1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

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Wyatt
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Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by Wyatt » 24 Jun 2016, 15:15

Nice eye for detail so far on this build!

Xtremeboats
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Happyrocker02
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Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by Happyrocker02 » 24 Jun 2016, 18:57

What is the best type of wood to use for a transom? And is it okay to put two pieces together? And if you do can you glue it? You seem to know a lot so I'd thought I'd ask


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oakchas
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Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by oakchas » 25 Jun 2016, 00:08

Happyrocker02 wrote:What is the best type of wood to use for a transom? And is it okay to put two pieces together? And if you do can you glue it? You seem to know a lot so I'd thought I'd ask


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I don't know a lot. I'm learning as I go.

That said, I thought about using ipe wood for my transom. But, it's expensive and heavy.

Lowe's, where I work, sells treated lumber that is approved for contact with aluminum.

The original transom was un- treated pine or fir, and lasted 50 years. It was a 2 by 10 or 12 that was cut in the shape of a transom. I used the old one as a template for the replacement I cut out of a treated 2x12.

Do not use treated wood unless it specifically says it is approved for contact with aluminum. Most of it is NOT APPROVED.

Copper is used to treat most lumber for outdoor use. It will react with the aluminum in the boat and cause the aluminum to corrode horribly. If the wood has a green tint, it is probably treated with copper.

I don't know why you would want to glue together a transom? Plywood perhaps? That would give additional strength, I suppose, but the boat I'm doing is rated for a 40 hp motor, and the 2 by material was sufficient.

If I were going to use ply, I would use "glue lam" in nominal 2x whatever width and length you need. And I would use "old timer's" varnish on it. Do a search for the recipe for old timer's wood varnish on this site.

These are only my opinions, as I said, I don't know much, but I'll share what I think and learn as I'm learning and thinking.

Good luck!

oakchas
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Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by oakchas » 25 Jun 2016, 00:22

oakchas wrote:
Happyrocker02 wrote:What is the best type of wood to use for a transom? And is it okay to put two pieces together? And if you do can you glue it? You seem to know a lot so I'd thought I'd ask


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I don't know a lot. I'm learning as I go.

That said, I thought about using ipe wood for my transom. But, it's expensive and heavy.

Lowe's, where I work, sells treated lumber that is approved for contact with aluminum.

The original transom was un- treated pine or fir, and lasted 50 years. It was a 2 by 10 or 12 that was cut in the shape of a transom. I used the old one as a template for the replacement I cut out of a treated 2x12.

Do not use treated wood unless it specifically says it is approved for contact with aluminum. Most of it is NOT APPROVED.

Copper is used to treat most lumber for outdoor use. It will react with the aluminum in the boat and cause the aluminum to corrode horribly. If the wood has a green tint, it is probably treated with copper.

I don't know why you would want to glue together a transom? Plywood perhaps? That would give additional strength, I suppose, but the boat I'm doing is rated for a 40 hp motor, and the 2 by material was sufficient.

If I were going to use ply, I would use "glue lam" in nominal 2x whatever width and length you need. And I would use "old timer's" varnish on it. Do a search for the recipe for old timer's wood varnish on this site.

These are only my opinions, as I said, I don't know much, but I'll share what I think and learn as I'm learning and thinking.

Good luck!
1 part mineral spirits 1 part boiled linseed oil 2 parts spar urethane then 2 coats straight spar urethane... I think that's the "old timer's" recipe.

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lckstckn2smknbrls
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Location: Algonquin Il

1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by lckstckn2smknbrls » 25 Jun 2016, 08:43

The correct formula is,
One part Boiled Linseed oil, one part Spar varnish or Spar urethane, and two parts Mineral spirts.
Plywood is stronger than dimensional lumber. You need a water proof glue like Titebond III.
1971 14' Ward's Sea King Jon Boat / 1983 Mariner 25HP

oakchas
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Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by oakchas » 25 Jun 2016, 15:04

lckstckn2smknbrls wrote:The correct formula is,
One part Boiled Linseed oil, one part Spar varnish or Spar urethane, and two parts Mineral spirts.
Plywood is stronger than dimensional lumber. You need a water proof glue like Titebond III.
Prolly depends on which old timer you ask. ... lol

