It is currently 20 Jul 2018, 18:11
Join the free forum or login with your account and the annoying banner goes away

Xtremeboats

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




 Page 2 of 3 [ 37 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: 19 Aug 2016, 18:32 
User avatar

Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
Posts: 29
enginerd wrote:
Oh, if it's all painted you probably don't have to worry about the etch, but I believe that TSP will etch aluminum anyway, so you should be fine.

Sucks about the stripping, but at least you caught it now and not after painting the whole boat.

Yea, but also I'm glad that I only used the sucky primer on the floor and that will be covered. Apparently some guys don't even paint under the floor anyway so I think I'm not too far behind.. I may only strip the couple of areas that I spot tested the color on. I was really impressed with how well the rustoleum held up. I think I may try their topside paint and primer.
Thanks for the responses..


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 22 Aug 2016, 19:00 
User avatar

Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
Posts: 29
Ok..... So the inner "my dad in me" came out. Meaning he always does things the correct way. Well I decided to strip the paint down to the bare aluminum. My god what a chore that was! And I really only got the exterior done. Well actually I got the interior above the floor line done too. I'm still debating whether I should do the rest of it so that I can gluvit it. I probably should seeming how the only leak I have is very minor and I don't think it is coming from a rivet. Its from a spot on the keel? in the bow. Looks as though previous owner made one too many a beach landing on hard surfaces lol.. There is no visible hole from the interior but it comes in from where the two pieces of bow metal come and meet the rest of the boat. I had it in the pool a while back and in 10-15 mins it only had a few drops. There was a bit more than that when I had my pressure washer cleaning it yesterday. Me thinks doing 20+ on the water will introduce a lot. So I think I want to take care of it.

IMG_3721.JPG

File comment: All cleaned up
IMG_3722.JPG

File comment: Damaged spot on keel
IMG_3726.JPG

File comment: Close up on where water might be getting in
IMG_3727.JPG

File comment: Damage to keel further down
IMG_3728.JPG

File comment: Spot on the inside where water comes in
IMG_3731.JPG


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 22 Aug 2016, 19:04 
User avatar

Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
Posts: 29
So what do you guys think? Just suck it up and strip the rest of the hull (interior)?

File comment: Water comes in in bottom of the bow
IMG_3732.JPG


File comment: Sides stripped but not bottom
IMG_3724.JPG


Thanks ahead for any responses!


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 23 Aug 2016, 13:15 
User avatar

Joined: 20 Jun 2016, 23:10
Posts: 120
Location: Bellevue, WA
Nice work getting down to bare aluminum; did you use chemical strippers or just mechanical removal?

That's a tough one. The inner perfectionist in me (I think we had similar fathers) would say strip it all down to bare aluminum and go from there. If you're going to Gluvit the seams, you probably want to strip it down to bare aluminum along all the seams anyway and that probably gets you about half way there. If I recall correctly, according to the directions on Gluvit you can apply it over a stable painted surface (e.g. not flaking off), but I wouldn't chance it. As my dad used to say, "put that down, it's expensive"...oh, no, I meant, "if you're going to do it, you might as well do it right in the first place."

On a side note, I have a trick to figure out if your painted surface is stable and can be painted over. You can just stick a piece of duck tape down, press it down really well, and then peel it up. If any paint comes up with it, then you need to strip it down, but if it comes up clean then more than likely the old paint is well enough bonded to the substrate that you can just overcoat it.



_________________
"Fair Winds and Following Seas."
-Brent
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 06:40 
User avatar

Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
Posts: 29
Thanks for the reply! I used a combination of chemical strippers and scraping/sanding and a pressure washer. It was not a fun time but I'm glad I did it. As far as the rest of the interior paint I probably will go at it this weekend. It's primer that I put on top of the original paint. I'm itching to start building but I don't even have a motor yet and probably wont be able to afford one until next summer so I've got plenty of time to do this correctly. I will also admit that the idea of polishing the exterior to a nice shine and waxing it or whatever is also starting to sound interesting...


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 12:38 
User avatar

Joined: 20 Jun 2016, 23:10
Posts: 120
Location: Bellevue, WA
I've seen a few Lone Stars that the owners have done in polished aluminum and they look pretty sharp. I toyed with the idea myself, but decided I liked the original paint scheme better.

If you're near Southern Colorado, I have a 1968 18-hp Evinrude Fastwin that I'd sell you for $200. I haven't gotten it running, but I know my cousins had it running about 10-years ago and it has been used very little over the past 30-years (my uncle had the boat sitting beside his house and virtually never used it). I would guess it had low hours and shouldn't be too onerous to get running again, thought it will definitely be a project. Not sure what a non-running engine is really worth.



