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PostPosted: 28 Jul 2016, 07:13 

Joined: 14 Jul 2016, 12:02
Posts: 7
I just bought a starfcraft 14' and the owner before ne started replacing the transom. I need to finish the job and he removed a bunch of rivets. I am very handy and don't see the job as a big deal but i know nothing about rivets. what rivets do i need? I saw rivet guns are really cheap on ebay but have no idea what rivets to get. thanks in advance


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PostPosted: 28 Jul 2016, 08:09 

Joined: 17 Apr 2016, 19:24
Posts: 115
I recommend getting exact replacement rivets from the manufacturer. Or order them from McMaster -Carr. If you have a small metal lathe you could make them yourself. Process is easy and effective. I do not believe you should buy any rivets requiring special tooling.


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PostPosted: 28 Jul 2016, 08:29 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 2051
Location: Eastern Mass
msasso wrote:
I am very handy and don't see the job as a big deal but i know nothing about rivets. what rivets do i need?

Last year I re-revited my '97 Starcraft back together after getting a complete new tin transom inside & out. I got info from Andy at Starcraft customer support.

To determine the correct length you need, you add up the thickness of your tin you're riveting back together and add the allowance. The allowance is the the amount of the shaft or tail that needs to stick through the tin before you start bucking it, which is typically 1.5 times the diameter of the shaft or tail. A 3/16" rivet (0.1875" diameter) should stick through about 0.281" and when bucked, the tail should then be flattened so that it is now 3 times as wide than it is thick or high.

Believe me, after a few tries in a test piece you'll have the method down easy, as my 12-year old girl just re-riveted back together an old '78 vintage Starcraft 12-footer that I bought for her as her 1st boat, which had some loose rivets.

For rivets, I used 3/16" diameter 'brazier head' solid aluminum (soft 1100F alloy) rivets, of 3/8" and 1/2" lengths, see: http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivets/sol ... ivets.html . I used a $20 air hammer from Harbor Freight, a $10 brazier head hammer tool from various on-line sources (See: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=41248&hilit=brazier), a block of metal as a bucking bar (or this one here, $20: http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Buc ... ts-825.htm) and a borrowed air compressor. I have since bought a small pancake compressor and it works, although would not be ideal for larger jobs.

If you know the quantity and lengths you need, I bought in bulk and may be able to send you some.



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 28 Jul 2016, 08:51 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4143
Location: Algonquin Il
Exactly which rivets are you talking about?
Can you post some pictures?
A lot of times stainless steel nuts and bolt can be substituted for rivets.



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1971 14' Ward's Sea King Jon Boat / 1983 Mariner 25HP
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PostPosted: 19 Aug 2016, 11:20 

Joined: 14 Jul 2016, 12:02
Posts: 7
Thanks guys
that was some great information and a big help. just ordered all my stuff. I got a great deal on a huge mixed batch of rivets from ebay. I have 3 aluminum boats and i have a feeling I am going to fabricate and sell a few or more of them.

I als have a feeling this 14'6" starcraft is going to be transformed into a cool little bay boat


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PostPosted: 19 Aug 2016, 13:17 

Joined: 14 Jul 2016, 12:02
Posts: 7
this is a good link on how to rivet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hB3rIECtxM


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