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Hanr3
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Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by Hanr3 » 26 Jun 2016, 16:15

Happyrocker02 wrote:What is the best type of wood to use for a transom? And is it okay to put two pieces together? And if you do can you glue it? You seem to know a lot so I'd thought I'd ask


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White Oak is the strongest and naturally rot resistant. Sailors have been making boats out of it for centuries. Problem with plywood is voids. You need a marine grade solid plywood with as many layers as you can find. Can you use an inferior grade, yes! The trade off is longevity. If you're going to keep it for 10 years or less, go with plywood. Rest of you're life, go with white oak.

Great build so far.
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lckstckn2smknbrls
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Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by lckstckn2smknbrls » 27 Jun 2016, 10:29

oakchas wrote:
lckstckn2smknbrls wrote:The correct formula is,
One part Boiled Linseed oil, one part Spar varnish or Spar urethane, and two parts Mineral spirts.
Plywood is stronger than dimensional lumber. You need a water proof glue like Titebond III.
Prolly depends on which old timer you ask. ... lol

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My old-timer can beat up your old-timer.
:LOL2:
1971 14' Ward's Sea King Jon Boat / 1983 Mariner 25HP

oakchas
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Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01

Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by oakchas » 27 Jun 2016, 10:43

Old timer's aside... You don't wanna mess with old timer's.... they'll just kill ya.

So, I mowed over the weekend.

mowing dust all over the boat.

sigh

Fortunately, paint was long dry, and scotch-brited... today I was gonna add a coat.

Rain threatens, it's miserable hot and humid, and I had to rinse it down anyway. Instead of painting, I washed and masked. Last two coats of black will go down (above the rivets in the pic) to the mask line. Then I can reverse mask for the gray.
masked.jpg

oakchas
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Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by oakchas » 28 Jun 2016, 12:30

Okay.

Today I rolled on the fourth coat. You've all seen what shiny paint looks like, so no need to post a pic.

Weather permitting, tomorrow I will scotch brite the fourth coat.

Friday, I'll try to do the final coat.

If I'm lucky, I can start on gray next week.

2 months elapsed so far... That's the problem if you're retired, with a part time job, and a honey do list.

doug.davidson.86
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Joined: 13 Jun 2016, 11:54

Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by doug.davidson.86 » 28 Jun 2016, 22:23

I'm going back a bit... What was the process you used to take off the old paint?


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oakchas
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Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01

Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by oakchas » 30 Jun 2016, 06:30

doug.davidson.86 wrote:I'm going back a bit... What was the process you used to take off the old paint?


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I tried chemical strpping. Outdoors, it wasn't working well. Probably flashing off too quickly. So, I used a cup brush (knotted wire) and some flap discs on an angle grinder VERY CAREFULLY.

But, mostly, I used a random orbit sander with 60, 80, 140, 220 grit pads. That left some previous primer and a little bit of paint on the boat in spots.

See here: http://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php ... 81#p411881

And the two posts after it, where you can see the old zinc chromate primer that was left on.

oakchas
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Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by oakchas » 09 Jul 2016, 11:18

Following my method has revealed a finish you can read the newspaper in!

Image

No wait, that's newspaper taped above the reverse mask to avoid gray roller spatter....

According to the Internet, you're supposed to thin 50/50 mineral spirits... if your air bubbles don't self-pop, it's too thick.

I disagree, many fewer air bubbles at all with a 33/66 mix, more paint than mineral spirits. Here's what happened with 1st coat of gray at 50/50.

Image

It's nothing that won't be fixed with some wet sanding and heavier subsequent coats.

Also, coverage is much worse with the 50/50.

tsbrewers
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1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by tsbrewers » 10 Jul 2016, 09:19

Not sure if i missed it, but by the talk, sounds like you are using Rustoleum paint? Or maybe Brightside?

oakchas
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Re: 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project

Post by oakchas » 10 Jul 2016, 09:41

tsbrewers wrote:Not sure if i missed it, but by the talk, sounds like you are using Rustoleum paint? Or maybe Brightside?
Rustoleum. Plain ol' Rustoleum. Nothing special. Stock colors. Gloss oil based enamel.

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