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PostPosted: 11 Oct 2016, 10:29 
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Joined: 09 Sep 2016, 15:11
Posts: 18
Location: Daviess Co. Ky
Howdy everyone. I am getting ready to redo my 1986 Smoker Craft Big Fisherman with a Johnson 28HP SPL, I purchased back in late July. I rode around a lot with it to get a feel of what I wanted to do with it. The boat trailer and motor all came as a package new. I have 4 specific questions. I want to do a center console and move it back from where the original console was, around 4 feet. In one picture I have a quick mock up of where I want the console.1)Would there be any handling problems with moving the console back? Seems to me wouldn't be any different than a tiller controlled boat. I want the boat to have its weight all in the center as much as I can. 2)Also what does everyone use to patch holes in these boats? Where I took the original storage and seats out they used carriage bolts through the hull. I had to cut them off as they were spinning. 3) After taking the seats/storage out, the sides seems kinda flimsy. Is there a way to support these back up and leave the open floor as well? 4) How are boat widths measured on these V hulls? Widest part at the top or bottom? This site is a cool site and I hope to be posting more pictures and asking more questions later.


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PostPosted: 11 Oct 2016, 12:02 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 2052
Location: Eastern Mass
HOLES - Most of us put back in properly bucked solid rivets ... done once, done right.

STRUCTURAL - See this post here: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40289 for info and pictures. I had cautioned about boats where the middle seat is removed and if hitting waves, the stresses are sent down the sides of the hull where the hull is essentially trying to collapse on itself. If you're always on a pond you may not need to heed this ...

Someone else posted pictures of braces they were adding. So it appears in tin boats that the methods used are:

    * Full-width seats (you don't want),

    * Half-size compartments up the sides (think Lund Alaskan layout or other hulls with rod storage down the side that mates the floor to the hull topside (side)

    * Adding floor or braces for additional support when no seat or compartment is used.

I've only done the 1st two, so can't comment on braces. But hopefully others here can help you!

Welcome aboard!



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 11 Oct 2016, 17:34 
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Joined: 09 Sep 2016, 15:11
Posts: 18
Location: Daviess Co. Ky
The trailer gets the garage for a while.I want to redo it also.
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Someone brush painted it and the boat and they both look pretty rough. Got the floor all tore out and ready to start stripping the paint. I had 5, 30 gallon trash can full of wood and foam. I weighed each can and what I threw away weighed 230 pounds. It was soaking wet.


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PostPosted: 05 Dec 2016, 18:22 
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Joined: 09 Sep 2016, 15:11
Posts: 18
Location: Daviess Co. Ky
Got the trailer done about a month ago and have been working slowly on stripping the boat. Done with tho outside. Now working on the inside. Then I am gonna check for leaks and flip it over and start painting. Taking a poll on flat Olive green or shiny dark blue :? . I did discover a stripping technique that may help some, may not. I bought a gallon of stripper from Walmart, applied it with a brush, let it sit for 15 minutes, then took a stiff scrubbing brush and elbow grease, and the paint came right off. Then I washed it with a hose. Wish I had tried this before I bout 5 cans of Aircraft stripper. :roll:
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PostPosted: 06 Dec 2016, 05:43 
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Joined: 12 May 2016, 06:39
Posts: 89
Location: Williamsburg, KY
Looking good so far =D>


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PostPosted: 22 Dec 2016, 12:18 
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Joined: 09 Sep 2016, 15:11
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Location: Daviess Co. Ky
I have some questions for all the re builders. 1.) Would it be a good idea to paint under neath the floor inside the boat, and has anyone used the truck bed liner stuff? Or what would be best to use there? 2.) On the floor I am going to use 1/2 inch regular plywood. Should I seal the wood with something before I install it? I have almost finished stripping the inside of the boat, outside is done. I am going to fix all the leaks then primer and paint soon. Still undecided on flat army green or shiny blue....?????


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PostPosted: 23 Dec 2016, 08:52 

Joined: 06 Jan 2015, 18:39
Posts: 269
In my boat, I'd paint gluv it on the seams where rivets are. Just another small step to help piece of mind. I have contemplated and thought about truck bed liner in mine below the floor.. I think in the future I'll use raptor liner. I've used this on many vehicles with lasting success, and under the floor of a boat it would be in much less of a harsh environment so it should hold up well. Personally I want it to add to the rigidity (if it does at all) to the hull. Further, I feel like it will help with some noise... but honestly, I'm probably using it just to use up what I have laying around my house.

For the sealant of the wood, especially if it's your floor I think it needs sealed. Spar urethane worked well with me, but takes forever to dry for additional coats. Also it's hard to work with because it doesn't set fast. It's much like a viscous paint. For any future uses of wood I intend to fiberglass it. Quickly sets so I can get a lot done in a day versus paint and wait.. also, it's cheap, I'm familiar with it, and when it needs replaced I'll dread it a little less. Lol.

