It is currently 21 Jul 2018, 17:05
Join the free forum or login with your account and the annoying banner goes away

akmccallumco

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




 Page 1 of 1 [ 11 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 14:13 

Joined: 21 Mar 2016, 21:48
Posts: 103
Location: Yukon Ok.
My boat is welded. but dads old 1959 is riveted. I noticed it was taking some water last trip.. Want to seat the rivet rows. What is the go to stuff to use. Keep in mind he is cheap so please recommend accordingly.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 14:44 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4131
Location: Algonquin Il
There are several that work good,
Gluvit, G-flex and a product by Goop that I can't remember the name of at the moment.



_________________
1971 14' Ward's Sea King Jon Boat / 1983 Mariner 25HP
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 15:46 

Joined: 06 Jan 2015, 18:39
Posts: 269
steelflex, coat it, gluv it, and 3m 5200. coat it is likely the best price.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 18:11 
Donor
User avatar

Joined: 02 Mar 2014, 19:52
Posts: 3193
Location: Central FLORIDA - The Sunshine State -
keep in mind, you are only sealing the rivets - not the whole hull.
#1 with cost being a consideration, I would recommend just bucking
the rivets - hammering them back to the way they should be. (that part is FREE)
fill the boat with water first to mark the leakers and go from there.
a tube of 3M-5200 FAST CURE is about 12 bucks a tube but goes
a LONG way with just doing rivets and seams that leak.
Gluvit and SteelFlex is for coating the whole hull - not individual rivets,
but, will work if you have any on hand. Expensive to buy a quart kit of it.
Pappy recommends CA (medium body super glue).
seal from the outside - not the inside.
back to #1 = rebuck the rivets.

jus my Dos Centavos




.



_________________
http://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
http://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = http://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = http://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1959 Lone Star Malibu 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 19:15 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4131
Location: Algonquin Il
Gulvit is just for the rivets and seams and is applied on the interior of the hull.



_________________
1971 14' Ward's Sea King Jon Boat / 1983 Mariner 25HP
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 21:56 

Joined: 05 Mar 2010, 19:54
Posts: 15
Location: Alabama
You can seal the entire exterior with Gluvit, or just the rivets and seams.

I used 3M 5200 (outside) on my rivets, and no leaks.

Academy has it in my local store.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 03 Jul 2016, 07:42 

Joined: 25 Apr 2008, 16:54
Posts: 2025
Location: North Charleston S.C.
Cheap? Keep in mind it is less costly to spend more the first time and do it right than to cut corners and do it over and over again. Peace of mind knowing it is done right goes a long way also.


Online
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 03 Jul 2016, 11:05 

Joined: 21 Mar 2016, 21:48
Posts: 103
Location: Yukon Ok.
I agree about doing it right. if it were mine I would do it right. Remove the rivets, Reseal the metal and install new rivets wet. That is the only RIGHT way to do if it you want my opinion. But its not my boat so I am trying to find something I can use to just seal the rivet seams. Looks like I might be too late. Think he already sealed it. not sure with what yet.. I will post when I know.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 03 Jul 2016, 18:57 
Donor
User avatar

Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 1814
Location: New England
gunz wrote:
I agree about doing it right. if it were mine I would do it right. Remove the rivets, Reseal the metal and install new rivets wet. That is the only RIGHT way to do if it you want my opinion.

To add to that ... I'd make sure to position/block the hull VERY well to avoid having unintentional weight or stress on the pieces while doing do. I think I'd also work a section at a time & pull every 3rd rivet or so, install a Cleco temporary fastener, then re-rivet the ones in that area.

But man ... after putting in just a new transom I can tell you from experience - that your hull would be LIKE NEW 8) !



_________________
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
Online
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 09 Jul 2016, 11:04 

Joined: 21 Mar 2016, 21:48
Posts: 103
Location: Yukon Ok.
Agreed, This is how we do aircraft skin repairs. Clecos are a must. Dad sealed it with some epoxy of some sort. Havent been out to see it yet. But I am sure I will shake my head..

Thanks everyone.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 09 Jul 2016, 11:14 

Joined: 05 Mar 2010, 19:54
Posts: 15
Location: Alabama
If he is happy with his fix... fantastic.


Offline
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 Page 1 of 1 [ 11 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Davescustomdesigns, Google Adsense [Bot], Majestic-12 [Bot], onthewater102 and 105 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Join the free forum or login with your account and the annoying banner goes away

Xtremeboats