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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2017, 07:41 

Joined: 25 Apr 2008, 16:54
Posts: 1943
Location: North Charleston S.C.
I was going to take it to the Toyota dealer this morning but I think I will take it to Precision Tune after reading your post and see what they come up with. I did purchase a new Toyota brand OEM gas cap a couple of weeks ago and it still threw the code. As for sniffing fumes, the system is not sniffing fumes. It operates on pressure and vacuum. Fumes should not set off the light. My problem is it only does it at a certain location only when the construction crews are working. I have driven about a mile away from the construction site when the light comes on. That is odd. At first I was thinking the O2 sensor might me sniffing something but it would throw a different code if that was the case. I have recently been thinking maybe driving over the hot asphalt that has just been laid might be changing the pressure in the lines just enough to throw the code.

The brake problem she had was just for the right front caliper. The master cylinder is still the original cylinder.


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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2017, 17:48 

Joined: 25 Apr 2008, 16:54
Posts: 1943
Location: North Charleston S.C.
I had my car tested and they found no problem. They recommended replacing the vapor canister vent solenoid to "see" if that would cure it. This is what I was scared of. I can throw parts at it myself but I don't like to do that.


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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2017, 17:59 
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yikes ! a Toyota vapor canister is roughly $285.00 on line.
vapor can.jpg
vapor can.jpg [ 24.15 KiB | Viewed 635 times ]

that is why I am NOT a mechanic !!!



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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2017, 19:58 

Joined: 25 Apr 2008, 16:54
Posts: 1943
Location: North Charleston S.C.
Johnny wrote:
yikes ! a Toyota vapor canister is roughly $285.00 on line.
vapor can.jpg

that is why I am NOT a mechanic !!!



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And the bad part is that is is mounted above the fuel tank. That is why you have to drop the tank to replace it. You know, years ago you would open a hood and look at the engine. Now you open the hood and you have to dig for hours before getting a glimpse of the engine and it is continually getting worse. I work mostly on diesel trucks which are not quite as bad but seem to be going in that direction.


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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2017, 20:57 

Joined: 07 Mar 2011, 19:58
Posts: 2348
Location: Harrisonburg, Va.
Vapor can is a pain to replace. Did one on a subaru once. Lots of vacuum lines.



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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 03 Jul 2017, 05:58 

Joined: 25 Apr 2008, 16:54
Posts: 1943
Location: North Charleston S.C.
Update. It did it again. I have not come through there in a couple of weeks and the light has not come on. As I was coming through there this morning it came on again. The construction is apparently wrapping up. Most of the equipment is gone and the road is straight again. They still have a few barrel markers off the side of the road. Maybe it is something else other than the construction? There is a BBQ place I pass there about a quarter mile from where the light comes on. Maybe they are cooking through the night to have to be able to serve the slow cooked BBQ. I don't know? I replaced the gas cap with a Toyota cap and had my car taken to be checked and Precision Tune found no problems with it.


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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 04 Jul 2017, 11:19 

Joined: 07 Mar 2011, 19:58
Posts: 2348
Location: Harrisonburg, Va.
Interesting. Will be interesting when they complete the work. Maybe your car is telling you to stop for BBQ



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 Post subject: Re: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 07 Jul 2017, 08:28 

Joined: 09 Jun 2017, 10:29
Posts: 6
Most codes on the cars are tripped by specific scenarios. For instance. I got a code for my catalytic converter on my forester. It always happened on the highway and no where else. The car was purchased used from a dealer and had a 60 day warranty. I was not going to pay for a new Cat. So they check it and cant find anything twice. Reflashed the computer with new Subaru firmware. Took it for rides around the dealer. No luck. It will also go out after a few starts of the car. By this time i got the factory manual. Sure enough for every code there is a driving scenario used to replicate the code error if you have one. In my case. If you get this code to verify it you need to drive over 50 mph for at least 10 minutes before it will trip. I explained this to the dealer and they fought back a little. So I told them I would bring them a copy of the factory manual so they know how to check for it. They didn't like to hear that. Sure enough they take it on the highway and find the problem. Bad catalytic converter. Which cost them $1000.
What i am getting at is the factory manuals have details like this. You could be just going in the right speed range, load on motor is just right and the sensors in the correct sensing mode and you trip the code because of those factors at that location. It may have nothing to do with construction, meth labs, pot smokers or pig smokers. Just the conditions and parameters on the cars systems at that time. Makes it hard to diagnose for anyone if thats the case. Only way would be to use a data logging scanner to see whats going on with the sensors and motor loads just before it trips. These types of repairs get very expensive at dealers because of labor.
My suggestion: get a copy of the actual factory shop manual and see if there is a procedure to replicate this code and what parameters affect it.


