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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2016, 11:03 
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Joined: 05 Jul 2016, 11:51
Posts: 53
Location: Ohio
I have a thread running the projects section of the site but wanted some specific guidance here.

As you can see in the pics below, I put some water inside the boat to test the seams. I have a leak about halfway up the bow and a couple leaks on the side seams. There does not appear to be any leaks from the bottom rivets or the bottom of the transom and up the sides of the transom.

What is the best course of action to repair? Weld all seams - from outside or inside? Use gluv-it - from outside or inside? Or other option?

Thanks all.

Larger Project Thread - http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=41208&p=417521#p417521


bow_seam.jpg
bow_leak_2.jpg
boat_with_water.jpg
side_leak.jpg
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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2016, 11:30 
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Joined: 07 Aug 2014, 12:57
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Location: Central Kentucky
I had 2 leaky rivits on the bottom of my Tracker 1542. the first thing I did (and it worked) was to re-buck the rivits. But I see you have your tin completely gutted, I would re-buck the rivits, then Gluvit the inside. I believe Steelflex on the outside, Gluvit on the inside is how the "Ol' Timers" on Tinboats say it. But please verify that, as I have not used either; yet.



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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2016, 11:46 
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Location: Ohio
I can certainly give the rivets some tapping and try to tighten them up. My concern is this boat is 50 years old and hasn't been used at all for quite some time... get it out on the water and I have more rivets that need re-worked, etc. I would like to do all the prep work NOW and solve the current problems and the future, potential problems.

I have seen others say Gluv-It on the OUTSIDE... which is right?


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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2016, 13:12 

Joined: 05 May 2013, 13:19
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I have the same problem with a boat that is as old. My concern with rebucking the rivets, is that I have read that it could worsen any small cracks that have developed around the rivets. After reading your post about applying the gluvit to the interior or exterior I decided to send an email to the company asking the same question. If I hear back I will post the response here. It would seem to make sense, as far as blocking water from entering, to apply it to the outside of the hull. However, I know my small boat sees contact with sand and gravel beaches from time to time and I worry that this would cause wear on the epoxy.


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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2016, 13:16 
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Location: Ohio
Good call rootbeer. I would like to strip this baby down to the metal, fix leaks, prep, prime and paint.

I like the idea of gluv-it because I can cover all seams and rivets.


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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2016, 14:11 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
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Welding isn't really an option as there was typically a layer of sealing agent between the aluminum on those seams, so heating it up will just cause more problems by wrecking the seal in the area. It's probably the same material that is now failing and allowing leaks to form. Unless you see cracks that aren't visible in the pictures I don't think cracking of the aluminum is the issue so I'd go with rebucking the rivets to start with and see where it gets you before you go gooping everything up.



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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2016, 14:14 
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onthewater102 wrote:
Welding isn't really an option as there was typically a layer of sealing agent between the aluminum on those seams, so heating it up will just cause more problems by wrecking the seal in the area. It's probably the same material that is now failing and allowing leaks to form. I'd go with rebucking the rivets to start with and see where it gets you before you go gooping everything up.


Just to be clear, you mean some tap tap tap on the mushroom side with some heavy flat on the other side to tighten them up?


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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2016, 14:30 
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I use an air hammer with a rivet tool, but you could do the same with a hand hammer, just not sure of how many strikes or how much force it would take.



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For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs, Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2016, 16:43 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
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Location: Algonquin Il
A lot of the older StarCraft made boats develop that leak in the bow. The best fix is gulvit applied from the inside.
Try to remove as much of the old brown factory sealer first.



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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2016, 17:35 

Joined: 05 May 2013, 13:19
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weweber3 I just checked out your build post and your boat is almost identical to mine. I don't have the bow cap and my transom is straight but everything else is the same. Leaks in the bow and the stern. I did track down a few suspect rivets, so maybe I will try and give those a tap. That boat was old when we got it in '78. It's currently being handed down from my father to me. I started driving that boat on my own when I was ten. Too many memories just to sell to someone else. Edited to add that my boat is a Starcraft (still has part of the badge, and the stars on the transom corner brackets.)


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PostPosted: 12 Jul 2016, 00:17 
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I just used an 8lb can of Amazing GOOP Coat-it on my 16 foot Fisher Marine jet jon. I had a few leaky rivets and a couple of poorly welded patches leaking and a new beefed up transom. I would highly recommend this product. Boat is now bone dry. Covered about 80-90 sq feet with it. Applied on the outside of hull below waterline.


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PostPosted: 12 Jul 2016, 11:45 

Joined: 20 Oct 2014, 17:03
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I had the same thing on my 1959 lonestar i cleaned all the seams and rivets with a wire brush ( brass) and then cleaned the inside really really really good. then put on two thin coats of glovit so far not a leak! it seems to hold up well...


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PostPosted: 12 Jul 2016, 11:47 
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Joined: 05 Jul 2016, 11:51
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Location: Ohio
Thanks all!


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PostPosted: 12 Jul 2016, 20:10 

Joined: 24 Mar 2016, 11:14
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Location: Chesterfield, Michigan
Is a quart of Gluvit enough to cover the rivets and seams on the inside of a 14ft boat? I'm going to need to do this soon and I want to make sure I get enough, but that stuff is expensive.



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PostPosted: 12 Jul 2016, 23:25 

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A quart should be plenty.



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