everything steelflex

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sdm111
Posts: 35
Joined: 09 Dec 2012, 18:25

everything steelflex

Post by sdm111 » 08 Jun 2016, 18:53

There's tints you can buy to color it. Painting would be pointless and its thick enough imo that you would not have to put anything on the rivets prior

cat tracker
Posts: 5
Joined: 01 Jun 2016, 23:40

everything steelflex

Post by cat tracker » 21 Jun 2016, 12:19

ok so I received my steelflex ( I went with the slick stuff). I have the boat sand blasted, what is the consenses on the best way to apply the stuff???

sdm111
Posts: 35
Joined: 09 Dec 2012, 18:25

everything steelflex

Post by sdm111 » 21 Jun 2016, 18:53

If I were to do it again in hindsight I would use a trowel to spread it out and a stiff paint brush for the edges. And a second person for oh crap moments

cat tracker
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Joined: 01 Jun 2016, 23:40

everything steelflex

Post by cat tracker » 21 Jun 2016, 23:18

sdm111 wrote:If I were to do it again in hindsight I would use a trowel to spread it out and a stiff paint brush for the edges. And a second person for oh crap moments
ic ic what about the initial coat, should I just roll on a thin coat? and how long should I let first coat dry before putting on the heavy coat?

Glades
Posts: 1
Joined: 01 Nov 2016, 17:56

everything steelflex

Post by Glades » 03 Nov 2016, 15:44

Well after reviewing all these pages and posts here and in a lot of other forums I put the steelflex superslick on the bottom on my 14x36 jon boat w pods.
Prepped everything per all the posts.
I got my 4" foam rollers and per one post I read (don't remember who but thanks a LOT) I got a 10" squeegee from Home depot and pulled the rubber piece out and cut it in half and slid it back in to the frame so it would fit between the ribs.
I decided to do a test of the stuff so this morning I took about a tablespoon of each part, mixed it up and pored it on the one pod. I used the squeegee to spread it and then lightly brushed it (I didn't want to hit that small area w a dry roller).
It spread pretty nice and it was good to see the consistency of the mixed product.

So earlier this afternoon I got my wife to help me. I mixed 1 quart (1 pint of each) and set at it. I poured small ribbons of the mixed product on the hull on the space between the ribs one at a time.
Then I used the squeegee to spread it. THAT works AMAZING!!!! I read of others using a trowel but the flex in this was perfect.

So I spread it on the length of each section and my wife followed up with the roller making it even and also doing the raised ribs.
I went up the sides about 2" and only about half way up the front slope.
It took us 25 min and I only used that one quart and presto, we were done!
Having 2 people I think made this a pretty easy job.
Thanks to everyone's suggestions. Hopefully this may help others.
LT

Bigtuna19
Posts: 2
Joined: 10 Aug 2017, 10:09

everything steelflex

Post by Bigtuna19 » 10 Aug 2017, 12:29

Will steel flex plug small cracks and seal small weeping rivets ?? And is just one coat enough protection I'm curious ?? I use the boat in the salt water mainly bays and coves

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Johnny
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Joined: 02 Mar 2014, 19:52
Location: Central FLORIDA - The Sunshine State -

everything steelflex

Post by Johnny » 10 Aug 2017, 12:54

Welcome Aboard, Tuna !

this is a photo of the bottom of my aluminum boat with solid rivets.
the SteelFlex was applied over the existing rivets before I bought it.
I have no idea if they leaked before the SteelFlex or after.
so - it really depends on how much flex you have in your hull and
how rough any previous owners pounded it in rough waters.
IMHO - all leakers should be fixed (rebuck the rivets) prior to application of any bottom coating.
Dale recommends the G/Flex-650 epoxy made by West System and
our local Motor Guru (Pappy) recommends Super Glue to slow leakers prior to any coating.
and others have recommended Gluvit for the interior sealing process.
jus my Dos Centavos
leaking rivets 001.JPG

.
http://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
http://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = http://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = http://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1959 Lone Star Malibu 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse

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DaleH
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Location: Eastern Mass

everything steelflex

Post by DaleH » 10 Aug 2017, 14:31

Bigtuna19 wrote:Will steel flex plug small cracks and seal small weeping rivets ?? And is just one coat enough protection I'm curious ?? I use the boat in the salt water mainly bays and coves
I'd use the G-Flex 650, only $20 for a 2-part 4-ounce (each bottle) kit around here (Nor'East US). You will only be mixing a capfull of each to do a ton of rivets. Use a little heat, as shown in link below, to allow it to weep in.

Not only is this a more co$t effective way to do what YOU need, you can get it locally and it stays adhered even when flexed.

See: https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopi ... =3&t=40954

I have a few embedded links in there, so look at all of them, as one specifically addresses patching holes.

Be aware all epoxies (less special mixes) are prone to degradation to UV exposure, so topcoat it if you can. On the bottom, I just clean off the anti-fouling paint well (if used) make the seal and top-coat with new paint. But I moor my boats 24/7, so they need the AF paint.
#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548

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