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eaglelodgemaine

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PostPosted: 09 Jul 2016, 20:52 

Joined: 10 Apr 2012, 20:28
Posts: 32
I am working on my Jon boat and am wanting to replace some of the leaking rivets and install new rivets on the ones I removed when I gutted the interior of the boat.
I am looking at rivets on McMaster Carr and have found what I think is the correct rivets to use.
The are called Sealing Blind Rivets and also says they are known as closed-end sealing rivets, they prevent water and air from passing through or around them. Because most of the mandrel is retained, they have higher shear and tensile strengths than standard blind rivets of the same size and material."

I am looking at ordering the 3/16 and the 1/4" Domed Aluminum with steel mandrel.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rivets/=137p8bp

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PostPosted: 09 Jul 2016, 21:07 

Joined: 17 Apr 2016, 19:24
Posts: 115
I would say no. You don't want the steel mixed with the aluminum. I replaced about 30 in my Mirrocraft. I ordered replacements direct from them. It took several weeks to finally get them. My neighbor held a sledge hammer against the rivet head on the outside while I squashed the pin flat on the inside. In only a few wacks the rivet is drawn tight providing a leak proof seal. I had chased the hole first with a drill bit of the same size as the rivet shaft. I believe McMaster can provide them too in the sizes you mentioned. It is easy to draw up a rivet, practice on something if you want to try it. I have added a picture showing a broken rivet. Popp 'em out with a punch , follow with a drill bit, and install the new rivet.


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PostPosted: 09 Jul 2016, 22:25 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4067
Location: Algonquin Il
You want either solid aluminum rivets or all aluminum closed end blind rivets below the water line. You can use standard all aluminum pop rivets above the water line and for interior use.



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PostPosted: 10 Jul 2016, 00:17 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2016, 23:10
Posts: 120
Location: Bellevue, WA
If you get the Aluminum, which has an aluminum mandrel, they should be fine. That is what I used on my boat...though they've only been in for a about a week and the boat hasn't gone in the water yet, so I can't attest to their long term integrity.



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PostPosted: 10 Jul 2016, 08:00 

Joined: 10 Apr 2012, 20:28
Posts: 32
Thanks again... I finished gutting the boat yesterday, got the rotted transom out. Deciding how I'm going to put it back together and lay the boat out. I'll try and post photos today. Thanks again for the help.




enginerd wrote:
If you get the Aluminum, which has an aluminum mandrel, they should be fine. That is what I used on my boat...though they've only been in for a about a week and the boat hasn't gone in the water yet, so I can't attest to their long term integrity.


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PostPosted: 10 Jul 2016, 11:23 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 1559
Location: New England
On solid rivets, the head (mushroom shaped) is hit by the tool with the bucking bar (or sledge hammer) held against the tail (initial diameter size) of the rivet. IMHO if you are going to do more than a few - get the proper tools. The rivet head tool for sn air hammer & bucking bar are ~ $20 each, then borrow or buy, < $20) an air hammer & pancake compressor snd go to town.



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