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PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 09:14 

Joined: 10 Apr 2012, 20:28
Posts: 32
I just bought a old Skeeter Aluminum Bass Boat, that I am wanting to turn into a "Jon" type boat. The boat is All aluminum, even the floors is why I chose this boat, plus it was really cheap. I am debating on either keeping the console, or taking it out and using a tiller steer motor I have. I definitely want to keep the front casting deck and live well, but am thinking everything else goes. The boat is not pretty, but has potential. Have any of you ever done a bass boat to jon boat? I know this is going the opposite of what you usually see people doing.
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PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 09:32 
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Joined: 02 Mar 2014, 19:52
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Location: Central FLORIDA - The Sunshine State -
welcome aboard !!
it is refreshing to see new members post photos
with their questions !!!

are you talking about the open concept for your boat?
what will be your main use? fishing, hunting, pleasure, etc.

Personally, I think the front part would be hard to hold a
firm footing so I would deck out the bow and install a
dashboard steering system and do the back part as to your usage.
bench seats, flat floor, no seats, yada yada yada



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PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 09:58 

Joined: 10 Apr 2012, 20:28
Posts: 32
I will use the boat on small lakes that don't allow outboards, river fishing and duck hunting (all around boat).
I have a tiller steer 15 hp I can use, is why I was thinking about doing away with the steering? I wanted to keep the front deck for fishing and want to keep the live well. I am undecided on the layout. I want to basically strip out all the sides down to the hull and have a open concept boat? I would like to use anti-skid paint on the floors and walls and camo the outside. It's a well built boat, and never came across a boat like this that had aluminum floors. It's a Skeeter, not sure of the model number, can't find a tag, I know it's a 1980 year model.


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PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 11:36 
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Joined: 10 Mar 2011, 11:47
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Location: Winder, GA
If you need to pull the motor off for fishing, tiller is the way to go. I have the same issue when I fish on total electric lakes.



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PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 12:13 

Joined: 10 Apr 2012, 20:28
Posts: 32
gillhunter wrote:
If you need to pull the motor off for fishing, tiller is the way to go. I have the same issue when I fish on total electric lakes.


That's my issue. Two small lakes I fish won't even let you have a gas motor on the boat. That's why I was looking at a tiller steer.
I am looking at a open boat concept. It's basically made like a big Jon boat, I don't think it will be to difficult to strip the interior. I want to leave the front deck and live well, but demo the rest. I wish I had a better idea how the side pieces are installed and if the floor runs the length of the boat and under the side pieces. I have Googled the heck out of this boat and can't find a 1980's Aluminum Skeeter like it.
I can't find a Coast Guard plate on it anywhere? It has the serial number tag on the back and that's it.


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PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 12:34 

Joined: 10 Apr 2012, 20:28
Posts: 32
Just found some info., G3 made the Skeeter aluminum boats and they pretty much look the same as my boats hull.
I am going for a look like this G3.

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PostPosted: 02 Jul 2016, 12:36 
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Joined: 10 Mar 2011, 11:47
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Location: Winder, GA
You are probably going to have to strip the carpet to find out how the boat interior is constructed. Does it have a 20" transom? If so you'll need a long shaft motor.



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PostPosted: 03 Jul 2016, 18:04 

Joined: 10 Apr 2012, 20:28
Posts: 32
Update:
I got all the inside gutted, not bad about 3 hours.
I am leaving the front deck, the live well and I am thinking about leaving the rear deck. The boat is built really well. The aluminum is really thick and the braces are huge compared to what I am use to. One thing I didn't understand is why the boat maker didn't rivet the top part of the braces to the boat? I am going to rivet these for added support. I was going to rhino line or use a anti-slip paint, but with all the glue... I will probably use carpet. Any ideas on how to remove old glue, some is still sticky. It's a big job, but I really like the boat. I am still debating on the rear deck and what to do. I mainly will use this boat on small lakes that don't allow gas motors. So, I will be using a trolling motor on the front and one on the rear. I was going to mount a seat and use a tiller steer trolling motor, but the back deck is 42" long and would be to long to reach. I was thinking about mounting a pedestal seat and have another foot control trolling motor on the rear,, but I am undecided.
Thank you for all the help... Any ideas or tricks of the trade, please let me know.


