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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2018, 11:16 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1933
Location: CT
Picked up an old Tracker III and found an '88 Mercury 60hp 2 stroke to ride on the back. Learned a lot on my 1436 Alumacraft build, so wherever possible I'll be using solid rivets for joining the aluminum support angles together and any poured foam that goes in will not be allowed to block the drain channels stamped in the bottom of the boat.

Plan is to gut everything and install a rod locker running from the bow to under the steering wheel along with a larger front deck with lockable storage compartments. I'll be replacing the bench with a setup allowing for more storage beneath the bench seating area along with a folding extension for the rear deck which will cover the bench when not in use. Trying to maximize the amount of lockable storage space available while also adding more elevated surface areas. The inaccessible spaces will for the most part be filled with expanding foam, but each compartment will first have the drainage channels capped in FRP and then be lined with painter's plastic prior to pouring foam, the goal of which is threefold:

1) none of the drainage channels will be blocked
2) the foam will formed to the cavity but not be bonded to the boat hull making it removable
3) the plastic should form a vapor barrier so the foam will not be in direct contact with any drainage waters

My plan starting out is to cap the bow and have a hatch to allow access to the storage space and wiring (trolling motor & nav lights) underneath. Framing this looks to be a bit tricky with the round gunwales. I will be using aluminum sheeting for all the decking surfaces. The final finish will not be carpet, though going in I'm torn between a textured paint and marine vinyl, the jury will have to wait to decide on that later. I'll be sharing the trolling motor and fishfinder electronics between this rig and my 14'. As much as I'd like to make this a center console I won't have room for both the rod locker and the storage boxes I want if I use this configuration, so it'll be staying a side steering setup. Hoping to add a 3rd seat base for trips with both my kids. It'll be a tight squeeze in what is basically a 1648 but we'll make it work.

I got ahead of myself on the tear down and already had the steering wheel out before I remembered to take a before picture, so this is all I've got:

Image

It was in OK shape, the plywood decks were starting to show soft spots and the mild steel base for the bench seat left a lot to be desired. The original bench was not in a condition I considered to be worth trying to restore, it has a 1/2 dollar sized hole in one spot, all the seams are separating and the foam needs replacing, but if someone thinks otherwise they're welcome to it just send me a PM.

Gutting went well enough, I'm going to leave the original framing in I think and work around it.

Image

Removed the foam from one of the compartments up front. Slicing through it with an old-school hand saw makes it easy to remove in chunks.

Image

And one last shot of the emptied out compartment, still needed to clear the drain channel that was clogged with foam:

Image

Made up 10 rod tubes for the front using the RichZ heat gun and wine bottle trick. Once flared on the wine bottle I heated themn a second time and pressed them down on a cold floor tile to make a flat flange. After test fitting an arrangement I think I'll be able to add 6 more rod tubes outside the starboard locker along the port side of the boat (3 running forward, 3 running aft-ward), so I'm going to have to get 3 more pieces of pipe as these were all cut in half to 5' lengths and I think the others will need to be cut unevenly (6' forward / 4' aft). Having room on board to store 16 rods below decks in a 16' boat will be awesome.

Image

That's it for now - waiting on an 1 11/16 Forstner bit from amazon to drill the holes for the tubes through the existing support panel. In the mean time I'll get the rest of the old carpet adhesive removed, get the foam out on the port side and the rear quarter to allow me to install the extra 6 tubes and start framing everything.



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For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2018, 11:28 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 2069
Location: Eastern Mass
Dayum ... impressive plans! But knowing of you - you are most certainly up to it =D> !

I like your fore-to-aft rod storage idea! I may shamelessly steal that ... as I fit 8 saltwater rigs in my present tackle locker, but if I remove some foam and go aft, I'd have room for the Sabiki rod and dedicated trolling rods.



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2018, 15:19 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1933
Location: CT
My only issue going aft is along the side is a block of foam in a side compartment - I'd prefer to bore into it and set the tube in the bore but I'm not sure if I can core the poured urethane foam by driving a piece of PVC with a sharpened end into it. If I can't then I have to open the compartment and re-fill it with foam once the rod tubes are set, which will cost quite a bit more for the extra 3 cubic feet of expanding urethane foam but it will be done right...

Though if you've only got polystyrene in there then you'll be fine core punching it.



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I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.


For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2018, 17:17 

Joined: 29 Jun 2016, 19:36
Posts: 648
Location: middle of NC
Look forward to seeing it come together. I imagine paint would crack on top of anything flexible like aluminum. Not sure how much alum sheet costs but 1/4" composite is about $90 per 4' x 8' at Piedmont Plastics which weighs the same as 1/2" ply.