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 Post subject: Re: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 11 Jul 2017, 08:41 

Joined: 07 Mar 2011, 19:58
Posts: 2348
Location: Harrisonburg, Va.
originalspacerob wrote:
Most codes on the cars are tripped by specific scenarios. For instance. I got a code for my catalytic converter on my forester. It always happened on the highway and no where else. The car was purchased used from a dealer and had a 60 day warranty. I was not going to pay for a new Cat. So they check it and cant find anything twice. Reflashed the computer with new Subaru firmware. Took it for rides around the dealer. No luck. It will also go out after a few starts of the car. By this time i got the factory manual. Sure enough for every code there is a driving scenario used to replicate the code error if you have one. In my case. If you get this code to verify it you need to drive over 50 mph for at least 10 minutes before it will trip. I explained this to the dealer and they fought back a little. So I told them I would bring them a copy of the factory manual so they know how to check for it. They didn't like to hear that. Sure enough they take it on the highway and find the problem. Bad catalytic converter. Which cost them $1000.
What i am getting at is the factory manuals have details like this. You could be just going in the right speed range, load on motor is just right and the sensors in the correct sensing mode and you trip the code because of those factors at that location. It may have nothing to do with construction, meth labs, pot smokers or pig smokers. Just the conditions and parameters on the cars systems at that time. Makes it hard to diagnose for anyone if thats the case. Only way would be to use a data logging scanner to see whats going on with the sensors and motor loads just before it trips. These types of repairs get very expensive at dealers because of labor.
My suggestion: get a copy of the actual factory shop manual and see if there is a procedure to replicate this code and what parameters affect it.


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the dreaded subaru P0420 code. that code disappeared after i replaced head gaskets.



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 Post subject: Re: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 13 Jul 2017, 11:24 

Joined: 09 Jun 2017, 10:29
Posts: 6
Definitely not a head gasket in my case. My car is a 2011 with the FB25 motor. Doesn't have the head gasket problems of the older ones.


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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 31 Jul 2017, 06:55 

Joined: 25 Apr 2008, 16:54
Posts: 1943
Location: North Charleston S.C.
I did a test this morning on my way to work. I stopped about two miles before where the light comes on and made sure that there were no active or inactive codes thrown with my OBD II meter. All was clear. I drove through there as I normally would and like clockwork the check engine light came on. This is befuddling me. If I didn't see it I wouldn't believe it. After it came on I stopped and cleared the code and then drove the rest of the way to work without a problem. It will not come back on until I come through there next Monday morning. That is the way it works.


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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 02 Aug 2017, 16:26 
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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 12 Aug 2017, 18:02 
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Joined: 10 Apr 2011, 06:19
Posts: 565
Location: New River in Virginia
I've read this thread and would almost bet that there is some form of electrical interference from, well, who knows what. It could be the road sign they use for info to drivers.







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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 02 Oct 2017, 13:28 

Joined: 07 Mar 2011, 19:58
Posts: 2348
Location: Harrisonburg, Va.
still doing it?



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 Post subject: Check Engine Light
PostPosted: 02 Oct 2017, 14:57 

Joined: 25 Apr 2008, 16:54
Posts: 1943
Location: North Charleston S.C.
Yes, it does. I have a video of it now and can't seem to get it uploaded to this site. It is MP4 format and I can't get it to load on here. I tried to convert it to MOV format but I can't get the whole video changed to that format without buying the full version of the converter.


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