Joined: 29 Dec 2011, 17:29

Transom wood reclamation.

Post by surfman » 01 Oct 2018, 07:36

5200 is gooey and runs if you try to put down a lot, I would use G-Flex epoxy, it is a paste type 2 part epoxy and you can trowel it on and it will fill in the voids. Like 5200 it is basically a permanent application so whatever you decide to use for the transom material make sure it is something that will last.

If you choose to use exterior grade plywood, I would totally encapsulate it in a liquid epoxy like West System brand. I would pre-drill any mounting holes and then epoxy the wood making sure the holes fill in completely with epoxy, then drill them out. You will need to figure out a way to get the transom material to fit up tight to the aluminum using bracing or clamps or you could screw temporary plates through the aluminum skin, those screw holes will need to be filled in with epoxy and sanded smooth.

You will then need to paint over all exposed epoxy with a good marine grade enamel deck paint to help maintain the life of the epoxy, it doesn't hold up well to sun light. Good luck and keep us posted. I attached a link to my repair job, it is solid as a rock and has held up great.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopi ... it=rebuild

Take your time and plan ahead, epoxy has a limited working time so be ready when you start using it.

CedarRiverScooter
Posts: 841
Joined: 13 Nov 2014, 08:01

Transom wood reclamation.

Post by CedarRiverScooter » 01 Oct 2018, 08:24

+1 on the epoxy.

Just want to add that you can thin it with Xylol (about25%) & it sinks deeper into the wood.

Also, if you have any thru holes, use them to clamp during mounting.

Locktite has an economy marine sealant that would work good to mount the wood to the transom.

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