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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 13:37 

Joined: 05 Oct 2008, 12:14
Posts: 4067
Location: Algonquin Il
As said in the earlier post when you turn the helm the steering cable will go into the plastic covering.



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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 13:59 
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Joined: 15 Mar 2014, 16:57
Posts: 1630
Location: CT
Get underneath and watch that plastic sheath as you turn the wheel from lock to lock - you'll see what we're talking about.



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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 16:57 

Joined: 24 Jun 2013, 09:37
Posts: 84
Hi,

ok I see it now.

I guess I can use the same grease as I used for the bearings to grease the cable?

Thanks


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PostPosted: 04 Aug 2016, 21:23 

Joined: 20 Apr 2015, 21:06
Posts: 194
Location: Secaucus, New Jersey
Check behind the tire on hub. The grease fitting can be there. I had one like that a long time ago.



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PostPosted: 22 Aug 2016, 09:36 

Joined: 24 Jun 2013, 09:37
Posts: 84
Hi,

I was pretty excited this weekend as I finished rewiring the boat.

I filled it up with water to test out the bilge system when I noticed a drip from the front bow.

There's a 3" horizontal gash in the bow letting in water really slow. The cut is really tight so it shouldn't be difficult to weld it shut.

So I decided to take off the front floor so I could get to both sides of the cut when I noticed how bad the floor really is.

So while I was planning to fix the floor next year I decided I might as well do it right now. The original floor was made up of two layers of 3/4 plywood.

Can you confirm my plan.

1. The longitudinals are somewhat bent over so I was going to get a piece of aluminum 'L' angle bracket and cut it into 2" sections and rivet it to the floor and to the longitudinal so that they are upright.
2. Fill in the gap between the longitudinals with blue or pink closed cell foam.
3. Not sure what to do between the outside longitudinals and the hull. I'm worried that if I put a floor down it will be unsupported along the outside. I was thinking of trying to cut piece of foam and placing it along the outside or filling the outside with expanding foam.
4. Using the existing floor as a template and replace it with 1/4" aluminum.
5. Once the new floor is in there was be a 1.5" gap below the console and front/rear casting deck. They are attached to brackets along the hull so once they are attached to the brackets they will sit off the floor. I could put a 1.5" wood spacer under them or try to move the brackets lower.
6. Once the floor is down use contact cement and glue down new marine carpet.

Looking forward to feedback.

Thanks


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PostPosted: 23 Aug 2016, 10:25 

Joined: 24 Jun 2013, 09:37
Posts: 84
What about this idea.

The depth of the three longitudinal stringers is 2.5" so I was going to fill that with closed cell foam.

Then lay 3/4" square aluminum tubing every 24" perpendicular to the longitudinal stringers side to side. I was thinking of riveting each tube to the three stringers. This way there would be support for the floor all the way to the edges.

Then put down 3/4" marine plywood followed by vinyl flooring.

Sounds good? Overkill?


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