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SwampRunner

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PostPosted: 14 Mar 2017, 08:58 
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Joined: 29 Aug 2011, 12:55
Posts: 2807
Location: South Florida
Very nice work =D>



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Work: A dangerous disorder affecting high public functionaries who want to go fishing

Project "A Little Snookered" viewtopic.php?f=21&t=22132
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PostPosted: 06 Apr 2017, 19:45 

Joined: 18 Jul 2015, 18:32
Posts: 24
Made a couple of minor changes while I was at it. I had an extra ruler holder from my other boat, so built that in next to the livewell. I also removed the charging port. I'm going to remove the on-board charger from the boat to save a few pounds and hook up some quick connect clips to charge it.

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Here's how I plumbed the livewell drain and bilge pump. Cut the subfloor out to make room. It's tight, but it all fits and there is still room to service the pumps.
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Ran the hose for the bilge up the back and out the side. With the carpet in place, you can't see the hose and it's protected from getting stepped on.
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Last major piece I had to finish was the rear deck. I reached out to Prowelder (Matt Downs) after seeing his build on here and had him make a rear deck lid for me. He did a fantastic job and had it done in a couple of days. I highly recommend him if you need some custom work! He even put the proper 85 degree bend on the back of the lid so it would fit perfectly with the angle on the transom.
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I don't plan on using the rear seat, so patched the hole and leveled out the panels.
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Finished it off with some carpet. I planned to hinge the rear lid, but I kind of like the idea of being able to just pull it of to access the rear hatch area.
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Last edited by schinkr1 on 26 Nov 2017, 02:05, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: 06 Apr 2017, 21:43 

Joined: 25 Dec 2016, 13:22
Posts: 118
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
What holds the hatch in place? might want to use a bungee on the inside to keep it from flying out of the boat


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PostPosted: 06 Apr 2017, 22:53 

Joined: 18 Jul 2015, 18:32
Posts: 24
I have a hinge for it, just need to install it. It's snug enough that it's not going anywhere, but I don't want to take any chances.


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PostPosted: 07 Apr 2017, 06:04 
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015, 20:46
Posts: 223
Location: Buffalo NY
schinkr1 wrote:
I have a hinge for it, just need to install it. It's snug enough that it's not going anywhere, but I don't want to take any chances.


I have a similar cover over my aft storage. No hinge. When I need to get in there I want to have full access. My cover is 3/16 aluminum plate, so it's not going anywhere, but I put a Bungy cord over while trailering. Paranoia I guess. Looks damn good tho. Money and time well spent.



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PostPosted: 07 Apr 2017, 07:15 

Joined: 13 Nov 2014, 08:01
Posts: 717
I have similar hatch, I just made a hook for the leading edge that goes under the adjacent deck. No moving parts. You lift rear & pull back to remove. It is pretty secure.


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PostPosted: 08 Apr 2017, 23:56 

Joined: 18 Jul 2015, 18:32
Posts: 24
I was trying to figure out a good way to strap the hatch down and decided it was just easier to throw the hinge on it. Still have room to get to the batteries and gas tank, so calling it done.
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Since I'm trying to keep the boat light, I decided to pull the charger out of the boat. I found these Noco 10' extension cables with waterproof quick connect clips on clearance at my local Menards for $6. I cut them at 18" and connected them to the batteries with terminals. I hung the charger on my wall so I can just plug in the two clips to charge the batteries.

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That's about it for now. Time to go fishing!


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PostPosted: 19 Apr 2018, 07:40 

Joined: 12 Apr 2018, 12:42
Posts: 5
this might be old, but this is such a clean build.. I want to replicate this as much as I can on my new 1648 griz.

Thanks !!


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PostPosted: 19 Apr 2018, 08:53 

Joined: 18 Jul 2015, 18:32
Posts: 24
Appreciate that. If you run into snags or want to know how I did something just ask. I didn't post a ton of detail, but be glad to help.


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PostPosted: 26 Apr 2018, 01:16 

Joined: 19 Mar 2018, 23:06
Posts: 1
Where can I buy the hatch that you are using? I have 1448 and would like to extend my front deck. Thank you


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PostPosted: 26 Apr 2018, 07:33 

Joined: 18 Jul 2015, 18:32
Posts: 24
I bought the front hatch from Cabelas. Quality was way better than I expected. I had the rear hatch made by a guy on this forum (Prowelder i.e. Matt Downs).


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PostPosted: 07 Sep 2018, 23:25 

Joined: 18 Jul 2015, 18:32
Posts: 24
I haven't done anything to the boat in a while and the one thing I regret not adding was a recessed trolling motor. Standing on 1 leg all day really takes it's toll on your knee and back. I didn't add during the original build because there were support braces running right up the middle of the boat, but I'm over it and will brace it up as needed. I ordered the R&R Design recessed trolling motor tray from Hodges Marine this week. Total cost was $63 shipped and it arrived in 4 days. You can easily pay twice that much, but not sure why you would. It's aluminum and very well made.

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This picture is standing at the front of the boat looking toward the back. If you cut too far back, you will end up cutting the divider for you storage compartment out of the boat. I made a cardboard template for the tray and made a few cuts within the template as I went to make sure I could still adjust toward the front or back if needed. In my head I kept thinking I had to maintain 4" of depth for the pan to clear the floor and was worried about the front of the boat where the bow tapers. In hindsight, I could have moved the tray forward another 3" since the pan is also tapered, so you don't really need to maintain that depth. May seem obvious, but I over looked it.
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I made most of my cuts an angle grinder. The support braces for the deck are 1 1/2" thick, so I had to finish the cuts with a sawzall. The grinder cuts through like a breeze, but it makes a big mess.

I had to remove a couple inches of foam to get the tray to sit flush. Best way to cut that is a little drywall saw if you have one. I was planning on running a drain hose into the bilge, but clearing a path for the water to drop straight into the bilge will work just as well. There is a small drain hole at the base of the storage divider, so drainage won't be a problem.

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The deck feels like it will be solid enough once the recessed tray is in, but I'm going to work on bracing it up so I have some peace of mind that it won't have any flex.
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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2018, 17:52 

Joined: 22 Feb 2018, 21:36
Posts: 158
Would a high pedestal butt seat work better or as good? Maybe a slightly better angle. Just thinking of an alternative for others in your situation


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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2018, 18:32 

Joined: 18 Jul 2015, 18:32
Posts: 24
The only gripe about the R&R tray are the four holes they pre-drill in the floor of the pan. Found these 1/4" plugs at Lowes. Perfect fit.
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I plan on using a stand up pedestal seat. The distance from the seat to the pedal is actually right on. It's the same distance as my Ranger, so should work out well. Only other item I might add is a small cover to the front so I can mount my electronics up.

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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2018, 13:33 
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Joined: 29 Nov 2006, 21:00
Posts: 17273
Location: Shrewsbury, MA
Hi,
You want those 4 holes open. Water pools up in there from rain, splash, and what-not and will fry the electric components under your foot pedal. I was shown what happens when water does not flow out of the tray.

Jim



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