Check Engine Light

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KMixson
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Check Engine Light

Post by KMixson » 29 May 2017, 06:50

The light did not come on this morning on my way to work. They were not working on the road this morning I guess due to the holiday. The slolam setup was still at the construction site but there was no one there. I am beginning to wonder what kind of chemicals they are using for the construction?

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lovedr79
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Check Engine Light

Post by lovedr79 » 29 May 2017, 09:01

Interesting.
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Captain Ahab
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Check Engine Light

Post by Captain Ahab » 30 May 2017, 07:49

KMixson wrote:The light did not come on this morning on my way to work. They were not working on the road this morning I guess due to the holiday. The slolam setup was still at the construction site but there was no one there. I am beginning to wonder what kind of chemicals they are using for the construction?

There maybe chemicals involved #-o
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KMixson
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Check Engine Light

Post by KMixson » 05 Jun 2017, 12:06

It did it again. Same place as always. They were working on the road this morning when I came through there. I don't exactly know what they are doing but it is screwing with my vehicle.

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Check Engine Light

Post by lovedr79 » 08 Jun 2017, 09:44

dang! that is crazy!
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Johnny
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Check Engine Light

Post by Johnny » 08 Jun 2017, 09:57

next time you drive through that area - roll down your windows
and turn off the A/C and see if you can smell anything like
fresh asphalt or any other "out of the ordinary" smells.

a few weeks ago, Central Florida had some pretty bad forest fires
and on one particular fire, the smoke plume was pretty high and
a passenger jet from the Orlando airport flew through it . . . .
the smoke fumes (maybe carbon monoxide?) was sucked into the
plane and two flight attendants actually passed out, several passengers
started throwing up and the plane quickly turned around and made a
distressed landing back at the airport ..... many went to the hospital
with undetermined symptoms which later was determined to be from the ground fire smoke.

never can tell about these things - on land or in the air.

if you were on Florida's East Coast, I would blame it on the Bermuda Triangle Complex.



.
Last edited by Johnny on 08 Jun 2017, 15:09, edited 1 time in total.
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KMixson
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Check Engine Light

Post by KMixson » 08 Jun 2017, 14:30

There is a very strong smell of asphalt when I go through there. There is no need to roll the window down to smell it. I think they tear up the asphalt at night and lay it back down before the morning rush. They work from 10PM to 6AM according to their caution signs. They are usually laying the asphalt back down at 4:15AM when I go through there. It is just a small section of road of about 100 feet in distance. They are working at laying a pipe underground across the road in my best guess. It is a four lane road with a center turn lane and right shoulders on both sides. As you approach it if you are in the far right travel lane you will cross the left lane and be in the middle turn lane and then turn back to the right to get into the right lane again all in the distance of about 100 feet.

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Johnny
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Check Engine Light

Post by Johnny » 08 Jun 2017, 15:06

I am far far FAR from being any kind of mechanic !!

but - does anyone think that if a loose or leaking vacuum hose could suck
in enough asphalt fumes to trigger the C.E.L. ??


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http://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
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1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1959 Lone Star Malibu 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse

KMixson
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Check Engine Light

Post by KMixson » 08 Jun 2017, 15:28

Actually, I am a mechanic. A leaking vacuum hose could trigger the light even without sniffing asphalt fumes. That is why in an earlier post I mentioned the slalom type detour they have thinking that the side g forces may be causing a vacuum line to crack open just enough as I go through there to trigger the light. Now which one? That is the question? This car has some lines in some very hard to get to places. I dread going that deep into it.

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Check Engine Light

Post by Johnny » 08 Jun 2017, 16:26

I had to replace all the vac lines in my '97 Dodge Ram B3500 van
and I got about 10% into it and took it to the auto repair shop.
so yes - trying to find a leak is next to impossible. easier to just start
replacing the ones that are easy to get to and let a professional handle the rest.
in my case, I found a few of the little plastic connectors had cracked or broken.
http://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
http://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = http://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = http://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1959 Lone Star Malibu 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse

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LDUBS
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Check Engine Light

Post by LDUBS » 09 Jun 2017, 11:35

KMixson wrote:Actually, I am a mechanic. A leaking vacuum hose could trigger the light even without sniffing asphalt fumes. That is why in an earlier post I mentioned the slalom type detour they have thinking that the side g forces may be causing a vacuum line to crack open just enough as I go through there to trigger the light. Now which one? That is the question? This car has some lines in some very hard to get to places. I dread going that deep into it.
Can you duplicate the slalom turns in another area to see if the light comes on? If it does, then your suspicion will be proven. If not, then it is kinda like the twilight zone.

One thing for certain. When trying to find something like this, it will always be in the last place you look. Hahah.
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KMixson
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Check Engine Light

Post by KMixson » 09 Jun 2017, 14:28

Yeah, what scares me is that the EVAP canister is above the fuel tank. You pretty much have to drop the tank to get to it unless you have tiny arms and are double jointed. You also have to get the car in the air on a lift to do it. That is even if that is the problem. I don't want to go through all that and it turns out to be something else.

