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PostPosted: 16 Oct 2016, 18:12 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
We've all read both sides of this question (Do you need one?).

I POSTED THIS ON ANOTHER SITE. MY CURRENT SOLUTION IS POSTED ON THE SECOND THREAD.

Transom savers, do you need one or not.......

One side says NO..and, with a transom saver, you are transferring the shock from the road bumps directly to your motor. The transom is plenty strong enough and doesn't need help.

The other side says YES. The motor bounces around on the transom and puts undue strain on the stern of the boat.

Not choosing either side....I have a transom saver that came with my former boat. Sometimes I use it (long trips)...sometimes I do not (short easy trips).

My particular transom saver is made in such a way that one square tube slides inside of the other.

I am considering one of two modifications. One would be to simply slide a heavy spring inside of the outer tube. That way, the inside tube would effectively "bounce" against the spring and NOT transfer all of the road bumps to the lower unit.

The other possibility is to add one or two gas shocks on the tubes. Their job would be to do the same thing as the spring but would give both give and take as the trailer hit road bumps.

I actually believe that I saw some sort of configuration with an old fashioned shock absorber on it, many, many years ago.

Any thoughts, comments or suggestions appreciated.

richg99


Last edited by richg99 on 16 Oct 2016, 18:15, edited 1 time in total.


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PostPosted: 16 Oct 2016, 18:13 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
OK Today I added a 3/4 inch (approximate) compression spring to the riser tube. I intend to lower the motor so that it slightly compresses the spring.

Next time out, I'll try to observe what is happening as I go over some bumps. Guess there isn't any real way for me to know if the spring helps much. richg99


IMG_20161016_134452.jpg

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PostPosted: 16 Oct 2016, 19:17 

Joined: 24 May 2016, 21:31
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Location: Southern New Mexico
richg99 wrote:
OK Today I added a 3/4 inch (approximate) compression spring to the riser tube. I intend to lower the motor so that it slightly compresses the spring.

Next time out, I'll try to observe what is happening as I go over some bumps. Guess there isn't any real way for me to know if the spring helps much. richg99



I like the idea. I have been trying to decide myself if I should use one or not.



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PostPosted: 16 Oct 2016, 20:57 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Here is one of the "shock absorbing" transom savers that I found when pursuing this thread on the other site.

It resembles the one that I had, but mine was without the spring. Since I added the spring, I have high hopes that I will have the best of all worlds. richg99

p.s. sorry for the tiny picture. That is all that the site would let me reference.

Image

http://www.marine-products.com/swivl-ez ... 3_dc79630f



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PostPosted: 16 Oct 2016, 21:14 
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I don't have one, but I don't think my little 9.9 needs one, I'd imagine with a larger 4 cycle I'd probably air on the side of caution and have one.



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PostPosted: 16 Oct 2016, 22:06 

Joined: 20 Jul 2014, 22:11
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Location: Oregon
I'd take my chances with having a transom saver, than not using one. Interested to see if shock absorbing makes a difference.


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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2016, 08:12 

Joined: 07 Mar 2011, 19:58
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Location: Harrisonburg, Va.
the transom saver i bought from basspro had several rubber "shock absorbers" in the tube.



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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2016, 08:20 
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lovedr79 Sounds good!

richg99



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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2016, 12:57 
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Location: Eastern Mass
FWIW guys I know that trailer large (24 to 32' or more) center consoles with 1 to 3 OBs prefer the M-Y-Wedge to protect their transoms. It is cushioned.

M-Y-Wedge:
http://www.m-ywedge.com/

I can't say it works better than those bar types, but for large boats and larger trailers, it certainly looks simpler to connect! I'll just add my 2-cents here ... as your mileage may vary ... but to me ...

MORE damage is done to a boat's transom whilst trailering that there EVER is done by running in the water ... unless you hit something or are a complete idiot when running the boat.

The other week I trailered my rig home. I put a piece of hard rubber (is compressible, but I don't know the durometer) in-between the OB and the OB mounting bracket, 60hp OB and tied the hull down well to the trailer. I kept my speeds reasonable, no > 60mph and in the right lane. And I knew my route and went SLOW over any known bumps or if rough surfaces - to avoid if not eliminate any hard jars at speed.

... and yet people towing larger boats home were passing me like I was sitting still ...


M-Y-Wedge.jpg

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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2016, 13:05 
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From what I've read so far, the wedge devices do a great job of protecting the Motor. Obviously they afford little or no protection to the transom.

richg99



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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2016, 13:13 

Joined: 19 Jan 2012, 07:44
Posts: 2926
Location: Northeast Arkansas
richg99 wrote:
I am considering one of two modifications. One would be to simply slide a heavy spring inside of the outer tube. That way, the inside tube would effectively "bounce" against the spring and NOT transfer all of the road bumps to the lower unit.

Any thoughts, comments or suggestions appreciated.

richg99

When I got my current boat, it came with a transom saver. The shaft of the saver was round and about 1.5" diameter. It contained a pretty good size spring that absorbed the bounce every time I hit a bump. The one drawback to the design was not having any means of preventing the two halves from sliding apart. It's a long story, but this actually happened one time. The transom saver was designed to fit over the center roller at the back of the trailer. One ear of the Y that fit over the roller broke off one day, so I modified my trailer (did away with all rollers), and ended up getting a different transom saver and getting rid of the spring loaded model. BTW, even though I've used a transom saver on my boat every since I've owned it, I found hairline cracks on both sides of my boat, right where the transom gusset is welded to the the sides but I'm not positive if those cracks were there when I got the boat or not.



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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2016, 14:41 
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
I thought about the separation issue.

I intend to affix a line from the top to the bottom. It will be loose, but will prevent the two pieces from pulling apart. Thanks richg99



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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2016, 16:56 
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Rich, you're so innovative! You should consider starting a YouTube channel and documenting your DIY projects. There's a huge DIY following to be had out there, especially when it comes to aluminum boats.



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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2016, 21:31 
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Thanks for the kind words. I thought about doing something like that, but laziness got in the way.

I do think that there is an E-book contained the pages of Tinboats.

If someone had the time and ambition and needed a few extra bucks, I'll bet that our illustrious leader JIM would go along, and, of course, split some of the Mega Profits.

My writing and editing days are quickly slipping by. Too many boats and fish..not enough time. Ha Ha

regards, richg99



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PostPosted: 18 Oct 2016, 15:56 

Joined: 15 Apr 2015, 21:57
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I pulled my rig down to the Keys, about a 4 hour haul, a few months after I got her with no transom saver. I could see the 50HP motor bouncing around and swinging side to side even while resting on the "lock". When I dropped it in the water it wouldn't start. Diagnosis, no spark, ignition module failure. Now it was probably coincidence that my 20 year old module just gave up but I was convinced all that banging around led to its demise. I have since always used a transom saver if only for my own peace of mind.
And I just have the cheapo square tube gimmick from Walmart.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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