Good luck!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: 23 Dec 2016, 09:29 
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Joined: 02 Mar 2014, 19:52
Posts: 3193
Location: Central FLORIDA - The Sunshine State -
Jeff - in my world - I would definately paint the underside of the floor boards.
also, the tops as well - even if you are going to paint it, carpet it, or vinyl it - seal it.
Plywood is the most porous product that we use and it will suck up moisture
even when you can't see it or feel it......... inviting deterioration, warping, cupping and curling.
to get the deep first coat, thin the coating (either varnish or oil based primer) 50%
with the appropriate thinner. Let dry 48 hours, then apply a few more unthinned coats,
following the directions on the product you use.
Use regular exterior grade pine BCX or CDX. Using marine grade plywood is not
necessary as long as you treat the pine product well. (even marine grade wood must be sealed).
One formula that has been kicking around lately is:
one part Boiled Linseed Oil
one part oil based varnish (or paint).
two parts miner spirits.

saturate the entire surface and edges. After 5 minutes, remove any puddles and
let sit for 48 hours...... this will be your initial sealer only.
the top coats will be your actual waterproofing layers.
you should treat a new transom board the same way.
This procedure will make your wood last probably longer than you keep the boat.

even though many members here use the Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane,
(probably because it is the only item available at their favorite Big Box Store)
I am not a fan of it simply because it contains urethane resins which is not an exterior product.
I use either 100% Spar Varnish or a good quality oil based primer and top coat paints.

and yes, this is a time consuming project !!!! but, as DaleH often says: do it once, do it right - and forget it.

Read, Understand and Follow all directions on the products you may use.
Use adequate ventilation if this is performed inside a garage or workshop.
Air dry all oil soaked rags outside before disposing them.
Avoid painting anything if the ambient temperature is below 60* (or expected within the next 12 hours).

oh - if you use the "search" feature here for any issues you may encounter,
you will find many valuable threads on members projects that have already done it.

and WELCOME ABOARD !!!



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http://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
http://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = http://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = http://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1959 Lone Star Malibu 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse
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PostPosted: 28 Dec 2016, 13:34 
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Joined: 09 Sep 2016, 15:11
Posts: 18
Location: Daviess Co. Ky
Finished stripping all the paint inside and out.Put it in the garage and flipped it over after I filled it with water to check for leaks. So I have a question. I think these were caused by someone using screws or nails on a previous repair and they were metal and laid in the floor inside and caused the metal to rust. I didn't get any pictures of the inside rust pockets but you can tell it was a screw or nail. I even found a piece that looked like part of a metal rivet. What is the best way to repair these leaks? JB Weld is what I have seen most people use. I have heard some guys drilling holes and putting open end rivets back in with 5200. I think the JB would work best with all the little holes. Whats everyone's opinion?


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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2017, 19:39 
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Joined: 09 Sep 2016, 15:11
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Location: Daviess Co. Ky
Got it off the trailer and flipped it over, repaired holes with solid aluminum rivets and JB Weld. They were easy, but I was scared at first because I have never done any. Think from now on I will never use anything but solid if I can get to the back to hold the dolly. Then masked ,1 coat of etching primer , and 3 coats primer, sanded with 400 grit then 1500, and 5 coats paint. Just because I like to paint. I didn't get any pictures of it with primer. Been a long road so far . Cant wait to get this back on the trailer and start working on the inside.


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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2017, 20:34 

Joined: 29 Jun 2016, 19:36
Posts: 640
Location: middle of NC
Looks great. Have you considered a tiller motor.



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16 ft Sea Nymph w/30 Johnson
14 ft Monark w/25 Merc XD sold
1994 Lowe 1605 w/50 Evinrude sold
14 ft Lone Star w/15hp Evinrude sold
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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2017, 23:17 
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Joined: 09 Sep 2016, 15:11
Posts: 18
Location: Daviess Co. Ky
water bouy wrote:
Looks great. Have you considered a tiller motor.
Yes but I think I am gonna go back with a wheel. I want to be able to stand and drive because I plan on going through water with lots of debris, like creeks. I know tiller would save a lot of room, but there will probably never be me or 2 grand kids or maybe 1 adult.


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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2017, 12:01 

Joined: 29 Jun 2016, 19:36
Posts: 640
Location: middle of NC
I hear ya. Mine is also a 14 ft vee and I can't see much unless it's bobbing. The guys on those shows about Alaska seem to use a lot of tiller handle extensions so they can stand up but their boats are pretty big.



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16 ft Sea Nymph w/30 Johnson
14 ft Monark w/25 Merc XD sold
1994 Lowe 1605 w/50 Evinrude sold
14 ft Lone Star w/15hp Evinrude sold
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PostPosted: 08 Feb 2017, 17:47 
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Joined: 09 Sep 2016, 15:11
Posts: 18
Location: Daviess Co. Ky
Done with the paint, styro-foam in the floor and now mocking up the plywood. Slow going cause I dont know what I am doing !


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PostPosted: 08 Feb 2017, 17:49 
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Joined: 09 Sep 2016, 15:11
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Location: Daviess Co. Ky
Here are some more pics.


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SwampRunner