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eaglelodgemaine

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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2016, 11:24 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
FormerParatrooper wrote:
When your done, you can look at it with pride of a job well done and enjoy it more.


That's the goal.

Thanks


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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2016, 11:24 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
derekdiruz wrote:
I like it. Your work is looking great and paying off!

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Thanks!


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PostPosted: 09 Aug 2016, 17:05 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
In case you're wondering what the difference is between rubbing out and polishing... Here's a photo description:

Polishing, first pass:

Image

Rubbing, last pass:

Image

I'm using polishing compound on this first pass of polishing. I'll be using a liquid polishing paste on the second polishing pass before waxing.


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PostPosted: 10 Aug 2016, 20:34 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
Polish and wax done. Boat is on trailer.

Another pic of wax final before it went on the trailer:

Image

Far from perfect, but goodenuf.

Now I can start on the innards.


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PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 10:27 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
Ready to get started on the inside!

I had some minor surgery, so I have to wait a bit before I can crawl around in her and lift plywood, etc. But she's on the trailer and I am champing at the bit!

ready 1.jpg


ready 2.jpg


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PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 11:50 
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Joined: 12 Dec 2014, 14:32
Posts: 1884
Location: New England
oakchas wrote:
Polish and wax done. Boat is on trailer.

Another pic of wax final before it went on the trailer:

Image

FYI, turn your tape measure around!

Seriously, when the Pros detail a boat, they put the ruled tape vertically against the hull and "look" for the number of inches of reflection gained in the surface.

It is a much more reliable indicator of shine than you would believe it to be, so much so that it is a good way to check between cleaning methods or products used! When the Pros at shows or such talk "depth of finish" ... this is what they are alluding to.



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#1) 1st tin rebuild, 18' Lund viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36583
#2) 25' Parker refurb from EMPTY hull http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... p?f=15&t=6
#3) 16' V-tin rebuild viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
#4 Procraft SV14
#5) 16' Starcraft entirely NEW Transom Skins viewtopic.php?f=3&t=37548
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PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 11:59 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
Thanks. I used to detail cars back in the day, so I know of what you speak.

It isn't that important to me. I've already admitted to less orange peel than a Sunkist, more than a Steinway.

It's a roller paint job, in full sun, and horrible heat.

If I were going for concours, I would have done most everything differently.

As it is, it's a 14 foot tin boat. Viewable from 14 feet.

As it was, it was a 14 foot boat. Viewable from 100 feet.

Works for me, and I don't think the fish will judge too harshly.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2016, 10:39 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
oakchas wrote:
Ready to get started on the inside!

I had some minor surgery, so I have to wait a bit before I can crawl around in her and lift plywood, etc. But she's on the trailer and I am champing at the bit!

ready 1.jpg


ready 2.jpg

So, just to do things right for flotation, I weighed the trailer alone, and then with the hull on it.

Trailer weight: 380 lbs.
Trailer and hull: 520 lbs.

A hull weight of 140 lbs.!

That's interesting to me. Hard to believe all that aluminum and 5-7 coats of paint and primer weighs only 140 pounds!

That's light, compared to what I thought it would be.


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PostPosted: 28 Aug 2016, 16:29 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
Okay, so today before the rain hit, I was able to cut the foredeck and the access panel to it.

Image

Just like the one on the new one on the first page of this thread.

The reason it doesn't fit perfectly is that I have to bend the ends in.

The access panel is cut from the top of the old front seat.

I'll be using the rear seat or the middle seat as the rear splash guard/transom tray.

The remaining seat will be cut up for use as a control/switch panel near the captain's seat at the rear. Lights, remote control for anchor winch, bilge and aerator for live well.


Last edited by oakchas on 29 Aug 2016, 05:27, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 28 Aug 2016, 19:04 
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Joined: 31 Jul 2016, 16:15
Posts: 29
Great work! I'm really liking your build. I'm actually building the same boat! I just finished the stripping today. I can't wait to see where you go with it.


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PostPosted: 28 Aug 2016, 21:03 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
DiverJosh82 wrote:
Great work! I'm really liking your build. I'm actually building the same boat! I just finished the stripping today. I can't wait to see where you go with it.

Thanks!

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: 31 Aug 2016, 16:12 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
okay, I just noticed that the first page didn't show what the 1415 outfitter looks like from the stern:

1415 3.jpg


And again from the bow:

1415 pix.jpg


So that gives you an Idea of where I'm headed, and what the build should look similar to when done.

I still can't lift and move stuff over 15#, so I'm measuring and comparing actual measurements to my CAD drawings.


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PostPosted: 31 Aug 2016, 18:08 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
A better fit (with a small HVAC flange bender, pliers, tin snips, and an angle grinder):

Image

Aluminum is pretty easy to work. I'll have to get a bit more creative to bend the rear shelf/ splash plate.


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PostPosted: 01 Sep 2016, 16:23 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
Ya know, it's interesting...

I'm getting closer to carpeting. I've bought the carpet. I've bought carpet pad. (There's that silk purse again, LOL!) Now the pad is from a boat carpet "e-tailer" and, it's approved for double glue down: i.e. glue the pad down, glue the carpet to the pad. Great, right?

Well, it's a polyurethane padding. Will a solvent based adhesive eat it up? Hmmm...

Most solvent based adhesives say not to use it on painted or protected (say, coated with "old timers" boat wood finish) surfaces, because it will eat the protection. Most water based adhesives for marine use (once it's dry, water won't cause it to come unglued), say that if the adhesive doesn't soak into the wood a bit... it won't stick well.

So, this means I have to leave the carpeted side of the plywood untreated. Whichever way I glue the carpet down on it.

That does not please me. Wood rots. It rots slower if protected. Carpet holds moisture, a perfect environment to accelerate rotting.

Aluminum decking is great, but it adds weight without flotation, requiring offset auxiliary flotation.

To heck with it! Full steam ahead!

Plywood!

It'll probably last until the boat is part of my estate, anyway.

Worrying ain't getting the boat built! But it's raining, anyway.


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PostPosted: 03 Sep 2016, 21:56 

Joined: 24 May 2015, 23:01
Posts: 107
Finished the template for th bottom of the foredeck cubby.
Image

Story sticks in foreground.


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