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16 ft Sea Nymph w/30 Johnson
14 ft Monark w/25 Merc XD sold
1994 Lowe 1605 w/50 Evinrude sold
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2018, 17:39 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 2069
Location: Eastern Mass
Nidacore?



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2018, 17:43 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1933
Location: CT
Paint has held up fine on my FRP decking in my 14' boat.

I finally scored a trove of scrap aluminum after a lot of searching, granted a lot of it is 6061 T6 in .03125" thickness, but I'll work with the material I have as best I can & use the super thin stuff in areas where it will be directly supported by foam (the same as I did with the FRP on my old build). I'm only adding 3 cubic feet of foam to the boat as a result, so that's only 6lbs.

I'll redo approximately half the flooring with the super thin stuff, saving ~1lb per square foot vs the 5/8 plywood it had originally, so that's roughly 30lbs in weight savings there, another ~20lbs of weight savings in the bow using the aluminum I have for up there vs. the original plywood. I'll likely add about 15lbs of additional framing, so in the end I'm conservatively going to be around 25lbs lighter all things considered, not too bad for a hull that started at 558lbs from the factory. I was picky on finding one of these hulls for the comparably low starting weight vs. a new 16' bass boat that can run 700 to 900 lbs. for just the hull - makes a big difference in the safety on the highway when pulling it with a Subaru.



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I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.


For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2018, 17:44 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1933
Location: CT
DaleH wrote:
Nidacore?


That would be nice but not in the budget.



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I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.


For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2018, 18:07 

Joined: 29 Jun 2016, 19:36
Posts: 648
Location: middle of NC
That 60 hp should get er on down the lake. When I was thinking it over I almost used stock car alum sheet which is easy to find around here but very thin. Finally settled on Alupoly when extry money turned up.


AluPOLY acm.jpg

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16 ft Sea Nymph w/30 Johnson
14 ft Monark w/25 Merc XD sold
1994 Lowe 1605 w/50 Evinrude sold
14 ft Lone Star w/15hp Evinrude sold
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2018, 21:37 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1933
Location: CT
More exotic materials I've never heard of for me to look up and oogle at!

"You don't know what you don't" ... such good advice...I learn so much just trying to keep up with everything people talk about on this site.

Nidacore is an awesome looking support material that I'd never heard of until today and now alupoly...between the two someone could damn near make a full size bass boat that two guys could carry down to a lake.

Love this site.



_________________
I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.


For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 21 Jul 2018, 10:27 

Joined: 30 Jun 2014, 21:44
Posts: 265
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
This looks like it’s going to be fun!


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PostPosted: 31 Jul 2018, 17:08 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1933
Location: CT
In my 1436 build I made a slotted storage space in the floor for housing my std. 3700 trays. Unfortunately, each slot is fixed at 2" thick, so now that I've added some of the 3730 bins to my collection I cannot store them in my formatted space as they're 3.25" thick.

Not to repeat the mistake and to simplify my life on this build, I found these bins to use as drop in hatch liners. The lip on the edge should keep them from taking on water, while also making the framing fabrication a bit easier as I can do it all with solid rivets. They have available slide in dividers so you can subdivide them all the way down to 1-1/8" little squares if you so wished:

Source:
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item. ... &catid=986
Image

Dividers:
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item. ... &catid=986
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item. ... &catid=986
Image



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I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.


For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 02 Aug 2018, 08:29 
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Joined: 25 Jul 2013, 16:12
Posts: 897
Location: Henniker, NH
Following this thread... looks like it's gonna be a good build



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1993 Starcraft SF 14 DLX side console with 25 hp Mercury 2 stroke
2003 Sylvan 2100 Profish walkthrough with 150 Mercury Saltwater and 6hp Mecury 4 stroke kicker
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PostPosted: 11 Aug 2018, 21:22 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1933
Location: CT
Wow...getting no where thanks to what feels like a month of straight rain...every night I get home from work in the middle of a thunderstorm or just before another one hits.

Needless to say no progress has been made since the bin liners arrived.



_________________
I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.


For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 12 Aug 2018, 16:38 

Joined: 29 Jun 2016, 19:36
Posts: 648
Location: middle of NC
It's that drain pipe or the other kind? I bought a piece of 1 1/2" black ABS at Lowes to try out. It seems lighter compared to the other kind.



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16 ft Sea Nymph w/30 Johnson
14 ft Monark w/25 Merc XD sold
1994 Lowe 1605 w/50 Evinrude sold
14 ft Lone Star w/15hp Evinrude sold
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PostPosted: 13 Aug 2018, 09:16 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1933
Location: CT
I used SDR 26 sch. 40 pipe from lowes, but you could use drain pipe. It certainly doesn't need to be pressure rated, I used it because it was easily accessible at a big box store.



_________________
I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.


For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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