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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2016, 17:08 
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Joined: 29 Nov 2006, 21:00
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Location: Shrewsbury, MA
I took the plunge and purchased a CVA Wolf Muzzleloader from Dicks Sporting goods. It came with the Konus scope and it was on sale from $249, to $229. I also had a $10 rewards gift card so it was $219 + tax out the door. I purchased some Winchester 209 primers and 777 pellets (man those things are dirty?). I also chose to use powerbelt aerolite 250 grain bullets. After cleaning it, I took it to the range and sighted it in 2-inches high at 50 yards. I just extended my deer season by 3 weeks. Anyone have any feed back or tips?

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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2016, 19:50 

Joined: 17 Apr 2016, 19:24
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Really nice


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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2016, 23:16 

Joined: 07 Mar 2011, 19:58
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Location: Harrisonburg, Va.
Sweet



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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 00:37 
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Joined: 15 Jul 2012, 19:53
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Location: Eureka, MO
Congrats! More hunting options



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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 09:26 

Joined: 21 Jul 2011, 10:31
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Location: palmerton pa.
Nice! I see you're using powerbelts, but I'll throw something at you that I was told when I called Traditions, and it is also in writing in the TC literature, plus I called TC also.
I use Sabots in both my inline and flintlock, and was told "NOT" to use bore butter by Traditions, and that same info. is included in the TC literature.
Something about how it interacts with plastic and will make it very hard to load and will also effect accuracy somewhat. Also the plastic skirt will wipe the grooves of the lube and it will be between the projectile and the powder. They said to really scrub the barrel and get it out if used prior, and to shoot the sabots without using any lube which is meant to be used with patch and ball or lead projectiles.
TC makes 1000 lube+, I don't believe they would tell you not to use it with plastic sabots if there weren't something to that!
I'm sure some will disagree with what I posted here, but two of the manufactures of these guns are saying this. Mind you, I'm using the full plastic sabots, not powerbelts, so with just that little plastic skirt it may not be as critical.
Just something to keep in mind down the road if you ever decide to go to the sabots, I've had good luck using them and WAY CHEAPER to shoot than powerbelts.
Happy hunting!

BTW: The local Walmart has the 1 lb cans of RS pyrodex for $5.00, and the 100 pk. of 50/50 pellets for $9.00, and lots of both!
Just thought I would mention that!!! :P :lol:


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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 10:20 
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Thanks for the info. I am glad the powerbelts do not use Sabots.

Too much to learn here already. :lol:



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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 11:25 

Joined: 19 Jan 2012, 07:44
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Location: Northeast Arkansas
I use bore butter in my Remington inline, but I have always run a clean patch down the barrel after applying the butter and before I load the next bullet just as a precaution against what you mentioned, but I've never had to worry about "scrubbing" it out. I think the reason some people have that issue is because they go overboard with the bore butter. Either way, to each his own. I found that ramming that bullet home to it's seated position is 10x easier if I have used some bore butter within the last few shots. Besides making it easier to load, I've found that I get slightly better groupings when I use the butter. Now, all that being said, all bullets are not equal. Some sabots will ram home easier than others. Once you start trying different brands, you'll see what I mean.



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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 11:39 
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How do you push the bullet down, do you use the included Jag? It was unclear in the manual.



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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 11:50 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
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Jim wrote:
How do you push the bullet down, do you use the included Jag?

My bros use modern in-lines (ack, ack, cough, cough ... yuck, yeech ...) and use the special jag that rotates as the ramrod is pushed down the bore, so the projectile engraves to the rifling and doesn't tear.

They also find best accuracy with loose powdah loads.

I can't comment, as I only use real black powdah and real (or replica) black powdah arms, and yes ... one of them is an in-line, albeit circa 1811 :wink:



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PostPosted: 20 Dec 2016, 11:42 

Joined: 19 Jan 2012, 07:44
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Location: Northeast Arkansas
Jim wrote:
How do you push the bullet down, do you use the included Jag? It was unclear in the manual.

That's what I use.



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PostPosted: 31 Dec 2016, 22:14 
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Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 00:13
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Location: Bucks Co., PA
Get any deer with it?



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PostPosted: 01 Jan 2017, 00:03 
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Season ended today :(

Went out more than a dozen times and spent many hours in the woods.

Tag soup for Jim. Learned allot and will get them next year.



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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2017, 21:52 
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Joined: 08 May 2017, 21:42
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Location: Southeast Florida (Tri county)
I never used black powder, I started with Pyrodex and never looked back. It cleans up way easier, stays drier, and isn't explosive. Try it.

In a .45 or .50 cal try making your own (or buying) lubed Thompson Center maxi balls with lead, no patch and you can literally knock down small trees (up to 3-4") with them. They're 320-370 grains of killing machine that no patched ball on the planet can equal in energy. You may give up a few yards of downrange but out to typical woods hunting distances, WOW!

The wax self lubricates the bore, no sticky messy patches, no sabot melted in the bore, easier to clean bore, faster to load than patched balls and with pyrodex they are hard to beat, scratch that, impossible to beat. :-)

maxi_balls.jpg
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PostPosted: 03 Jun 2017, 06:05 
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Interesting, Thanks!



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