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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2016, 22:57 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
First off, thanks to the mods and everyone else here on tinboats for all the resources. I had been thinking trying a modification before i even realized that a community like this existed and now that I see what others have done, I finally decided to give it a try.

I hope to have a boat that will work well for inland lakes in SE Michigan, hopefully a few trips to the UP for some of the pike lakes there, there is a lake within an hours drive that is stocked with musky with electric motor only restrictions, some bowfishing in protected bays on Lake Erie, etc.

I have a complete wood shop (table saw, planer, jointer, etc), but i have no experience with metalwork or working on engines of any kind, so i have some learning to do in that department.

After searching craigslist for 6 months or so, i finally pulled the trigger on a 14' 1976 Meyers SuperPro with a 25hp Evinrude motor.

I welcome suggestions and would really appreciate anyone who points out any bad ideas that I come up with before I make any mistakes.

I picked it up a week ago and have been working on the motor and trailer so far. The guy i got it from said he didn't think the motor would not start until the carb was cleaned, and he was right. so i took the carb apart and cleaned it, checked the spark plugs, put everything back together and was able to get the motor running in a barrel. I still need to replace the killswitch that was dryrotted and figure out if the choke was connected correctly when i got it or not. I'll post some picture of that problem in the motors section of the forum.

the trailer needed a lot of work, i am in the middle of rewiring the lights, the winch was installed incorrectly installed so I had to fix that and cut down the towstrap that was too long and was getting caught in the gears of the winch. the ball hitch and safety chains needed fixed. I'm also installing guides in the rear because i will be on my own for most of my fishing trips.

I plan to work on it through the fall and winter and hopefully have it where I want it to be by next spring. here are the "before" pics wish me luck...


File comment: before pic 3
Photo Sep 14, 6 07 05 PM.jpg
File comment: before pic 2
Photo Sep 14, 6 07 23 PM.jpg
File comment: before pic 1
Photo Sep 14, 6 07 32 PM.jpg
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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2016, 09:45 

Joined: 29 Jun 2016, 19:36
Posts: 628
Location: middle of NC
Should make a dandy fishing machine. What kind of upgrades are planned.



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14 ft Monark w/25 Merc XD sold
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PostPosted: 22 Sep 2016, 20:39 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
water bouy wrote:
Should make a dandy fishing machine. What kind of upgrades are planned.



right now i plan on finishing getting the trailer road ready and then take the boat to a local lake and run the motor for a while to make sure it runs well. After that i will probably put in a temporary casting deck up front and get a feel for how sturdy the boat is, how much storage/deck i want, and just use the boat a bit and see what seems to be a good fit.


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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 17:35 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
finally finished the trailer repairs today and took it to a parking lot to practice backing up (never trailered anything before). haven't been able to work on the boat itself yet as the trailer and motor repairs have taken up all of my time.

here is a link the the thread about the motor repair questions:

http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=41763&p=422320#p422320


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PostPosted: 02 Oct 2016, 21:36 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
finally got out on the water today, everything went well. the motor runs strong and the boat planed out at 20mph according to my depthfinder. Cabela's had the minn kota powerdrive on sale so i picked one up. I just have it attached to an old shelf clamped on the bow for now, i want to see how everything feels for a few trips before i get serious about designing the modifications.

there were a few small leaks in the front of the boat. upon closer inspection, there seem to be some cracks in the crossbraces (ribs? not sure what they are really called) that go across the floor of the boat. there is some sort of sealant that is starting to crack off as well. it is white and hard, any ideas what it might be? looks like most/all of the joints on the floor of the boat have been treated with it.

i took a few pictures after about 2 hours on the water.

i think the single rivet that is leaking i can probably get away with a little silicone on both sides, i'm not too worried about that one.

I'm not sure what to make of the other areas with the cracks though. any suggestions?


