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PostPosted: 28 Nov 2016, 19:07 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Interesting observation. And here I thought I was bettering the standard transom saver. Hmmmmmm

richg99



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PostPosted: 28 Nov 2016, 19:28 
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Joined: 15 Jul 2012, 22:18
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Location: Union, MO.
Seems to me that if the boat is lashed tight to the trailer, the outboard of course, is mounted tight to the transom and the transom saver is mounted from the trailer to the lower unit properly the whole thing should move as one unit. I'd think that a setup that didn't offset the weight of the outboard to where it was pushing down on the transom as opposed to hanging off would be more damaging. If everything is tight the trailer springs should absorb most of the shock.


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PostPosted: 28 Nov 2016, 19:54 
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
I'd think that a setup that didn't offset the weight of the outboard to where it was pushing down on the transom as opposed to hanging off would be more damaging

I believe that the discussion was more about my adding a spring inside of the otherwise solid transom support.

I fully agree with you that a motor just hanging off the end of the transom, and bouncing around on every railroad track, would not be good.

I;ve been using the spring-inside system for a month or so. That is maybe 6 or 8 trips of 50 miles or more one way.

richg99



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PostPosted: 29 Nov 2016, 23:39 
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Location: East Central Florida
Years ago my Gambler bass boat came with a shock absorer type transom saver and I have been using one type or another ever since.



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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2016, 10:07 

Joined: 08 Dec 2011, 22:13
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Location: Highland, Illinois
Any update to adding a spring?
I have a g3 boat. Called both g3 and a local dealer. They both said the same thing, the objective is to keep the engine from moving. How you go about it, is up to you.


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2016, 10:12 
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I am still running mine with the spring compressed very tightly.

There is almost no movement, yet, somehow, I feel that the slight bounce control is best. I have no way of scientifically verifying anything. Just my gut feel.

It sure isn't bouncing all over as it did before, with no transom saver.

richg99



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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2016, 12:28 
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Joined: 25 Feb 2011, 09:23
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Location: Virginia, USA
Buckethead wrote:
Seems to me that if the boat is lashed tight to the trailer, the outboard of course, is mounted tight to the transom and the transom saver is mounted from the trailer to the lower unit properly the whole thing should move as one unit. I'd think that a setup that didn't offset the weight of the outboard to where it was pushing down on the transom as opposed to hanging off would be more damaging. If everything is tight the trailer springs should absorb most of the shock.


^^^ What he said. If you strap down tightly, the whole thing should become one unit with the trailer, and not allow any stress to the transom, up or down.

Having the spring in there would still allow the motor to bounce up and down some. (probably more up) Perhaps not ideal, but I'm sure its way better than nothing! I personally, don't use anything, and my motor is fine.



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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2016, 19:48 

Joined: 20 Dec 2014, 13:23
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Location: Atanta GA area
Movement of the motor is leveraged force on the transom. Rigid mount is easiest on the transom.


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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 06:36 

Joined: 07 Sep 2016, 01:39
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VinTin wrote:
Movement of the motor is leveraged force on the transom. Rigid mount is easiest on the transom.

Not necessarily. When jolts come from the ground up they are mitigated by what is essentially a dampener. It is the best of both worlds. Most all movement from the engine swaying is eliminated and jolts from the ground up dampened.



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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 21:52 
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Location: Union, MO.
I'm thinking thill, vintin and myself are the only ones getting our heads around this.


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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 22:54 
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Since I was the OP....and after three pages of friendly discussion...we probably ought to put this one to bed. The subject has been debated on boating sites ad-infinitum.

I guess it is like Ford or Chevy???

richg99



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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 23:14 

Joined: 07 Sep 2016, 01:39
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Buckethead wrote:
I'm thinking thill, vintin and myself are the only ones getting our heads around this.

Or not... :lol:



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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 23:31 
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You're right about putting this to bed. I guess if we all had the exact same boat, motor and trailer setup then we could compare apples to apples, but obviously we do not. Let's just keep doing what we're doing, especially if it's working, and continue to bounce ideas and thoughts off of one another. Frankly I've learned a lot being a part of this forum and will continue to reply and ask like I always have. Thanks for this thread Rich99.


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PostPosted: 16 Dec 2016, 15:52 

Joined: 05 May 2013, 14:48
Posts: 116
Location: Kaufman, Tx
Put to bed or not, I tend to agree with the view that a transom saver's job is to take pressure off the transom by supporting some of the weight at the lower unit. And I do agree with the above assessment that having all items bound together in a tight fashion is the best route. 3 boats over the last 20yrs, all used typical transom savers with the boats strapped to the trailer, and I haven't experienced a single crack in fiberglass or aluminum yet.

As for the shock of bumps and whatnot while driving down the road, that's what we have tires and springs on the trailer for. I insure my rigs are heavy enough to flex the springs the way they should, and my tires are inflated to a point where they'll eat some of the bumps as well.

To put a spring in the saver means the motor bouncing up and down would then be bumping against the tilt and trim hydraulic cylinder putting undue wear on it/them, assuming the rig is so equipped.

Since we're quoting physics law here, I will too. "For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction". To me, mitigating the action portion of that should be the primary concern, beyond that, the reaction is inevitable. So in my alleged brain, the more shock that is absorbed in the tires and springs, the less has to be dealt with on down the line.

Ultimately, I guess it's all a matter of where we want that shock being absorbed. Sure, some will always make it to the hull and outboard. But my experiences haven't made me concerned so much that I seek to improve upon a system that has, to date, given me no problems.



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PostPosted: 16 Dec 2016, 19:54 

Joined: 07 Sep 2016, 01:39
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The outboard you describe (power tilt and trim) is a mid sized motor. 50hp+? I think the disconnect here is we're comparing apples to oranges. The spring assisted TS's are pretty small and are for smaller outboards. i've had a Tohatsu 18, Honda 25 and Yami 15 and used them. At that weight the spring doesnt bounce...it dampens. If you put a 180lb motor on that same TS it would probably behave just as you describe. It would bounce. As i recall there arent any longer/bigger TS's on the market with springs. If someone were so inclined they could fabricate a TS for any size/weight motor and dial in the correct spring rate and dampening but i dont think the benefits are significant enough to make it worthwhile. However....if you have a smaller outboard...i think they are worth looking at. Similar price as one without.



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