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PostPosted: 31 Aug 2016, 23:59 
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Joined: 20 Jun 2016, 23:10
Posts: 120
Location: Bellevue, WA
I leak tested my boat before I started and just had a faint leak along the back seam where the transom met the bottom of the hull. I put Gluvit on all the seams as a precaution; I didn't want to put all the work into this boat and then find out I didn't get it sealed properly and had to undo a portion and repaint to address it.

I don't have much in the way of framing to do, just some bench tops to mount seats to, which I plan on making out of mahogany, but I hear you on the cost of doing things out of aluminum. it would be nice to do it out of aluminum, since it's light and you'd never have to worry about it again. I might lean towards wood myself though, as it's easier to work with and I think if you seal it well (old timers formula) it should hold up.



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PostPosted: 04 Sep 2016, 19:28 
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Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
Posts: 29
Ok so finally got some progress on the ol' tin!
Saturday morning the GF and I went to the local marine supply place and picked up a quart of gluvit, and also a bunch of cans of good old rustoleum self etching primer. Now it has been a week since I had finished removing all the paint and I hadn't scuffed it up yet and washed it. So we went over the whole hull inside and out with sanding sponges to scuff it, and then washed both sides with a TSP/hot water solution, followed by a good rinsing. Then into the shop it went with the dehumidifier directly underneath it and me with the air compressor blasting water out of all the crevices and crannies. By Saturday night it was completely dry and ready for primer.

5 or 6 cans of the self etching primer later and I had the hull (exterior) done. I did a very light "tack" coat first allowing it to dry for a few minutes (per instructions on can) then a second coat to fill it in a little more. All in all I think it came out pretty good. This afternoon we carefully flipped it over back on to the trailer so that I could apply the gluvit to the interior. Yes it was a little early to flip it but the primer seemed pretty well dry plus once I get the topside primed it will be flipped over, scuffed and and spots that need touch up with be hit, then painted.

So anyways I mixed up the gluvit and began to apply. Man I came close to that 60 min pot life putting it on by myself. I hit all the rivets and seams and a few spots I though would benefit from it. I came back in the shop an hour or so later and there were some runs here and there but they're all below the floor line so I'm not concerned.
File comment: All primed up
IMG_3772.JPG

File comment: even looks decent up close!
IMG_3773.JPG

File comment: I kind of like the green primer color
IMG_3774.JPG

File comment: gluvit time!
IMG_3776.JPG

File comment: I made sure to get plenty on the one leak spot
IMG_3777.JPG


So one question I have is..
When can I prime over the gluvit? The can says full cure after 48 hours but can you prime after say 24 hours? I already found out that you CAN use the self etching paint on top of it, but do I need to wait two full days? I really want to get the rest of the hull primed so I don't have to worry about oxidation anymore. Also don't pay any attention to the dirty shop.. lol, I'm currently storing a bunch of my dads stuff while he builds his new place..


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PostPosted: 05 Sep 2016, 18:47 
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Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
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Ok a little more work today on the boat. Finally got to do some fun stuff! My uncle was generous enough to donate 3/4 of a sheet of some marine plywood he had laying around. (He/we used to work at a fancy lumber yard) It's 3/4" Sapele plywood. He only needed a small portion for a firewall on the ultralight he was working on and told me to "use it up" lol. I traced the old transom on to it, and milled it up.
Using a chip brush I "painted" on some titebond 3 onto both inner faces and then a small worm of glue for extra measure. I decided to use some nice treated wood compatible GRK screws to clamp it together from the side that will be hidden. Tons of squeeze out and that bugger is solid as a rock!
File comment: Glued and ready for a sandwiching!
IMG_3787.JPG


I decided to temporarily slide it into place as theres a slight bow to it once it's in place. I think the motor supports are a little skewed or something. It's really not that much though so I am going to leave it be.
File comment: You can see the slight bow in this pic.
IMG_3790.JPG

File comment: Here it is from the front. Not sanded yet though..
IMG_3788.JPG

I'm not too excited about how the ends of the transom fit to the boat. The ends of the boat are curved in such a way that the top is shorter. I wanted to have the plywood fit tight to the sides but you cannot physically get them in. Oh well I have a few ideas as to fix this.

On a side note I'm not sure how well the rusto self etching primer is going to hold. I barely dug my fingernail into a hidden spot and it scraped right off. I'm pretty sure I did my prep right. Scuffed the bare aluminum, washed with tsp and thoroughly dried..
The first time I put a little test area of the rustoleum self etch it stuck solidly! I'm going to give it a few days and then scuff it with a scotch brite pad in the full sun. Maybe it needs to cure more?


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PostPosted: 05 Sep 2016, 21:27 
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Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
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Oh and while the glut was hardening yesterday I replaced the rotten bunks on the trailer and threw some new carpet on them. Not much of a pic for that but heres one.
File comment: Brandy new bunks
IMG_3795.JPG


Also if any of my readers remembers my serial number was worn off on the placard and couldn't get an exact year of the boat. Well when I removed the aluminum piece from the exterior of the transom there was a number stamped into the hull in the center of the transom near the top. Could this be a serial number or hull identification number? I emailed a copy of the pic to Mirrocraft to see if they could help me.
I'm not too worried as my uncle said when he registered his old aluminum the town hall people only needed to see a bill of sale, and it didn't have a serial on it. They didn't care. $25 and there ya go. (we live in the same town)
File comment: Hull stamped number
FullSizeRender.jpg


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PostPosted: 05 Sep 2016, 22:54 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
Primer looks good! Your sides, at the transom, seem to have less flare than mine... I'm about to put the transom in mine and it's not nearly as pretty as your ply.... I used treated lumber (approved for direct contact with aluminum, wet or dry. Unlike the stuff they call yellawood) so it's just SYP.

I really ought to use some gluvit on the interior of mine.... but it never took on water when I used it fishin' last year... so I'm hoping for the best.


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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2016, 09:46 

Joined: 28 Jul 2016, 08:21
Posts: 35
What method did yous use to remove the transom? Is there a trick into popping out the bolts? My PO was very generous when securing the transom to the stern.


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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2016, 19:39 
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Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
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lvhish486 wrote:
What method did yous use to remove the transom? Is there a trick into popping out the bolts? My PO was very generous when securing the transom to the stern.


I used a combination of an angle grinder and a sawzall. Two of the bolts came free naturally with a wrench but the others were a b*tch. The transom wood itself was pretty soft and spongy on the sides enough to where it slid out pretty easily once I got all the fasteners out.
My only problem is the aluminum C channel cap piece is unusable. But others have said that you can make it yourself so thats what I'll do.


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