File comment: temporary trolling motor mount
Photo Oct 02, 11 36 21 AM.jpg
File comment: floor of boat under forward most seat. crack in metal and more white sealant that is hard and cracking
Photo Oct 02, 6 47 13 PM.jpg
File comment: floor of boat, crack in metal, some sort of white sealant that had been applied and is cracking off
Photo Oct 02, 6 47 06 PM.jpg
File comment: small amount of water leaking in after about 2 hours on the water
Photo Oct 02, 3 37 38 PM.jpg
File comment: leaking rivet after about 2 hours on the water
Photo Oct 02, 3 37 30 PM.jpg
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PostPosted: 13 Oct 2016, 21:45 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
After a few trips out on the water I think i have a gameplan figured out, but still have a few unknowns...
I plan to install a casting deck up front that will rest on the first two benches and overhang the second bench a bit. I dont want to remove any of the benches, but might have to cut into some of them a bit. I plan to use 2 batteries. One for just the trolling motor and the other for lights. I will try and tuck the batteries under the second bench with access from near the floor. I will also put a hatch in the casting deck to access storage. I am still trying to think trough how much i want to raise this deck. Im trying to keep the center of gravity of the boat as low as possible, and also dont want the step down from the deck to the floor to be too great. Once that deck is ready, i will build a mount on the bow for the trolling motor and the headlights. Still havent put much thought into the lights, but they will most likely be marine leds mounted on something that i can easily remove and store in the forward hatch.

In the rear i plan on building another casting deck with a pair of hatches to make kind of a lazerette to keep the gas tank in. When i use the tiller i like to sit off center on the starboard side, so the seat will go there, but i am trying to figure a way that i can set it up to be easy to remove and store so it isnt in the way when fishing. Im going to try and extend that deck a bit forward of the last bench to make a locker for the bowfishing equipment. Next i will build a deck in the middle that just covers the middle bench and that i can attach the vertical supports for the floor to. I may cut the middle out of this bench to make a live well there, but i also want to be able to mount a second seat there in case i have anyone else come out with me. And i also want to make a rod locker about 7' long to run down the port side and rest on the back and middle decks.

Again not sure exactly how this will all get put together, but it will be plywood/ dimensional lumber as that is where my skill set it at. I need to do the calculations on weight and see where i am at, but the boat is rated for 915 lbs so i should be good.

Still need to seal the leaks in the bow and adjust the motor before i get too serious about the build, but i did take some 2x4's and plywood with me last time out to get some very rough measurements


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PostPosted: 26 Oct 2016, 21:07 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
got the boat off the trailer and tried to patch some of the leaks with gluvit. having never worked with an epoxy like this i was surprised how much it ran down the side of the boat. I mixed it at the 5:1 ratio as stated on the can, and waited until a day when the temp was above 50. the epoxy ran down past the area that i had prepped and onto some areas that i had not stripped the paint, probably going to have to clean that area again but time will tell.

while the boat was off the trailer, I decided to repair the bunks on the trailer. once i got the old carpet off i realized there were way too many old nails and staples and the wood was too rotted for me to want to reuse. I will get some new 2X6 material and use leftover deck carpet and make some new ones at a later date.

boat is back on the trailer and i am waiting for a warmer day next week to seal the inside of the bow with more gluvit and then start laying out the casting decks and flooring.


File comment: bunks need replaced
Photo Oct 26, 3 35 16 PM.jpg
File comment: boat and trailer under repair
Photo Oct 23, 3 33 56 PM.jpg
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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2016, 16:54 

Joined: 25 May 2016, 19:06
Posts: 14
When using my marine epoxy to seal the inside of the boat it would run as well, so I ended up letting it sit for about 10 minutes and mixing it in small batches that I could apply for about 15 minutes a time due to the working life of the epoxy being 20-30 minutes. Maybe let it cure a bit so it wont run as much, and keep brushing it back onto the area you are targeting until it cures up a bit as well.


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PostPosted: 30 Oct 2016, 22:24 
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 20:22
Posts: 1690
Location: Central Illinois
I recommend you get those rib cracks welded by a pro. The ribs are a critical part of the boat hull integrity. Epoxy has no structural strength.

Otherwise, good start so far.



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HOI Crappie Club
Where family and friends come to compete for a little more than bragging rights.


'97 16' Sylvan Back Troller Select
'67 14' Alumacraft
'57 Model FD11 18-hp Johnson Seahorse
'09 Traverse FWD V6 w/ towing package, power sun and moon roof, and ton of other options. The only one I wanted was the towing package. :mrgreen:
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PostPosted: 20 Nov 2016, 19:27 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
thanks for the tips, I was able to get the boat sealed and tested it in the garage, looks to have work, I will try and find someone local to weld the cracked ribs.

finally had time today to work on the framing for the front casting deck and it seems to have come together well. I am going to seal the lumber using the old timers' formula and then put everything back together. I decided that i am going to have to cut through the top of the front seat and put the batteries there, i had hoped to be able to cut through the back of the seat and slide them in that way, but it won't be tall enough. I want to get the front deck fit and before i actually make the cut. I will have to take some of the foam out and will need to replace it under the floors or somewhere else in the boat.


