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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 19:02 

Joined: 19 Jul 2011, 00:32
Posts: 16
Picked up a 1999 Alumacraft Lunker 165 dirt cheap but I knew the boat leaked as the previous owner had tried to spray the leaking area with a rubberized coating. Evidently this was an ongoing problem for the company for several years according to the internet but I've bucked and replaced brazier rivets before and have the proper rivet set bits, air hammer, etc. I got the front deck off and the area of most concern has no foam so it can be easily inspected. I can't see any damage but the rivet backs appear slightly elongated as opposed to the proper "biscuit" look. Also the gap at the bottom nose of the boat where the sides come together has about an inch of sealant missing. Surely this was a mistake but I can't believe it hasn't always leaked???? Was thinking of bucking or replacing some of the rivets then use Gluvit and 3M 5200 sealant. My question is do the rivets and sealing job look normal and if any Alumacraft fans heard about these problems? I've heard one say it's a sealant issue.


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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 20:58 

Joined: 19 Jul 2011, 00:32
Posts: 16
Well I think I answered my own question. I put water in the boat and slowly lowered the front of the boat allowing the water to slowly inch forward. Once it got to the factory caulk it began a small leak and once it reached the gap it was a waterfall.


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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 21:35 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 2051
Location: Eastern Mass
I think you're onto it, only thing I would add is that I personally wouldn't add Gluvit or 5200 to anybare aluminum, but would make sure it was buffed, etched & primed first. A vinegar wash works awesome as an etch wash prior to zinc chromate priming.

Also note that any epoxy product like Gluvit needs to be painted to protect it from UV rays.



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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 21:57 

Joined: 19 Jul 2011, 00:32
Posts: 16
This will be under deck so no worries on UV light. I've never used the product but I've heard that you want it to penetrate seams so don't use it over paint or primer. Sand the aluminum with 80 grit then coat. I'm finding more and more posts about these boats leaking right at the keel due to the lack of sealant along this grooved area.


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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2016, 22:09 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 2051
Location: Eastern Mass
soky72 wrote:
I've never used the product but I've heard that you want it to penetrate seams so don't use it over paint or primer. Sand the aluminum with 80 grit then coat.

... not bad reasoning ... so follow their instructions. I think where I was cautious was when I recall that picture Johnny posted where someone stuck something to the 'bare' hull w/ 5200, and when removing it years later, the aluminum underneath was full of crevice corrosion effects.



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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