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PostPosted: 31 Aug 2016, 21:57 
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Joined: 01 Feb 2015, 21:15
Posts: 32
Location: bowling green ky
Just bought a 1448 grizzly and put my 77 evinrude 25 on it, the cavitation plate is exactly 1 inch above the bottom of the hull. the motor had no trouble getting my last 14 foot semi v up but will not plane out on my new 1448. it is also cavitating when its trying to plane, ive tried all trim settings I can on it and still nothing. Do I need to try a jac plate or a hydro foil? or am I over looking something. all help is appreciated.


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PostPosted: 31 Aug 2016, 23:12 

Joined: 24 Dec 2011, 22:06
Posts: 974
Location: 72032
I bought a Yamaha F25 from a guy who had it mounted to a Grizzly 1448. Said similar. Barely would plane. Appears to be a heavy built boat. That said, I did find some problems with the motor but I didn't think those problems would cause it to be so underpowered that it wouldn't plane a little 1448.


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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 02:27 

Joined: 28 Nov 2013, 02:53
Posts: 53
Location: Great far North
Buddy of mine have a Grizzly 1648 SC he has a Mercury 25 four stroke we hunt together for the first two seasons with this motor and it will plane with two persons with a hunting load couple dozens of decoy and scissors blind etc but takes a while but when two just fishing it will plane okay even with the live well full of water.

Perhaps have you check if you're running at the proper rpm with your current prop?

And if your's a tiller possibly the weight distribution?

Mount a trolling motor and a battery near the bow makes a huge difference especially on a tiller but again I will get a tachometer check your running rpm and go from there you will be surprise how the boat run if setup properly when running at the optimal rpm with your particular load even just by moving the gas tank around to find the sweet spot will make a significant difference.

Nothing can cure an underpowered boat but correct pitch prop and weight distribution can help a lot especially if we can get a 1648 to plane with a 25 pretty much same hp as your except it's even heavier ( 4 stroke VS 2 stroke weight )


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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 06:51 

Joined: 19 Jan 2012, 07:44
Posts: 2926
Location: Northeast Arkansas
Have you tried lowering the motor so the cav plate is even with the bottom of the hull? Sounds like you have the motor too high.



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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 08:08 
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Joined: 05 Apr 2009, 08:37
Posts: 1557
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
I have this boat with a 25 Merc 4-stroke. I always fish with two people in the boat. The Merc is very slow out of the hole but does get on plane and gets speeds in the upper 20's. I have T&T on my motor. You may have a weight distribution issue.


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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 08:38 
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Joined: 25 Jul 2013, 16:12
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Location: Henniker, NH
My 14' Starcraft deep V will not plane with 2 people at any trim setting unless I have the hydrofoil installed. I know a lot of people here say that the hydrofoil is not the right solution, it's a Band-Aid for the real problem but I vehemently disagree. Yes, it robs 3 or 4 MPH off my top end, which is a bummer, but my boat hops on plane amazingly fast now with two people.



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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 10:22 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
Posts: 4657
Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
You've already received some good advice above.

Before doing anything else, I'd put a 5-gallon bucket of water up near the bow and see if that helps. If it does, weight distribution will help. Move the battery or some other heavy stuff up front.

If weight distribution isn't the answer, then, I'd try dropping your engine (as recommended above) so that the anti-cav. plate is even with the bottom of the hull.

If that doesn't do it, an inexpensive hydrofoil may help. But, as pointed out above, you will lose some top end speed. For $120 to $150 or so, you could put on Smart Tabs. You will plane quicker and not lose speed.

If that motor is running properly, one of the above may help.

richg99



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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 11:58 
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Joined: 01 Feb 2015, 21:15
Posts: 32
Location: bowling green ky
Thanks a lot guys, I've got the motor as low as it will go. I have a trolling motor and battery up front but I'll try putting some more weight up front. The engine runs like a top so I know it's not the issue, I just hate to cut the transom on a new boat


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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 13:09 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
Posts: 4657
Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
Ahhh ha... Short shaft motor and full-size transom. Heavy boat. Not too much you can do with that. Try the weight distribution.

If that works, rather than carrying around too much weight, they do sell (or you can make) a tiller extender to allow you to move forward and still run your tiller motor.

That may do the trick. The tabs will also help, but we are pretty much just putting a band-aid on the real issue of motor height I think.

richg99



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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 14:16 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1915
Location: CT
Short motor on a long transom you usually need to set the motor back further but I've yet to find any consistent guidance as to how far. You'd be looking for a static set-back plate as you don't need to lift the motor any.



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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 14:34 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
With regard to the suggestion of a setback plate...I don't know how this information can be "reversed" but....

Around here (South Texas) the recommendation for how much one can RAISE their engine when adding a setback plate is One-inch RAISE for each TWO inches of setback.

If we tried to reverse apply that....I'd guess that a two-inch setback plate would put a One-inch too high motor into the correct plane.

Just guessing...and FYI.... richg99



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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 14:51 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
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Location: CT
^^ That's along the lines of what I was getting at - but the recommendations are all over the place depending on who you talk to.

For that sized motor you could just get two random lengths (10"-12") of 3" channel from onlinemetals.com and a random length of 3"x1.25" flat bar and make an offset for ~$40 plus the cost of some hardware at your local hardware store to hold it together. You should have enough material to put a few screw holes in it to play with mounting heights to get it right for your needs.

Channel Link:

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.c ... top_cat=60

Flat Bar Link:

https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.c ... top_cat=60

(random lengths >10" are fine for these transom applications & avoid the cut fees that come with precise lengths)



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For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 15:36 
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Joined: 01 Feb 2015, 21:15
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Location: bowling green ky
Where would the flat bar come into play,


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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 15:39 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
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Location: CT
That's what you would put across the outside of the channels for your motor to clamp onto. If you can bolt on your motor then you won't need it.



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For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 17:46 
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Joined: 01 Feb 2015, 21:15
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Location: bowling green ky
Well I got home and realized I've given y'all incorrect information. I put a level on the anti cav plate to the bottom of the boat and it is maybe an 1/8th inch higher than the bottom of the boat which according to people I've spoken with is right about where you want them


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