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PostPosted: 04 Jul 2016, 10:45 

Joined: 21 Jul 2011, 10:31
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Location: palmerton pa.
They make an extension handle that fits on to a tiller handle, might be an option for a rear trolling motor.


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PostPosted: 04 Jul 2016, 10:51 

Joined: 10 Apr 2012, 20:28
Posts: 32
Thanks! I'll check it out.





overboard wrote:
They make an extension handle that fits on to a tiller handle, might be an option for a rear trolling motor.


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PostPosted: 04 Jul 2016, 11:00 

Joined: 10 Apr 2012, 20:28
Posts: 32
Any thoughts on what to do on the sides to eliminate the gap between the brace and the side wall? I would like to install aluminum sheet the length of the boat and rivet it to the sides and Rhino line the inside of the boat or carpet. I had also thought about where the floor is bent and run up the side 3".. Cutting this off and installing a plywood floor and notch out for the braces and carpet the floor?


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2016, 19:00 

Joined: 10 Apr 2012, 20:28
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Update: Got the boat all gutted and rotted transom removed.
Now debating on what transom material to use and how to layout the inside.
Was thinking about putting a small deck on the back, also thought about just leaving it all a open concept boat.
Next step is to drill out the rivets on the floor, remove the aluminum floor and replace the Styrofoam and replace it with the closed cell insulation boat from Lowes or Home Depot. The Styrofoam is waterlogged and falling apart, which surprised me.
Then I may get some aluminum tubing and frame the rear of the boat and put a casting deck/seat on the rear.
Also, I got a sweet deal on a 18hp Evinrude long shaft outboard motor.
Will post updates as I go.... Any suggestions are welcome, this is my first rebuild.

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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2016, 23:54 

Joined: 01 May 2013, 14:56
Posts: 14
I did the same thing with an old bass tracker. Added a 15hp tiller.


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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2016, 16:22 
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Joined: 27 Nov 2010, 09:36
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
I like what both of you guys have done with your tinnys.

As far as removing the glue, there are only three things that I can think of that might work. Heat; abrasion; and chemicals.

My heat gun has an attachment that is a scraper. It runs right ahead of the stream of hot air that blasts out. I'd certainly try that if you can get your hands on something similar. Or, just a paint scraper pushed along as you heat the glue.

Abrasion will work. They sell paint removing 3M disks or pads that fit on your drill.
But, I imagine that you will fill many a pad up before getting all of the glue off.

Various types of volatile chemicals (Acetone, for one) will probably dissolve the glue, but you better wear good breathing apparatus to do it that way.

richg99



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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2016, 16:33 
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Location: Houston, TX & Crossville, TN
With regard to "covering up your side braces".... on my new 1652 G3 hull, I looked at those exposed side braces in a different way. I saw STORAGE that I didn't have enough of.

I bought some simple 1x4 by 1/2 inch strips at Lowes. I glued them to the side braces, and added some very valuable storage slots on both sides of the hull.

I used glue, because it seemed to me that if I screwed them on, the screws would penetrate the side braces right at their bent angle. That bent angle appears to be a major part of the strength of the side braces. I didn't want to penetrate the brace at that point. Home Depot's PL adhesive has worked pretty well so far.

Right now in the various cavities created by this project, I have some bottles of water; some bait scent tubes, and a variety of other odds and ends that I wanted in full site. Works for me!

Obviously, if you want rod tubes and other accoutrements, then the open - concept approach may not fit your needs.

Here is the thread that describes exactly how I went about utilizing those braces and the spaces that they created.

richg99

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40470&hilit=added



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