_________________
"Fair Winds and Following Seas."
-Brent
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 25 Aug 2016, 14:14 
User avatar

Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
Posts: 29
enginerd wrote:
I've seen a few Lone Stars that the owners have done in polished aluminum and they look pretty sharp. I toyed with the idea myself, but decided I liked the original paint scheme better.

If you're near Southern Colorado, I have a 1968 18-hp Evinrude Fastwin that I'd sell you for $200. I haven't gotten it running, but I know my cousins had it running about 10-years ago and it has been used very little over the past 30-years (my uncle had the boat sitting beside his house and virtually never used it). I would guess it had low hours and shouldn't be too onerous to get running again, thought it will definitely be a project. Not sure what a non-running engine is really worth.


Thanks but I'm located in Kittery Point Maine. I'm actually debating on just saving through the winter and buying a brandy new motor come next spring/summer.. That way I'd have a warranty and wont have to mess with getting one going. I just can't decide between a 20 or 25 horse. I motor around more than I fish. I realize it's not a speed boat but I do like to get to places with a speed induced smile...


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 25 Aug 2016, 16:58 

Joined: 03 Jun 2016, 17:24
Posts: 34
Location: Southern Maine
Hey! Another Mainah!



_________________
1972 Smoker Craft
Shorelandr trailer
1955 Evinrude 15hp
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 26 Aug 2016, 13:40 
User avatar

Joined: 20 Jun 2016, 23:10
Posts: 120
Location: Bellevue, WA
DiverJosh82 wrote:
Thanks but I'm located in Kittery Point Maine.


Yeah, that's a little far to go for a nearly 50-yr old engine. That area of the country is beautiful...at least some of the year. When I worked for NOAA I spent some time in that neighborhood.



_________________
"Fair Winds and Following Seas."
-Brent
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 29 Aug 2016, 16:04 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 102
Gotta say, you've done a heck of a job on getting down to bare aluminum. I quit after not having much luck with chemical stripper... but I did get most of the old paint off. Where it was particularly stubborn to even mechanical removal, I just accepted that as a good base.

I'm hoping my build goes quicker than the paint removal.


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 29 Aug 2016, 16:31 
User avatar

Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
Posts: 29
oakchas wrote:
Gotta say, you've done a heck of a job on getting down to bare aluminum. I quit after not having much luck with chemical stripper... but I did get most of the old paint off. Where it was particularly stubborn to even mechanical removal, I just accepted that as a good base.

I'm hoping my build goes quicker than the paint removal.


I actually just got done yesterday with the interior. I seriously will never strip a boat again lol.. Above the floor line its clean to bare aluminum, below its like 90%. I am pretty sure it's enough. I definitely have all the seams and rivets cleaned up enough for gluvit.

Does anyone know if gluvit can go on bare aluminum?
File comment: Interior stripped
image.jpeg

File comment: Little bits of paint left
image.jpeg


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 30 Aug 2016, 00:53 

Joined: 29 Aug 2016, 21:01
Posts: 5
Hey Josh! Im new here as well and also undergoing my first boat resto. Looks good so far! Let me know how you patch the tough spots


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 30 Aug 2016, 19:59 
User avatar

Joined: 20 Jun 2016, 23:10
Posts: 120
Location: Bellevue, WA
Manufacturer recommends roughing the surface with 80-100 grit and applying an Aluminum Prep Wash over bare aluminum. I've seen others recommend putting on a Zinc Chromate primer prior to application, but manufacturer does not have that in their literature and what I've read said bare surface is preferable. I put Gluvit on bare aluminum for sealing my seams with no issues thus far.



_________________
"Fair Winds and Following Seas."
-Brent
Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 31 Aug 2016, 20:18 
User avatar

Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
Posts: 29
fish hooks wrote:
Hey Josh! Im new here as well and also undergoing my first boat resto. Looks good so far! Let me know how you patch the tough spots


Thanks for checking out my thread! I will definitely let you know. Right now I'm debating on Filling it with JB Weld and putting on a keel/bow protection strip of some sort. Do you have a build thread on this site set?


Offline
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 31 Aug 2016, 20:23 
User avatar

Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
Posts: 29
enginerd wrote:
Manufacturer recommends roughing the surface with 80-100 grit and applying an Aluminum Prep Wash over bare aluminum. I've seen others recommend putting on a Zinc Chromate primer prior to application, but manufacturer does not have that in their literature and what I've read said bare surface is preferable. I put Gluvit on bare aluminum for sealing my seams with no issues thus far.


Thanks for the info. Did you have any leaking or were you just putting it on to prevent future leaks?



Another thing I'm now questioning is the building of everything out of aluminum. I'd like to but damn it's going to get expensive.. Plus being a carpenter by trade I know I could probably build very light but still be strong with wood. I dunno, we'll see I guess.


Offline
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 Page 2 of 3 [ 37 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 75 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Join the free forum or login with your account and the annoying banner goes away

Fiberglasssupplydepot