File comment: front casting deck from the bow
Photo Nov 20, 5 07 27 PM.jpg
File comment: hatch that will be hinged near the bow to access storage and the batteries
Photo Nov 20, 5 07 14 PM.jpg
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PostPosted: 17 Jan 2017, 19:18 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
I took advantage of the 3 day MLK weekend to finish the framing and cut the decking. I wasn't sure how to approach the layout for the vertical pieces on the existing benches. I found some construction paper laying around and it worked very well to tape it to the bench and crease the paper to the contour of the bottom of the boat. wouldn't work for horizontal pieces, but it saved me a lot of time trimming cardboard. Now I will seal the plywood with the old-timer's formula and then figure out what carpet material to use to cover it with.


File comment: all the decking has been cut
Photo Jan 16, 12 47 25 PM.jpg
File comment: construction paper used to make a template
Photo Jan 14, 10 29 36 AM.jpg
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PostPosted: 02 Mar 2017, 21:38 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
Only been able to work once every other weekend or so, but have made some progress.

got the front bench cut out for 2 batteries. I plan to either run a single battery or 2 in parallel depending on how long i plan to be out, if i'll be out at night, etc.

ordered this carpet off amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing ... ize_name=0

8x10 was just the right amount to get all of the decking/floors covered and have enough left over for when i redo the bunks on the trailer.

it has a lot of loose threads when i first cut it, but a quick pass along the edge with a lighter seems to clean it up OK.

one thing that i guess i should have thought of ahead of time, but didn't... after i sealed the plywood with the old timers formula, I also put 2 or 3 coats of straight spar urethane on them. I used outdoor carpet adhesive in the middle, and wanted to use contact cement on the edges and underneath where i wrapped the carpet an inch or so. the issue was that the contact cement reacted with the spar and turned to sludge that i had to scrape out of the way. after thinking about it for a while, i decided to just clean the edges with lacquer thinner before putting the contact cement on. frustrating to have to scrape off a bit of the finish that i spent so much time on, but at least it isn't as sticky as it was with the contact cement.


File comment: gluing the edges of the carpet
Photo Feb 17, 6 14 48 PM.jpg
File comment: laid out all of the part to make sure before I cut the carpet.
Photo Feb 17, 11 58 49 AM.jpg
File comment: access holes cut out for batteries.
Photo Mar 02, 8 30 42 PM.jpg
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PostPosted: 02 Mar 2017, 23:00 
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Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 20:22
Posts: 1690
Location: Central Illinois
Slowly but surely your getting her done. =D>



_________________
HOI Crappie Club
Where family and friends come to compete for a little more than bragging rights.


'97 16' Sylvan Back Troller Select
'67 14' Alumacraft
'57 Model FD11 18-hp Johnson Seahorse
'09 Traverse FWD V6 w/ towing package, power sun and moon roof, and ton of other options. The only one I wanted was the towing package. :mrgreen:
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PostPosted: 12 Mar 2017, 20:17 

Joined: 06 Sep 2016, 16:29
Posts: 33
Finally ready to paint. I decided to tear my woodshop apart so that I could drag the boat inside to paint the interior (not gonna worry about the outside this year). I didn't think that I could get my 2 car garage warm enough, but it gets plenty warm in the shop. I spent the morning moving the tablesaw and work benches out of the way, and had to unscrew part of the backyard fence so that I could push/pull the trailer into the yard, and then somehow force the boat through the door. I used rustoleum flat camo spray paint. also cut the wood to replace the trailer bunks, used the old ones as template to drill holes for the hardware. going to have to let them sit in my basement for a while, wood is too wet when it comes from lowes.


File comment: one of the things I have been trying to do is use as much as I can of stuff I already had. One thing i had been considering was using an inverter and regular fish tank pump in an old cooler for a small live well or bait bucket. had a chance to try out my idea when we lost power for a few days this week and set this up on my wife's fish tank. powered the internet router from this set up too... (still had to run the portable generator to power the furnace, only a 200 watt inverter)
Photo Mar 08, 5 28 08 PM.jpg
File comment: got the heaters set up and test sprayed a small section before deciding all was good to go.
Photo Mar 12, 12 19 56 PM.jpg
File comment: the boat after I wrestled it into the shop
Photo Mar 12, 11 25 50 AM.jpg
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PostPosted: 12 Mar 2017, 20:32 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4140
Location: Algonquin Il
When you say the new bunks are too wet are you saying your using pressure treated wood?



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