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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 25 Jul 2016, 22:09 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
I recently bought a moderate v hull boat. I originally thought it was aluminium, but it's much heavier than it should be and the guy who I stored my boat with thinks that its galvanized steel. In any case, it's a huge step up space wise from my old 1236.

Here is the boat how I first got it. I purchased it from a mechanic that painted and rewired the trailer. I think he also repainted the outside of the boat.

ImageImage

I took the old 9.9 off my 12 footer for now. I will eventually upgrade to a 25+ hp tiller.

Image

The first thing I did to the boat was install a seat and an old donated bow mount trolling motor.

ImageImage

The next thing I did was rip out the two middle bench seats. They had low quality, aged and deteriorated flotation foam. I will be adding a lot more than what the boat had.

ImageImage

I placed 4 foot aluminum angle along the ribs to get an idea of what I'm up against. I paid way too much for the aluminum at HD. Found 1/2" square aluminum tubes that are 9 1/2' long locally for $5. Hoping they're strong enough to be used structurally.

ImageImageImage

I've been immersed in project build threads here for the past month or so and I've decided to take elements from many of the different amazing builds here and on YouTube. Unfortunately I lack the 'toolsy' skills that many here possess, but I'm taking the plunge anyways.

My plan includes the following (random scatter brained order):

1. Nautolex vinyl covering everything.
2. Decent gunwales with rod locker on one side, maybe both. Storage on one side of no second rod locker.
3. Will be spending the extra money for a lock for the rod locker latch, slam latches for everything else, trolling motor plug for future upgrades.
4. Aluminum frame with plywood as the structure.
5. U shaped structure to operate the tiller.
6. One seat centre rear
7. Elevated front deck level with gunwales.
8. Seat on front deck.
9. Flotation foam under the aluminum frame like in this boat as well as in every available space (picture borrowed from tinboats.net):
Image
10. I'd love to put a live well in if space permits, but I'm pushing it. If I can it will be half of the rear of the front deck.
11. Emergency gear storage at the very top of the front deck.
12. Winch type anchor hanging on the front of the boat.
13. Enclosure for the gas can, with hose and fuel fill tube so I can fill up gas directly.
Image


What I'm really hoping for is to hear where my plans are flawed. I'm really not experienced with any skilled building. Adding to my challenge is the fact the boat is 2 hours away and I don't have a great work area as of yet. Thanks for the long read. Hoping for advice.


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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 25 Jul 2016, 22:48 
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Joined: 02 Mar 2014, 19:52
Posts: 3193
Location: Central FLORIDA - The Sunshine State -
Welcome to da Bayou, Jiggly

test the hull with a magnet



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PostPosted: 25 Jul 2016, 23:56 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
Johnny wrote:
Welcome to da Bayou, Jiggly

test the hull with a magnet
will do!


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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 26 Jul 2016, 08:00 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 1966
Location: Eastern Mass
Looks good! I'd forget about enclosing the fuel tank, you may find it more trouble to rig up properly than it's worth ...

Nothing like being able to slide out an empty tank from under the seat and then grabbing a fuel one from the garage or shed and heading out fishing ...



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 26 Jul 2016, 10:02 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
DaleH wrote:
Looks good! I'd forget about enclosing the fuel tank, you may find it more trouble to rig up properly than it's worth ...

Nothing like being able to slide out an empty tank from under the seat and then grabbing a fuel one from the garage or shed and heading out fishing ...
makes sense and saves money.

I also found out that the boat is a Spectrum, which appear to have been made by tracker.


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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 27 Jul 2016, 13:54 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1868
Location: CT
Another strike against the internal fuel tank - assuming you're using the foam board insulation from most big box home improvement stores if you spill gas filling your tank you're likely going to have it dissolve your foam into sticky goo.



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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 03:49 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
Got frustrated by the lack of fishing and threw in a 4x8 pressure treated plywood board sitting on unsecured aluminum tubing (and a tackle bag and a battery ). Will get back to proper installation in two weeks Image


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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 09:09 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4137
Location: Algonquin Il
If it is an aluminum hull you don't want to use pressure treated wood. The copper used in the wood will react badly with aluminum.



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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 09:28 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
Posts: 40
lckstckn2smknbrls wrote:
If it is an aluminum hull you don't want to use pressure treated wood. The copper used in the wood will react badly with aluminum.
ive read this before. What if I vinyl it? Does that help?


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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 09:32 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4137
Location: Algonquin Il
When the wood gets wet the copper will leach out and where the water goes the copper will go.



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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 09:34 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
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lckstckn2smknbrls wrote:
When the wood gets wet the copper will leach out and where the water goes the copper will go.
gotcha. Was well worth it for the day. I'll pull the board out asap. Will it cause damage if left in for a couple days?


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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 09:44 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4137
Location: Algonquin Il
I'd do it for a day or 3 but not for long especially if the wood is new and the treatment is wet.



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PostPosted: 27 Sep 2016, 20:54 

Joined: 25 Jul 2016, 20:52
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So I started the thread off explaining that I'm not "toolsy" and the results support my claim.

Finding a place to work on the boat has been challenging, but my brother in law let me use his garage for a very short time, so I've been rushing to get her functional for some fall bassin'

I framed the floor using 1/2" 1/16 aluminum tubing that I sourced cheap on Kijiji. It's all held together with low grade fasteners and L brackets. It's not pretty and it's probably not going to be great long term. If I get two years outta her like this I'm happy.

I used black silicone to seal the rivets. I'm saving the 5200 to seal all the exterior below-the-waterline holes I drilled. Image
Sealed rivets

Image
Exterior screws....how bad of an idea is this?

Image
Where I'm screwing into

Image
Wood in to mark off the path of the aluminum angle cross bracing.

Image
Framing in the final stages of completion.



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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 28 Sep 2016, 08:10 

Joined: 02 Jun 2013, 10:26
Posts: 166
Those screws are a BAD idea. They will work loose. Drill thru with 3/16" bit and re-fasten with solid aluminum rivets.


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 Post subject: 1660 Mod V Hull Project
PostPosted: 28 Sep 2016, 08:23 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4137
Location: Algonquin Il
Silicone has an acid in it that is bad for aluminum.



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