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Check Engine Light

Post by Stumpalump » 09 Jun 2017, 16:00

The owners of yota and Honda believe that "they last forever". This leads their belief that oil changing and routine maintnence are a waste. Notice the cheapest China tires on the used ones. "Why buy a real tire when it eats them?" It eats them because the front end part that's been bad for 75,000 miles was never fixed. Pull a radiator cap. Yep...It has original corroded fluid. The car here has a problem. If it's not a gas cap then it's asphalt fumes..??.. Dude you have an evaporative emission code. You could drive over an oil well fire and it won't set that code. Swap parts or pay the $99 diag fee to let a local ASE guy smoke test it. It's not rocket science or hard to fix but it needs a lift, a smoke machine and a guy that fixed evaporate problems all week long. I fix most of my own stuff but that code is not worth buying and swaping the wrong parts. You might wind up with just a leaky hose anyway. In the meantime you are causing the worst of the worst pollution. Raw gas vapors. Can you say Boom! A shop will pump in smoke, actuate valves and look for the leak. If no leak then a few test points with a meter. Let a shop fix it. Oh but wait....Your a Toyota guy and they run forever. I'll make a bet...The thing is so run down and needs so many other service and repairs you don't have the balls to show up or have zero intentions to maintain it properly. Not trying to bust your balls but that's what I saw all day long when I managed a Midas. Pay for a diag. A minor fault code that gets neglected will hide a major one that may pop up and ruin your motor.
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KMixson
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Check Engine Light

Post by KMixson » 09 Jun 2017, 19:57

Stumpalump, I agree. I like to keep my vehicles in excellent mechanical shape. The problem with taking this car to the dealer or a local shop is the cost. Actually this is my girlfriends car. I bought a new Hyundia Sonata and gave it to her and I am driving her Toyota. I see the reason why so many people here are reluctant to take their car to be maintained is the extremely high cost. For instance, she had the right front brake caliper go bad and took it to the Toyota dealer here. She had it replaced for $3500.00 dollars. Since I have had the car the left front caliper went bad and I replaced it for $125.00. She also had an ignition key made for it one time and the cost was close to $300.00. I can get one for close to $20.00.

Local shops are not much better. I had my A/C compressor clutch go out in my 1994 pick-up back in 2004 and took it to the dealer since I didn't have a vacuum system to reclaim the refrigerant at that time. They gave me a price of $1600.00 for parts only. I told them no. I had done my homework and the parts would only cost me $400.00. I then took it to a local shop and they gave me a price of $800.00. I told them to go ahead and fix it and left it with them. They called me that afternoon and told me they could not get the parts. So, I asked them if I bought the parts could they install them? They said yes. I bought the parts and had them install them and they only charged me $200.00 for the installation. I have my own vacuum pump, recovery machine, gauges and A/C tools now so I can do A/C work now.

On another occasion I had my vehicle serviced at a Jiffy Lube one time and they put transmission fluid in the master cylinder causing every rubber part in the system to swell up and lock the brakes. They ended up paying the dealer for the repairs on that one. I had a nail get into my truck tire one time and took it to a tire shop. They wanted $45.00 to put a plug in it. That is why I am leery of auto shops.

I do pretty much any work on vehicles except rebuild automatic transmissions, front end alignment on passenger cars(although I do it for large class 8 trucks), and major body work. BTW, just a little background about me. I am the lead mechanic at Allied Aviation in Charleston S.C. I am contracted to maintain the fuel trucks that service the new commercial aircraft and maintain the fuel farm for Boeing in Charleston S.C. I also maintain fuel trucks at another small airport nearby.

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Stumpalump
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Check Engine Light

Post by Stumpalump » 10 Jun 2017, 01:00

I hate to recommend you to a Midas type place because but they charge a flat diagnostic fee. Once they quote you the problem you can call around for a part price or at least be informed so they don't rip you off. Hang out and let them show you the problem. Those problems take 2 minutes to 2 hours with every guy in the shop looking for the leak. That is why I said to pay for the diag. Another option is go online and get a 17.99 oil change coupon. Tell them the check engine light comes on. They sometimes trouble shoot for free hoping you will approve the $75 repair. I did that every day. That $3500 break problem...Could it have been a Master cylinder? Some of those are as rar as hens teeth and for common Toyota models. They come only from a dealer and yes it's thousands. Your other option is shot gunning the parts but what one? There are more specific forums that can lead you to what has fixed others. Next you break a nipple on a gas tank or canister or crack an odd hard line....I saw a few that were the tank pressure sensor. Gotta drop the tank. The other thing that fixes some is buying a gas cap from a dealer. It doesn't fix all of them but aftermarket gas caps are a real crap shoot. Your last option if you can pass emission inspection is to leave it unless you smell raw gas. Your problem is associated with raw gas and the fumes. It won't hurt anything if it's not leaking. Other codes like lean or my favorite thermostat errors are a problem. They don't fix the code for a bad thermostat but come back in 6 month and spend thousands to replace the cat that the cold engine ruined due to a rich condition.
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