It is currently 20 Oct 2018, 17:54
Join the free forum or login with your account and the annoying banner goes away

Xtremeboats

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




 Page 1 of 1 [ 15 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 12:59 
Donor

Joined: 05 Jul 2016, 11:51
Posts: 53
Location: Ohio
How do I (easily?) get the end caps off to replace the rollers from the trailer? I don't have a pic readily available.

It is not a bolt and nut, it's almost like one of these hammer on caps for a kids wagon or something - but seem much harder to remove.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 13:49 
Donor
User avatar

Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 2006
Location: Eastern Mass
I drill through the center of the cap with a ~3/32" cobalt (just because I have them) drill, then use a punch to punch the shaft off the cap, out the other way ...

Allows the cap to be re-used too :wink: .



_________________
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 14:00 
Donor
User avatar

Joined: 02 Mar 2014, 19:52
Posts: 3193
Location: Central FLORIDA - The Sunshine State -
The ones I have come in contact with were not reusable.
I cut them off (carefully) and get new caps from Lowe's.
But, I am often a little aggressive when it comes to stubborn
nuts and bolts LOL !!
grinder.jpg
grinder.jpg [ 18.14 KiB | Viewed 579 times ]








.



_________________
http://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
http://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = http://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = http://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1959 Lone Star Malibu 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 15:15 
Donor

Joined: 05 Jul 2016, 11:51
Posts: 53
Location: Ohio
Johnny wrote:
The ones I have come in contact with were not reusable.
I cut them off (carefully) and get new caps from Lowe's.
But, I am often a little aggressive when it comes to stubborn
nuts and bolts LOL !!


I was thinking of this, and then can I just replace with a standard bolt+nylon lock nut?


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 15:46 
Donor
User avatar

Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 2006
Location: Eastern Mass
weweber3 wrote:
I was thinking of this, and then can I just replace with a standard bolt+nylon lock nut?

Nope ... the caps "press on", as the shaft is not threaded. The extreme ends of the shaft are a tad deformed to catch and hold the rolled lip of the cap.

Before the use of caps however, the ends of the roller shafts had a ~1/8" hole drilled through them and a large washer and SS cotter pin, cotter clip or special 'dog pin' (that's what they were called, squeezed in place they were) would be used to secure the end of the roller. See pictures.


Shaft-Cap.JPG
Shaft-Pin.JPG

_________________
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 15:48 
Donor

Joined: 05 Jul 2016, 11:51
Posts: 53
Location: Ohio
I can get these at HD or Lowes?


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 15:59 
Donor
User avatar

Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 2006
Location: Eastern Mass
weweber3 wrote:
I can get these at HD or Lowes?

Yes, cotter pins will be cheaper. Those bigger pins at the bottom are "cotter clips", not pins ... I erred :roll: on my quick sketch, haha!

Grab a cobalt drill while at it to drill through the shafts, keep water handy, cool the bit off frequently to make the cutting edge last.



_________________
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 16:00 
Donor

Joined: 05 Jul 2016, 11:51
Posts: 53
Location: Ohio
DaleH wrote:
weweber3 wrote:
I can get these at HD or Lowes?

Yes, cotter pins will be cheaper. Those bigger pins at the bottom are "cotter clips", not pins ... I erred :roll: on my quick sketch, haha!

Grab a cobalt drill while at it to drill through the shafts, keep water handy, cool the bit off frequently to make the cutting edge last.


I should have been more clear, can I get the rods at HD/Lowes? What are those called?


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 16:08 
Donor
User avatar

Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 2006
Location: Eastern Mass
No - at big box stores, but yes - at boat stores, or on-line, see: http://www.lowcostboatingstore.com/sear ... ft&search= , for one source.

They are roller shafts. Made in different diameters and lengths.



_________________
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 16:31 
User avatar

Joined: 20 Jun 2016, 23:10
Posts: 120
Location: Bellevue, WA
weweber3 wrote:
can I just replace with a standard bolt+nylon lock nut?


I wouldn't see why you couldn't replace the shaft with an appropriately sized bolt with washers and a nyloc nut or a second jam-nut; you'd just have to make sure that you didn't tighten it too far down on the roller bracket since you want the shaft and the roller to turn freely. One other concern might be the nuts freezing on with rust and being impossible to remove if you need to make a replacement in the future, but if you have a cut-off wheel then it's not a huge issue...or use stainless.

However, you can purchase the roller shafts and pal nuts online at a variety of retailers relatively inexpensively, below is a link to a set on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Tie-Down-86032-Trailer-Roller/dp/B003E1ZIFO/ref=sr_1_1



_________________
"Fair Winds and Following Seas."
-Brent
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 17:05 
User avatar

Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
Posts: 4597
Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
IMHO...it will be a lot easier to cut/tear/shear/ the d@#$ caps off...and then just tap on new d@#$ caps.

Drilling through the shaft to accommodate cotter pins, or their ilk, will take a lot more time than tapping a new cheap cap on.

richg99

p.s.I hate the caps, too, but they do their job.



_________________
“Busy is a choice. Stress is a choice. Joy is a choice. Choose well.”.....Ann Voskamp
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 17:11 
Donor

Joined: 05 Jul 2016, 11:51
Posts: 53
Location: Ohio
If I can get the caps off I'll likely go that route to just replace them. I do like the cotter pin long term... not sure my ability to drill the hole though.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 17:43 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4140
Location: Algonquin Il
I have found the easiest way to drill thru a round shaft is to find a nut that just slides over the shaft then drill thru a flat on the nut and thru the shaft.



_________________
1971 14' Ward's Sea King Jon Boat / 1983 Mariner 25HP
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 17:46 
User avatar

Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
Posts: 4597
Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
I've drilled shafts by putting a "flat" on one side of the shaft and starting the drill there. A good punch would work to start it too.

I've done a number of them when making kayak roller carts. Probably should have just used the caps.

richg99



_________________
“Busy is a choice. Stress is a choice. Joy is a choice. Choose well.”.....Ann Voskamp
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 17:46 
Donor

Joined: 05 Jul 2016, 11:51
Posts: 53
Location: Ohio
lckstckn2smknbrls wrote:
I have found the easiest way to drill thru a round shaft is to find a nut that just slides over the shaft then drill thru a flat on the nut and thru the shaft.


Hot damn, what a great idea!!


Offline
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 Page 1 of 1 [ 15 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: marc4reel, MrGiggles, Scott F and 94 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Join the free forum or login with your account and the annoying banner goes away

eaglelodgemaine