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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2016, 12:14 

Joined: 24 Apr 2012, 07:56
Posts: 20
Location: Plano, Texas
I have a 1989 Lowe 1610V. AS I have been working on it, I removed the driver seat post and plate to discover water standing in the hole and soaked foam. I removed the passenger seat post and plate which is over the center of the deck and there was a lot of water standing int there. I have the bow as high as I can without placing it on a cinder block. There was tons of debris under the deck from when the built the boast and it appear that the drain channels under the deck are plugged with dirt and debris. I only have access through the seat post holes from the top side. I thought about pulling the deck up, but I would have to basically remove all of the interior panels and the console to accomplish that....

Any ideas on how to clear out the drain channels?

Thanks!!



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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2016, 12:21 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
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Location: Eastern Mass
Some ideas ....

Being organic matter, I wonder if there isn't an aluminum-safe, foam-safe toilet or pipe clog drain-type cleaner that you could use?

Try a powerful shop vacuum, if you can guide the hose in there. Once taped the hose to a steel rod so I could push it around inside a hull.

Or, get a plumber's snake that is the flat spring steel type and put in from the stern (you must have some stern access) and try to get it under the ribs. I have done this myself - is a pain in the arse, but works - and yet I had somewhat more bilge access.

Consider adding a 6" plastic inspection port in a few areas, maybe fore and aft, form which you could work, plus keep an eye on it in the future, as well as take the covers off and let the hull air out and dry out on warm sunny days.

FWIW, I've done all of the above (less the drain cleaner) on boats, sometime all of them! Believe me when I tell you ... a dry bilge is a happy bilge!



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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2016, 13:25 
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Can you run a wire snake from the transom end forward following the channels from the backside of the boat? I've had good luck with a wire snake with its lower profile compared to a plumbing snake.

If it's caked in dirt you could try blowing water from the transom forward by running a hose up the drain again from the backside - it will flush the dirt out & leave the debris for the snake to hook & pull out.



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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2016, 19:38 
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Joined: 16 Feb 2016, 13:20
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Location: Dearborn, Manton Michigan
I would pull it all out of there

that foam has to be saturated. Pull the floor, replace the foam and do what you have to do to assure proper drainage. The floor (if its wood) is probably rotting too

thats the only real way to fix it right

unless this is something new. If its been like that for any length of time get rid if it



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my build 1976 14ft Meyers V hull

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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2016, 08:27 
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If the round wire snake doesn't work - try to find the FLAT spring wire snake, where the flat portion is 1/4" or bigger. Work "against the coil" so that the tip is always trying to go DOWN ... and you should able to snake it all the way to the bow provided you can get access to start from the stern.

TIP - these flat-wire snakes usually have a bulbous end of them. I bought one used at a flea market for $3 and cut the round end off, leaving it as just flat bare wire and it would great on tin boats. And I have a fleet of them I help maintain, so it sure comes in handy!


Snake.JPG
Plugged Hull.jpg

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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2016, 13:41 

Joined: 24 Apr 2012, 07:56
Posts: 20
Location: Plano, Texas
Thanks All!! Great ideas!! I think I'll go with the wire snake first. I have a fiberglass snake left over from previous work life that might just fit the bill... An did borrowed a Dryer Vent cleaning kit from a buddy. Hopefully that rod will be small enough diameter to go through the drain channels.

Pulling the deck is not an option right this moment as I don't have a garage or shop at this time to be able to devote space to. Once I get that squared away, pulling the deck will be the project. The only wood I can find is right at the seat post holes, so I feel it can wait.

It's really too bad that they leave so much crap in teh boat when they built it!! :x



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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2016, 13:47 
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in that case I would dig through the foam until you hit the hull then suck the water out with a shop vac if nothing else works

Like I said I suspect the foam is saturated with water



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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2016, 16:19 

Joined: 24 Apr 2012, 07:56
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Location: Plano, Texas
Perchjerker,
I agree with you completely. At this point, it's about time and space for me... I will do as you suggest. I have one access point and that is under the drivers seat. I am already thinking about the project for a later date when I can.

Thanks much!!



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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2016, 17:28 
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byounghusband wrote:
Perchjerker,
I agree with you completely. At this point, it's about time and space for me... I will do as you suggest. I have one access point and that is under the drivers seat. I am already thinking about the project for a later date when I can.

Thanks much!!


sure

maybe you can tip the boat one way or the other so the water gets to the access point so you can suck out as much as possible



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