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PostPosted: 28 Sep 2016, 13:44 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
lckstckn2smknbrls wrote:
Silicone has an acid in it that is bad for aluminum.


This was a black silicone for marine applications....still bad?

The previous owner had regular silicone on it in spots.


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PostPosted: 28 Sep 2016, 13:45 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
ericman wrote:
Those screws are a BAD idea. They will work loose. Drill thru with 3/16" bit and re-fasten with solid aluminum rivets.


Will do. Thank you for the advice.


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PostPosted: 28 Sep 2016, 17:39 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4143
Location: Algonquin Il
JigglyJohnson wrote:
lckstckn2smknbrls wrote:
Silicone has an acid in it that is bad for aluminum.


This was a black silicone for marine applications....still bad?

The previous owner had regular silicone on it in spots.


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I don't know. Does it say safe for aluminum?



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PostPosted: 03 Oct 2016, 20:33 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
lckstckn2smknbrls wrote:
JigglyJohnson wrote:
lckstckn2smknbrls wrote:
Silicone has an acid in it that is bad for aluminum.


This was a black silicone for marine applications....still bad?

The previous owner had regular silicone on it in spots.


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I don't know. Does it say safe for aluminum?

Looks good to use. It's for marine applications and it bonds aluminum. ImageImage


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PostPosted: 03 Oct 2016, 20:38 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
JigglyJohnson wrote:
ericman wrote:
Those screws are a BAD idea. They will work loose. Drill thru with 3/16" bit and re-fasten with solid aluminum rivets.


Will do. Thank you for the advice.


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Beers and fishing on me if you ever come to Ontario.

The rivets are so much better in every way and they were so easy to work with. Should have the framing for the floor completed by tomorrow. ImageImageImageImage
Any thoughts on the L brackets I'm using?
Image


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PostPosted: 03 Oct 2016, 21:25 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
Shoot. I used pop rivets. I didn't understand the difference initially. How bad is the difference? I'm coating all the external ones in 5200.


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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 04 Oct 2016, 08:54 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1917
Location: CT
You really can't get away from the pop rivets attaching to the ribs, so you're good there. If you can use solid rivets for the aluminum connections that do not mate up to the hull ribs they will be sturdier.

The sealant you pictured specifically says its "Silicone Free" in the 1st line on the backside so you're good to go - it's a polyurethane based goop.



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For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 04 Oct 2016, 09:48 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
onthewater102 wrote:
You really can't get away from the pop rivets attaching to the ribs, so you're good there. If you can use solid rivets for the aluminum connections that do not mate up to the hull ribs they will be sturdier.

The sealant you pictured specifically says its "Silicone Free" in the 1st line on the backside so you're good to go - it's a polyurethane based goop.


Thanks buddy!


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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 04 Oct 2016, 10:57 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1917
Location: CT
The issue with blind rivets (pop rivets) is they're hollow so they don't hold up to sheer forces nearly as well as a solid rivet would. I built my boat using stainless blind rivets for their enhanced sheer strength (vs. aluminum blind rivets), which I could get away with as I'm never out on salt water, but stainless & aluminum react in the presence of salt water so that isn't really the best solution. I had used aluminum blind rivets initially but they quickly failed and I ended up replacing them all.

Any future projects I take on will definitely use solid aluminum rivets wherever possible, tooling to use an air compressor air-hammer to set them is very inexpensive.



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I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.


For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 04 Oct 2016, 11:10 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
onthewater102 wrote:
The issue with blind rivets (pop rivets) is they're hollow so they don't hold up to sheer forces nearly as well as a solid rivet would. I built my boat using stainless blind rivets for their enhanced sheer strength (vs. aluminum blind rivets), which I could get away with as I'm never out on salt water, but stainless & aluminum react in the presence of salt water so that isn't really the best solution. I had used aluminum blind rivets initially but they quickly failed and I ended up replacing them all.

Any future projects I take on will definitely use solid aluminum rivets wherever possible, tooling to use an air compressor air-hammer to set them is very inexpensive.

How bad did they fail? Should I be replacing these right away?


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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 04 Oct 2016, 14:52 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
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Location: CT
The ones I had fail were in the bracketing I made to support my trolling motor. They failed within ~2 months. They had (comparably) a lot of weight jostling around, especially while trailering the boat.



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I have a marriage license and a fishing license, but I only carry one in my wallet.


For Sale - Custom Hand Tied Jigs, Bladed Jigs,Custom Rods

2002 Alumacraft 1436LT w/ 1984 Mariner Tiller Converted to Remote & 55# Minn Kota Terrova 12v (removable)

1985 Bass Tracker III - Restoration w/ 1988 Mercury 60hp
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PostPosted: 04 Oct 2016, 19:10 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
onthewater102 wrote:
The ones I had fail were in the bracketing I made to support my trolling motor. They failed within ~2 months. They had (comparably) a lot of weight jostling around, especially while trailering the boat.


If I get two months out of it, I can live with that. That will get me to the end of the year. It's only supporting 125lbs of dumbass .

I finished the floor framing, using all aluminium pop rivets, but at least they're 3/16 and not 1/8. I 5200'd most the rivets and seams. Once that cures, I'm putting in a 4x8 plywood sheet for the rest of the year. ImageImageImage


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PostPosted: 18 Oct 2016, 21:50 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
So I need to get out for some fall bass before the end of the season. I plan to continue the project throughout the winter but for now I stuck to what I need to fish. Today I screwed down a sheet of plywood and installed my seat, the trolling motor foot control and a cup holder. I'm gonna screw in a little Tupperware container before I head out for miscellaneous storage because righty now there is nothing under the plywood except for the aluminum framing and I do not want to be losing my favourite baits down there.
ImageImage

My niece helped me installed a makeshift direction arrow for my trolling motor along with a casing to keep it dry. It'll be nice knowing which direction the motor is pointed in before hitting the pedal.
Image
Image

I need to figure out where to store my battery for now. I'm thinking up front in the gap between my platform and the front bench. I'm not sure what approach to take. I was thinking either a few strips of aluminum riveted to the bench seat and bent down then back up to be bolted to the plywood. That or just buy a plastic marine battery box from BPS and bolt it in between the plywood and the front bench. Thoughts or advice would be very helpful as I'm clearly new to this
Image


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PostPosted: 24 Nov 2016, 21:32 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
Does anyone have any suggestions on the best truck bed liner to use? I already used 3M 5200 on the rivets and confirmed there are no more leaks. I want to roll on some truck bed liner to quiet the boat a little. It will also serve as a paint. I want to lay it on before I add any foam.


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PostPosted: 25 Nov 2016, 11:57 

Joined: 06 Jan 2015, 18:39
Posts: 269
I used raptor liner on my truck and loved it. After 2 years, no chipping or anything else. No sun fading. Awesome product.. I'll be spraying my boat with it below my deck to hold foam in place (I'm using board foam) and dampen sound

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